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You know Mike, in some ways, I find these demos are the Darwinian course of life! Honestly, I am dumbfounded when I see things like this, in light of what is actually happening. I say let these people huddle, kiss, cuddle. Let them have a Bloody big orgy and catch the virus. They have no other way to understand the gravity of the situation. Having grown up in and through the over-throw of the Shah and the initiation of the Islamic republic of Iran, I tend to have a different perspective on life. We went from 5 channels to 2 - Islamic channel and war news channel, both equally as depressing. Music, banned. Chess / backgammon (the national pass time), banned! Comedy, banned. Men looking smart, banned. Women showing hair, banned. Alcohol, guess what, banned and so on. Any fraction of enjoyment was banned and punishable by lashes in the street. There were armed skirmishes in the streets at night - on the way to school we used to collect and compare bullet shells. 48 hour queues for fuel, 24 hours for bread, food rationing etc.Nightly bombings of our cities by Iraq with no end in sight. Now look at where “we” are today: there is an invisible enemy that doesn’t care about politics, race or social status. So we are asked for our own safety to stay in our safe comfortable homes with Netflix etc, internet and social order around us! We can walk freely with just a simple mask to protect us and others. We can have food delivered to our doors without any hardship or shortage. There is a vaccine being rolled out at lightening speed that marks the light at the end of the tunnel. Is there really that much to protest about? So what if you can’t drink your beer with your mates iINSIDE a pub for 18 months? The biggest suffering of my countrymen complaining about this situation is: having to wear a mask, socialising a little less, drinking at home or outside in a socially distanced manner for just a small “moment” of their entire lives! Yes it’s tough but at least we’re not in India or other places where it’s completely out of control with no end in sight! IMHO the British have genuinely nothing of import to protest about.

You know every time I see someone whining about what amounts to be an inconvenience, for example having to wear a mask, I am reminded of one of the basic laws of physics , Nature abhors a Vacuum. For some people who don't have enough real problems in their lives, creating problems out of thin air helps fill that void for them.

Let's see... I think that would be 2 to the sixth power, or 64 different combinations. So happy hunting! LOL. In reality, I doubt that the configuration at one end of a shaft would have much impact on what's going on at the other, and I also doubt that what's going on with one shaft would have much impact on any of the other shafts. So if those assumptions are true, you could narrow it down to three sets of four combinations, or 12. I was going to suggest that the answer was 42 and just leave it at that...

I agree with Chas. The Nissan joints come with the 7 sets of snap rings and are expensive, around $90 a pop as I remember.... As a alternative, you could get @Captain Obviousto calculate the mathematical number of variations of switching the yokes and joints around one at a time.

I wear underwear. Why? I just do. They keep things in.

Alright did some work and got some results. I had a three screw su carb butterfly assembly so I used that to replace my messed up one. Worried that this might cause an air leak on the sides of the carb because it felt slippery. Linkages should be fine because I removed all the brass pieces off the 3 screw and used the 4 screw linkage pieces. I only used the chrome piece that holds the butterfly. Set the floats to 14mm in the front and 16mm in the back. Had to set the idle air screw to 3 turns. Only way it would start. RPM rises slowly so there is an air leak somewhere. I think the issue with the front carb not having enough fuel was due to an air leak like you all said. I took the manifold off and the manifold had bits and pieces of old gasket which I guess I forgot to take off when I put on the new gasket. Genius. The manifold was filled with fuel but it wasn't all going into the engine. You could see the ways it was escaping on the gasket. Just have to tighten the intake nuts a little more to stop the vacuum leak. I haven't tried fine tuning just yet because my neighborhood is complaining about the smell. Ill keep you all posted.

Re: the people protesting vaccine measures. A person is smart. People are dumb, panicky dangerous animals and you know it. (Tommy Lee Jones, Men in Black.) https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20160113-are-your-opinions-really-your-own

