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LOL! That was by design. I was looking for shade.

Too bad your view was blocked by that sweaty fat guy.

gear reduction starter are plug n play. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/p/duralast-starter-16584/860650_0_0

This happened in the VW world as well, particularly Oval window Beetles. Many have said because the cars are "rare", I say BS. Rare means you cant find one without a true hunt. If you want an Oval window Beetle, you can have one heading to your address tomorrow, Ebay, CL, The Samba, etc. S30's are not rare, so what gives. Once both my 70 and 73 are restored and on the road, I really have a hard time believing there is over 6 figures worth of cars in my garage. I sold this 56 in a few minutes of hitting Enter on a VW site.

That's hope (maybe dream) vs reality. I'd bet we've all spent way too much money and would love to have some back.🙏

It's amazing how I spent several summers in the south driving around in cars without AC. I was just happy to have cars that ran decent, and I didn't have to pay for them. I still drive around in the heat without AC in the Z cars, but now it's by choice.

I have 2 different style vacuum bleeders but I still prefer pedal bleeding. I dont know if you've noticed but air can come in around the threads of the bleed screw. That can't happen with pedal bleeding. Fluid can come out but air can't come in

Yeah, didn't include that. I only tried messing with it to see if I can get the idle down which didn't work. Did not have the opportunity to remove the dizzy today sadly. I was able to look at the spark plugs though and confirm the car is running insanely rich for the most part. As for the sound issue I stated I think it might actually be my starter. I went to start the car today and the car made a really loud knock, I legit thought my motor somehow blew up and it made the sound again but less aggressive the second time trying to start it. It started the third time I cranked the car without making any noise. I think the mechanism that moves the starter back away from the flywheel might potentially be getting stuck or something. I am going to replace the starter anyhow since it's one of the few parts on the car I have yet to actually replace or restore. I will update whenever I have time to check timing again or replace starter whichever comes first.

And as Captain Obvious, I'm compelled to point out that resistance readings like what you're taking are dependent on switch positions. By that, I mean... If something like your headlight switch is on, you'll read low resistance from the +12 volt side of the harness to ground, and it's perfectly normal. Same thing goes for the ignition switch. And the inspection lamp, etc. In other words... when you're taking resistance readings between hot and ground, you need to be double dog sure that all the accessories are off and the key is in the OFF position.

Everyone remember just how hot it was out there on the tarmac for the people's choice in Memphis? I went out for lunch with Blue @240260280 and Ms. Blue. We were trying to decide where to go and the answer was "Any place that has air conditioning. Oh... And eat slow!"

Yes, yes!! Exactly what I was thinking

The wire colors tell you a lot of what you need to know. Make sure you download the service manuals. That's where I get a lot of my info from. That page came from the 71 supplement that is posted on this site. If you notice, the connector shapes match up well.

I've been watching the Zs going to auction, and selling on eBay an Craigslist for a little over a year now. When I got sent home for Covid quarrantine last year I spent the time catching up on the Z scene. The dramatic increase in value of these cars astounds me. I have a small collection of S30s, mostly parts cars that were free of very cheap, and guys are pestering me to sell them one or two for crazy money, $5,000 to $10,000. For an duster incomplete rusted shell. It is fascinating to watch the final bid results, and see the fluctuations. Also of note are the cars that come up a second or third time, and either sell for about the same, or less than previously. Also interesting to see a car that is clearly in need of major work go for cubic dollars, and one that is a good to very good condition original fail to meet reserve.

"It's not the heat as much as it the humidity" I hate that saying, hot is hot no matter the adjectives but those new dates are smack dab in the hottest part of our summer. High heat warnings everyday but Barber's is very nice. I'll be at the pool attending via classiczcars.com. Night time is the right time in July and August. We'll have our nightly safety meetings at the host hotel bar area. I can't wait!

