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That settles it. We'll establish the CZC base camp at Cliff's place. 😉

Dang it. I posted this first in the 510 Open Discussions. The rumor mill was right. ZCON 2022 will be in September in Birmingham, AL. I hope I'll be paying more attention when I'm prepping my Z than I did in selecting the forum...

..... It was in a repurposed school house... .... in the boys room. DISCLAIMER: This has been the ONLY time I have taken pictures in the bathroom. I have no idea what was painted on the women's restroom walls. You'll have to ask @Captain Obvious 🤣

... a hybrid wins 2021 24 hours of Le Mans. https://www.24h-lemans.com/en/news/toyota-triumphs-in-the-2021-24-hours-of-le-mans-55530

Wally, This recent thread should cover all of your questions:

Those amp clamps are handy. I’ve got one with BlueTooth I bought it when I went through swapping out 4 remanned alternators into my 4Runner. Yes the quality of remanufactured parts now is chit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are trying for Barber. Talledega Grand Prix is the backup plan. I can tell you that getting the track commitment is one of the most difficult parts of organizing the event. The next most difficult is finding an appropriate locations for the car shows. For instance, for 2018, we approached Chateau Elan for the judged car show (and convention hotel), and they basically said, "Oh Hell F'n NO!" Fortunately for us, Z1 Motorsports had relationships with Road Atlanta and the venue for the People's Choice shows. Anyway, I hope to see a lot of you guys in B'ham.

I second Cliff’s place as the official CZCC ZCON 2022 base camp. Cliff you can give the CZCC Tech Tips Lectures. We’ll bring the beer and food if you do the cooking? [emoji1787] Looks like I got over a year now to get my car road worth of a trip like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lift the car at the center of the front cross member, the one the engine sits on then put a stand on either side of the jack, that will give you lots of room to get in from the sides.

Update: I removed the carbs and had a good look at the linkages. There were multiple things wrong: 1. the choke cable was indeed too tight and was preventing the spring to get rid of the play and keeping the nozzle completely up. 2. a wrong bend in connecting bar A resulted in the sticky nozzle situation. After some time I was able to bend it in a fashion that a) the nozzle stays up b) the nozzle is not sticky c) both nozzles move the same amount 3. had a look at the connection rod to the butterfly and bend it to match the specs in the service manual (between 0.59-0.69mm butterfly opening on max choke) Next step is to refit the carbs and get the choke cables on a little bit more loose then the last time. The original plan was to just swap the SM needles to SB needles to see if i can lean out the idle (had some filthy rich idle hot @10.5 while cruising @16+) a little bit while keeping a richer mixture at full throttle and cruise - lets see if that works out. Thanks again for the input and the reassurance that there was nothing wrong with the linkage.

Last one for the night... This is me and Bruce @Captain Obvious taking a selfie in the gift shop at Pike's Peak I'm the one wearing the mask.

Finally got to wear my shirt! It was given to me from a friend but I just now saw their webpage... https://modifiedracewear.com/

Bruce talked to the manager? owner? somebody behind the bar that informed him the art work was done by art students (when the school was still a school) and was not painted over when the brewery opened. Bristol Brewery or something like that. Too many breweries, too little time....

WTF?

September or even better October are really good down here. No humidity no hot temps. The time falls back at the end of October so let's hope it's before then. I wear shorts until Halloween and maybe even closer to Thanksgiving. Southern hospitality is gonna be great! I know the hotels that rent by the hour. Great food just like Memphis and Atlanta. Wayne you know you can stay at the liquidanb.

As @SteveJ noted, the date has not been nailed down.

They are right. European mainland countries including Germany, France, NL, Belgium and Portugal, then UK, Australia, NZ and others still had carburettors on their S30-series Z models through 1978. They had choke knobs.

Thanks for the link. I got a chuckle from the Nissan text at the bottom - a choke knob for a FI car???: Fits 260Z, 280Z This product fits 5 vehicle variants. Datsun: 2 models, 5 variants between 1974 and 1978.

@DC871F I agree - the Monte Carlo bumper lends such a nice look to the Z. Shoot me a PM - I'd love to come help you put it all together, and it'd be a good way to prepare myself for making my own. Plus, I'd finally get to meet another Z enthusiast in person! I live about an hour out of Jacksonville.

