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Just another point to consider.........I would definitely go with the SU’s to break in a new engine. One of the worst things that you can do with a break-in is to wash out the rings with too much gas. A scored cylinder is the result and will ruin an engine.

The distributor rotates pretty easy, no resistance there. so if you didn't hold the distributor rotor, I think there's every chance that its not at the same timing it was. I mean, all you did was take off and refit the oil pump and distributor timing shaft, and now it idles considerably higher. timing. and its easy to prove one way or another.

Patcon......I initially fire up a new engine and bring it up to 2000 to 2500 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes. After that initial run, check timing and look for leaks and then I try to get it on the road (usually hoodless). I’m with you in that I run her up to about 3000 to 4000 rpm and let off (drag her down) over and over a dozen or so times. This back-pressure is supposed to force the rings out snug against the cylinder walls. I try to put 50 miles on her, check for any leaks and then gradually take her up more and more aggressive. After 100 miles, you can pretty much play games with her. All IMO......Guy

Focus on my Zs again. I lived and breathed them for 10 years then things changed and I lost my "inspiration".

Or even this.... 😉

“This Datsun has a cam in it” Um, it ain’t a rotary engine, so I hope it has something to push the valves open.

I know what that is like buddy. I was so Z oriented for so long. Then I bought the Roadster and that consumed me as well. After my kids sports started the cars had to take a back seat for a while. We had some illnesses in the family and picked up a new puppy and things just kept snowballing. I am happy to start the Z rolling around again and get that beautiful hood some sunshine. Want to do some projects that have been lingering in my mind. Should probably put in a new clutch eventually, but the current one is still doing the job. Want to up my carbs to 45 DCOE's instead of 40's, but that is a big investment to JUST try it out. Life does get in the way of the Z's but eventually when the dust settles they just wait for us. That next amazing drive is just around the corner.

It does not have the original stock profile camshaft.

Browsing on Motor Sport Auto and saw that they have relabeled their red links to the proper brown, and it looks like they have also derated them to the proper amperage. Yay! Old Z wiring is safer now. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4329 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336

Put the head gasket against the block and mark to un-shroud . I’d use a 1” drum sander with 80 grit in your cordless drill to open up the chamber . CC-ing the chambers would be easy . Check out the short side radius on all ports - they will need work. I’d take a good wack off the mating surface . Notch the cylinder bores to clear larger valves . Get a BIG cam and drive it like you stole it .

You can get a new connector for the flasher: https://vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors Specifically https://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/141

That's what I was referring to in post #4. Now here's what I suggest. Get some round wire brushes like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Stainless-Bristle-PMD-Products/dp/B007S91ND4 or this: https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-brush-set-6-pc-61923.html Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the fuses from the fusebox. Note what rating fuse goes where Run the wire brushes on the insides of the fuse holders. Use some canned air to blow out any dust. Replace the fuses. Replace the negative cable. Test. Corrosion in your fusebox can limit the available current in a circuit.

I have the same problem with Pinterest and it's gotten to the point where sometimes I add -pinterest to the search to try and filter out Pinterest results.

Both are on Facebook and home based Datsun guys. All my dealings were via FB, FB Messenger, and texts. Who needs a website anymore?

Oiling can be bad for the clocks

I tip on oil pump, don't remove the spindle, just remove the dizzy so you can grab the top of the spindle with something (dont go beast mode on this, you dont want to damage just keep in from dropping). then unbolt and remove the pump. install by looking rotating the pump drive so it can line up with the spindle that is still in the engine.

Do you still have your old pump? Put it back and start it and listen did it change anything then you have eliminated the pump as the issue

I'm with ya! I bought mine (HLS30-08215) in 2003 (I think) figuring it was a 5 year project, then the following year we had our first kid. Well I spent years collecting parts and more Z cars and never putting any work into any of them until last year (thank you COVID, and my son for encouraging me and showing an interest himself). Kids and life got in the way for a while. I'm not sure I see anything in your pix that I need or must have at the moment (or that I think I may need in the future). There's certainly stuff I could pick up and if it were cheap enough I might, though want to keep focused on getting at least one of these Zs back on the road soon. 😉

@AK260I wouldn’t worry too much about running your motor with SU’s. I run both of my 3.1 stroker motors with SM needle SU’s with no problem through the range. Eiji and I race each other in the quarter mile once or twice a year. Earlier this year my SU powered 3.1 won by .25 seconds vs his triple sidedrafts. He ran a heavier 280Zx…….we race again on November 6th……….bragging rights till Spring of 22…LOL

Agreed chap! My buddy did go with his SUs and we got them tuned right pretty quickly. It produced excellent power below the 4k rev limiter ceiling on the first drive, so he's going to use them for the first 1000 miles and send the car with the triples to the RR once the run-in period is completed. With the AFR sensor / gauge installed, we should be able to find a needle in my collection that is rich enough to fuel it sufficiently further up the rev range. On that note, to prove that the SUs can deliver enough fuel for over 230bhp to 6.6Krpm, I dropped in super rich KV needles into mine and the carbs can hit high 10s on the AFR at 6K rpm on a third gear pull - clearly over-rich, but point made! With that argument out of the way, there is only the question of flow, which his OERs will clearly address in good time. The beauty of going this way is that he will now have a direct comparison for SUs v DCOE (for the sake of scientific research 😛 and my personal curiosity). This way he will not wonder if he should have just kept the SUs, he will know through real-world driving experiences, where the SUs work best and where the DCOEs bring the engine to life even more. I'm personally a die-hard SU man for a road car, but with this nearly 3.0 engine being something quite special, even I have to concede that it needs the extra flow and sound track of the triples. But equally, I want to see what they do to the engine's current scintillating pull between 2-4Krpm - where we spend a lot of time in 2nd /3rd around the UK's fun twisty country roads - and it's still not "on cam" at that point!!! Can't wait to see what it will do between 4-7K. I've seen too many dyno charts of triples showing a rise in torque at 2/2.5k only to drop off quite noticeably until 4K where they come to life and produce great power / fuel atomisation. I'm hoping with some proper tuning and choke sizing, he can have the best of all worlds. Either way, that engine needs triples or Efi to give its full potential.

Here you go Mart.

lapriser was so kind to send me his 3D models. I wanted to see how this setup looks like if you use the Insulated Spring Seat & Strut Mount Set from MSA. It looks like a sleeve without the flange would help to move the bump stop further upwards.

fast crickets are the secret to more HP. Keep that a secret you are not supposed to tell people about the fast crickets.

That'll get some big number I think. Very nice car.

Here's some good stuff with good pics too. Go back on this link to the main page then click on "engine". @240260280 is the man! He put this together from info on his computer and his buddies help. It's the 1st page I go to when I need help. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/headporting/index.htm

@dhp123166 I got the turn signals working. Thank you very much for all of your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now.

I got the turn signals working. Thank you everyone for your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now.

I think Banzai sells those as an assembly.

I unshroud the valves on all the L series engines I build. When I get home I’ll take a picture and post it here. I use a hard roll on a die grinder to cut the relief. I take it down to just above the mark where the piston ring stops traveling upwards, and out to the mark on the cylinder block deck where the head gasket opening is.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-CB211-15-RP-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B009WQPC06/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=mini+fuse+circuit+breaker&qid=1634236907&sr=8-9

Hello To All. . . Getting a little further along and with the E-31 head. Stainless Spirit Datsun valves are here. Super nice. Can anyone refer me to any older existing posts that get into suggested modifications to this head? I've seen oil spray bar, cam oil circulation changes and relieving the cylinder wall for the bigger valves. Are there any older posts that go into detail on these mods. Photos are always good too. Thanks!!