Oh Yeah! It was a June scorcher for sure. I had a female rider from Japan at the COTA event. No A/C in the car, she began to suffer heatstroke and we had to move her to a late model car with A/C.

YARB is right. Change them both. For a start if you haven't done the the job before, the first one will take too much time. After that, the second one will take half the time. Also, if one cylinder has failed, there is no reason to expect its twin has much, if any life left.

@Mike. Thanks for you support with the pic and the option on the issue.

hey @James Que this message board has issues with `.heic` images. If I'm correct these are photos that are shot on a iPhone and might be uploaded from a Mac... You'll have to export the image as a `JPEG` so that other forum members can see the image on the website. I've exported the image and attached it below. I'm not familiar with the safety features for a 280z, but isn't there a triggering circuit for that relay that is related to the oil pressure from the sender? There was a similar circuit added to a 260z to prevent the pump from running in the event of an accident. I've also attached the export window in the `Preview` application if you are using `Mac OS`... if not please ignore, just know that the `.heic` images are not visible... `Preview -> File -> Export -> JPEG` @Mike possible to have the media service automatically convert `HEIC` to `JPEG`?

This is very cool technology, here is a link to a post from @Mike a couple of years ago when it was first announced. The video shows the process in a little more detail.

It lets me browse the profile, but pesters me at every turn to log in or create an account. No.

Who needs a website anymore? Me. I'm not on Faceplant. The place is, and almost always has been, a very toxic environment. Too much drama. And it appears Zuckerberg and company are on the hot seat again. Won't be long and the house of Faceplant will crumble. Or not. When you wield the kind of monetary clout that Zuckerberg does, not much can stand in your way. A web presence rocks. Access via a laptop or even better, a desktop with a 27" monitor. My old eyes can't abide those little phone screens. Even with glasses.

"Ran great when parked over 35 years ago." https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/london/1971-datsun-240z-number-matching/1589333102

Might as well just buy a Vette, I'm all for modifying but I would never pretend I could design a better looking exterior. It's like Ketchup on Filet Mignon.

Perfect. That means we're doing it right. So to your final question about vacuum bleeding vs. pressure bleeding... Again, I'm no expert on the topic, but I would suggest pressure bleeding over vacuum bleeding for a couple reasons. First, I believe you can generate a whooooole lot higher pressure differential with the master cylinder. I didn't research it, but I would expect that when you push the pedal hard, you can generate hundred(s?) of PSI in the lines. But if you're drawing a vacuum, the max vacuum you can achieve is less than one atmosphere (less than 15 psi). So for pressure bleeding, your pushing fluid through the lines with hundred(s) or PSI, but with vacuum bleeding, your pulling fluid through the lines with less than 15. Seems you would be much more likely to generate that bubble-free "slug" of fast moving fluid if you're using a higher pressure differential. Second, the seals used in the system are designed to keep pressure IN, not keep pressure OUT. All the seals are angled in such a way as to designate which side is the high pressure side and which is the low pressure side. The seals are all designed to expand outward and provide more sealing force when the pressure behind them increases. I've run the exact same scenario that Zed Head did (bleeding a clutch slave cylinder) and when I released the slave plunger, it pulled air past the seal back into the fluid side. So either he got lucky, or I got unlucky, but what worked for him did not work for me. I had to pressure bleed because the vacuum generated when I released the slave plunger allowed air in faster than it would pull fresh fluid from the clutch master.

I am the bubble. I am the bubble. I am the bubble... Nope. Didn't help. I guess I'm just not Zen enough. 😝

The picture reminds me of another way to bleed cylinders - work the system in reverse, from the end. I did that on the clutch slave cylinder. You can open the bleed screw and push the piston backward with finger pressure. That drives the fluid out of the bleed hole, then when you close the bleed screw, it pulls new fluid in from the reservoir. You can also unbolt the cylinder so that it has the screw hole oriented upward. This is in the same vein as pressure versus vacuum versus mechanical.