My research corresponds to what @CanTechZfound.

Still shows available on the Canadian Nissan site. I also agree 260Z and yes I see the superseded numbers N3501 and N3601

Engine cross member just got back from powder coating. $55 total strip, treat and then powder coat it satin black. Wish I too a before pic. Looked terrible! Got all the suspension parts there now. Will be ready on Monday. Still waiting on my Springs from Whitehead ? I hope he comes through! I put the car on a couple home built rolling dollies. (Each is rated at 1000 lbs and the boards are screws together so to snuggle the frame rails) I’ll push the car out of the garage tomorrow and degrease and power wash the engine bay and front wheel wells before some spot paint and cosmetic rust clean up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is what I found on a google search, seems to be a newer part number that supersedes the 18415-N3601 in the 1979 parts book https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Datsun__/Knob-Choke/89430726/18415-N3500.html

Great topic. I am doing this as well on my 73 restoration, and didnt realize until now that there was a name for this. I have been looking at my bumper for months and have decided I will mount the bumper, then measure and cut and weld the uprights while mounted on the car. I plan to use some hefty flat bars for the verticals and when its all together have it all chromed. I have some vintage NOS Hella clear lamps and two vintage amber lamps to to have 4 lamps across the front. I also plan on using the stock over rider as well. Ever since seeing the rally cars from back in the day, I thought those bumpers were the coolest thing. The low profile of the hood and bumper arrangement lend nicely to tuck the lamps in there for a daily driver.

Firstly, you never lift a Z using the frame rails under the floors - even if they were brand new. Secondly, Whenever possible use Granny's advice and lift the front using that big plate in the center of the front crossmember. Thirdly, When using a floor jack (not a scissor jack, not a bottle jack), we lift the differential in the rear and then place jack stands. There are a few "hard points" in the rear to help. Fourthly, The 280's added a lot more heft to the unibody and were strengthened in specific spots underneath (meaning: there are big beefy steel plates under there that the earlier Z's either didn't have - or were not as strong). You should learn those spots, they will help with lifting and supporting if you need to work underneath. Fifthly, be absolutely certain of your jack stands if you're working to replace the transmission fluid. In most cases both the fill plug and drain plug have been over-tightened and many people have struggled to get them loose. That means you're putting a lot of torque into it, may having to use a "cheater" for leverage - you don't want the Z to come down on you while you're under there. Sixthly, When you put the plugs back in, don't over-tighten them! There is no pressure on the fluid inside. Use Teflon tape (or anti-seize) on the threads and only tighten them to snug. You just want them just tight enough so that they don't leak - and done.

Yay! They'll be driving down highway 411 from the North. 2 blocks from my house.

Do you have a neighbour or a friend you could borough a hydraulic jack and some stands from?

yes 1971. I did bend upward. I did have to make some "Adjustments" to get them to fit snugly but its all on tight now. The hole was too high so i made a new hole lower.

I hope this clears up some confusion about which wire goes where.

Nissan's 240Z ignition wiring is kind of confusing. If the diagram is correct it's an odd parallel circuit with two power wires to the tach. One through the resistor and one direct. One must be Start and one must be Run. Anyway, they both end up as Black/white stripe at the coil positive. Green/white stripe at the tach gets powered either through the resistor or directly. The diagram is confusing because Run is Black/white stripe at the switch, then converts to Green/white stripe after the resistor, then is back to Black/white stripe after the tach. So, at the tach Green/white stripe should have power during Start and Run. If you test both and only one works you might find that the junction of the two is no longer joined. I think the above is correct I rewrote it a few times...

Here's an example of a self-built replica 'Drop Bumper' and lights, on one of the VZ Program cars which went to Japan. I've seen the car in person and it is very well done:

Just for completeness sake: Nuts and washers that hold down the footrest are still available at nissan (Just got mine today): And while trying to find a drawing or any information in the manuals how and especially where to exactly install it (where to drill the holes), all i could find was this information in the Japanese "introduction of the S30" Service bulletin just explaining the function of the footrest and which japanese models it was installed and which ones had it as an option: I'm not sure if such a document exists, and there are plenty of pictures and factory equipped cars to get the measures from, But if anybody has an official installation manual or official drwaing with (or without) measures, that would be great. Just to get it perfect.