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50% ATF 50% Acetone

I will add that in speaking with Bruce at Z-Therapy about this, that a worn jet tube or the nozzle is actually very un-common, at least to the point of being a vacuum leak.

Ooofffta!!!

So most of the regulars on the forum know I rebuilt an L-28 last year. With all sort of reasons for delaying the install I’m now about ready to do this. I wanted to start a thread to help lead me though any unknowns or challenges I’m bound to face on this next big task. To get everyone up to speed, the current engine has all sorts of problems that pushed me to just do a rebuild with a ZX motor I got at a salvage yard. Here are the bigs three items wrong with the current engine. 1. Rusted Core Plugs, so rusted that coolant leaked pretty bad. I had a temp fix of filling the rusted out holes with JB weld. It’s actually held. 2. Serious timing changing slap (needs a new chain) 3. Bad oil leak. Then you have lots of little things like broken valve cover bolts etc.. So the new engine is pretty much ready to go . Staying EFI for now, got a non-EGR intake, new injectors and a new billet fuel rail. Engine was a total top to bottom rebuild. Thats the back story. I’m about 10 days from actual engine removal. I have to acquire an engine hoist and get any other parts that will stop the install. So I want to ask the members here to give me some insights of things I might be overlooking and maybe some lessons learned. Places people have problems, special tools I might need and or things people screw up. I plan to spend about a week with the engine out, cleaning and preparing the engine bay. I also plan to replace ball joints and suspension rubber then. If anyone has tips and/or tricks to help me through this (doing it mostly alone with a little help from a buddy when I hoist and re-install). Please share. I’ll post updates on this thread as I work through this. Thanks! Here is the old and new engine pics taken today.

Me too!! The only difference is I went for a 2+2 turbo exedy clutch to hold the extra torque. Absolutely love the effect of the fidanza!

I have the Fidanza flywheel/Excedy OEM clutch on my high(er) compression F54 with a .480 lift cam. It's great. And holds just fine. I don't have too much in the way of sound deadening in my car, so I noticed a little more noise from the transmission with the lightened flywheel. But after a week or so, I stopped noticing it.

Kroil. Amazon

Of course your health care is your personal choice, but one of the points I've been trying to make previously is that the info you get in order to make your choice should come from reputable sources. If you're getting your vaccine guidance from some guy on the internet (like that fear mongering youtube video), then I think you should seek more reputable guidance. If you're getting your vaccine advice from a Facebook friend, then I think you should seek more reputable guidance. Call your doctor and ask them. Simple as that. Ask your doctor what they think. Ask them about the risks of getting a vaccine and the risks of not getting it. Ask them if they recommend getting it or not. Ask your doctor about the bad things you've heard like tracking chips and sterility. Ask them what they think about those risks. Don't listen to me. Don't listen to Facebook. Don't listen to Youtube. Don't listen to MSNBC. Don't listen to FOX. Don't listen to that wacky "news" site run by the religious cult from China. Don't listen to internet "news" from someone who calls themselves "the first port of call for the argumentative Indian." Call your doctor. YOUR doctor. Call your doctor and ask. Call them and use their guidance to form an opinion that isn't fed to you by some guy on the internet. I've been struggling with figuring out how to put that into words.

Last Wednesday, I completed the final phase of my fresh motor rebuild with the AC system upgrade to a new Vintage Air Sanden 508 compressor and replacement of the air drier. (my system was already converted to r134a by Nissan years ago) All went well, drew down a vacuum and let it sit overnight - no leaks, charged the system with 27oz of r134a, and now have 42 F air out the vents. Below are the original and new flex line hoses I needed to complete the hookup to the new compressor. Parts needed are 2' of number 8 and number 10 ac hose, a #8 135 degree o-ring fitting with service port on left, #10 135 degree o-ring fitting with port on right, 90 degree #8 flare fitting, and a straight #8 step up to #10 fitting. I was able to use the hydraulic crimper at the local Prairie Grove auto parts store. After cutting the hoses to size and test fitting, be sure to mark the clocking on the 90 degree line at both ends before crimping. The AC lines are not very twistable. Only other issue is I extended the compressor clutch wire about a foot in length as it was just long enough to reach the stock wiring connection and wanted a cleaner look to the wiring. Below is the air drier mounted in the stock bracket with new switch. Compressor mounted and running with stock belt and tension provided by stock idler adjuster. Note the reason for the left / right 135 degree compressor fittings. Could not clock the compressor 90 degrees for better access as the low side fitting comes too close to the frame rail in that position.

If you are using a Fidnaza flywheel it wont make any difference which pressure plate you use. Both the 225mm and 240mm will fit the Fidnaza flywheel. The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts, but I have heard only 6 are used on the Fidnaza flywheel. I am using a 280ZX 2+2 (240mm) lightened flywheel to about 16lbs and a stansard 240mm clutch. Works great and has a light feel.

Z Across America

Just made a deal for front and rear bumperettes in excellent condition. Thanks Jim

Not as bad as I thought. May be time for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBAO7DV/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=A2W3M6PH7V4H54&psc=1

To my understanding a smaller diameter clutch will bite/engage harder because of the reduced surface area and mass. With the larger clutch you retain the engaging characteristics to be closer to "OEM" yet are able to get the benefit of a lighter flywheel (better throttle response). I'm quite happy with the setup. perhaps others can chime in....

Kroil is one of the best commercially available penetrating oils. You can get it as a spray or liquid in a can.

Yeah I have a build thread on another Z car forum as well. Always happy to share pics. Helps me stay motivated.

You're probably right, looks like a nice Z other than the doctored block numbers and 9-10 yrs ago almost no one would have cared.

Thank you Zed Head for the suggestion. That will be my next step if the turn signal repairs do not fully resolve the problem. Upon disassembly of the turn signal switch I discovered the bearing out of place, which melted part of the bearing housing containing the spring. I cleaned the switch, reassemble it and installed it again. Brake lights and turn signals worked on one side, but not the other. The switch also did not operate correctly. Tomorrow I will take my time fixing it and utilizing parts from a spare switch. Will provide an update tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for all your inputs. I’m not super admit about the number of owners. Just something I was thinking about and didn’t know if there was an easy way to find out but does sound like it. No worries at the end of the day I’m just glad to own one of these awesome cars! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the cars I worked on this winter have an older set of Z-Therapy rebuilds on it, so when I got to the point of putting the carbs back on, I didn’t look too closely for problems. But as I was syncing and setting up mixture etc, the engine would randomly change idle, always upward and sit there unstable as hell. Blip the throttle, fool with the choke and it would settle down. Then off it would go again with very little provocation. Finally realized I was just grazing the little fuel hose on the bottom with a tool or finger while working on them, it would set the idle off on one of its fits. What I was doing was shifting the nozzle around in its tube, creating clearance and a vacuum leak when it sat just so. I’m waiting for new nozzles from Z-therapy now, should solve the issue. The back carb is much better and doesn’t exhibit this behavior. Other carb sets I have laying around, from which I was going to snitch parts, are all worse. The nozzles literally rattle around in the tube. So expand your mantra when you help yourself or others decide on SU quality and vacuum leaks. It’s not just them shafts that get worn.

Definitely - a fire extinguisher was one of the first things I bought when I got the car years ago haha