How about some of these to keep the “look” clean!? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-1-8-NPT-To-1-4-Barb-Adapter-Adaptor-Fitting-Aluminum-Alloy-Silver-/332753399792 I vexed over this one for many years as I too like the look and sound. However I discounted it on the basis of heat and performance loss due to sucking in hot air. Do yourself a favour and improve the heat shielding while you are at it. If your state allows it, pipe the crank case vent to a catch tank! That way you aren’t contaminating your intake charge or carbs with the crud / sulphurous juices that collect in mine! Also, not putting you off, this is a great read for info. You may wish to duct some cool air to them - I’m going to do the same experiment on mine once I get my arm out of the sling (quite a dramatic fall off the bicycle on the way to my Covid jab! Oh the irony ). “Recently I have been measuring under bonnet temperatures. My car is a 1985 V12 coupe with the cruise bellows removed, good aircon which is on all the time, and with the cooling system in top condition. Additionally it has a slot in the front bumper to admit air straight into the radiator stack, with the horns also moved out of the way. I have NO foam round the radiator and a separate transmission cooler. Therefore the airflow into my engine bay is far better than standard. I have recently purchased a digital measuring device that runs two channels to a unit in the car. One sensor is strapped to the rear of the engine just aft of the capstan, one to the front, just behind the aircon compressor, both are suspended in the air about 2 inches below the bonnet. These are the results so far at ambient 27 degrees C, aircon on, 12 inch aftermarket electric auxiliary fan on (replacing OEM auxiliary fan). Water temps remained stable and well below 90 C at all times in these tests: On the move above 40 MPH the front temp is about 56 C; the rear is about 52 C On the move below 40 MPH front temp rises to about 60 C and rear to about 56 C Once stopped, engine off, bonnet closed, both temps rise to 80 to 82 C immediately. These temperatures do NOT fall significantly after ONE HOUR if the bonnet stays closed. An open bonnet immediately reduces air temps to about 50 C. Even with the bonnet left open for an hour, air temps at the sensor are still 46 C On the move again temperatures drop to under 60 within a mile or two. If the main electric fan is manually switched on (it does not trigger on my car until a 90 C water pump inlet temp), temperatures drop slightly faster. At rest, aircon on, engine on, auxiliary and main electric fan on: At rest after a run, simulating a traffic hold up, front air temp climbs very fast to 70 - 72 C. Rear 4 C lower. Water temps remain stable, possibly dropping a touch. The extra air temp I attribute to the main fan pulling large volumes of air through the rad to keep the water temps stable, and thus extracting substantially more heat from the coolant, while air is not being extracted from the engine bay as well as it is when on the move. In fact, at rest air temps climb when the main fan is activated, though water temps fall. Conclusions: The front of the engine bay is normally hotter than the rear. The air temperatures under the bonnet on the move are, at about 60 C, not excessive. Therefore louvres are not necessary to preserve reasonable on the move under bonnet temperatures Cold air intakes are definitely worth it as they reduce intake temps to ambient (ie 33 C lower than under bonnet air temps). At rest, engine off, under bonnet temps rise very fast to a high, loom-cooking and rubber component-cooking level (80 to 83 C). Opening the bonnet after you stop WILL definitely substantially help preserve the wiring loom and all rubber components from heat damage. Louvres would greatly reduce under bonnet temps once the vehicle is stopped. I will repeat these tests when (if) we get a day with ambient temps over 30 C. I attached temperature strips to the oil sump, oil filter, oil cooler in, oil cooler out pipes and A bank cam cover at the front top. Oil temps showed a maximum of 85 C throughout the oil system, including the oil cooler inlet, except for the oil cooler outlet which was 77 C. My car has the bypass oil cooler system. From these temps I conclude that the bypass system does indeed cool the oil efficiently and that there is plenty of flow though it - if not the oil temps would not be the same as the sump and oil filter. The can cover temperature maximum showed 95C. All these temperatures are well within the oil's correct working temperature range (Shell Helix 100% synthetic 5W 40).”

LOL. My Barracuda was in the shop, so I was in a rented Stingray. And it was overheating. So I pulled into a Shell station.....

I think that you've made the correct decision. There was something wrong with that car. I also think that there's been collision damage. Rust repair for Z's is not easy, but there is a lot of great guidance available for DIY-ers. Conversely, you may observe that there is virtually zero guidance available online -- on this site, or anywhere else -- for home garage correction of collision damage. Worse still, it can take some careful inspection to spot collision damage.

It's pretty interesting seeing each country's citizens react differently to covid. Most of my family come from Montenegro in Eastern Europe. For a long time there weren't any cases of covid in Montenegro. I believe it was the last country in Europe to report a case. Either there weren't any cases or the technological backwards Montenegrins couldn't care. According to my father who was over there during the outbreak, a family from New York came to go to a funeral in his village and gave everyone Covid. Most of my dads older friends died. Interestingly enough everyone that wore a mask didn't get sick. After that it went all around town and eventually though the country. Another interesting aspect of it all was the absolutely no care given attitude from the Montenegrins. They just continued to go on with their lives. This attitude stems from two different trains of thought that all Montenegrins encompass. Their hardheadedness and their laziness. Its a joke in Eastern Europe that no one is lazier than a Montenegrin. My grandma got sick, went to the hospital, got tested, came back positive, and her response to it all? "Oh well I die I die" and she continued on her life smoking 2 packs of Marlboro gold at 76 after suffering two strokes, a heart attack, and her loss of vision. She surprisingly lived and got over covid in about a week and a half.

I get my #2 Moderna May 13 and then I'll quit masking, they stink like $^!# or maybe that's just my breathe? Anyhow now I'm gonna have to start shaving again and that was a nice break from normal life for me. I most definitely will continue washing my hands, that's something I've always been freaky about so no change there. I can see the light at other end finally I just hope it stays lit. Thank you all again for putting up with my crazy arse.

Here you go, law abiding citizens.... CDC and the White House says you can now go unmasked outside. A light at the end of the tunnel perhaps? ------------ Dated Apr. 27, 2021 Fully vaccinated Americans don’t need to wear a mask outside, except in crowded settings, under new guidelines released Tuesday by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. During a White House briefing, public health officials said fully vaccinated individuals can unmask while walking, running, hiking, or biking outdoors alone or with members of their household. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/vaccines/fully-vaccinated-guidance.html

If I wrote a Z book it would contain all the dumb things I've tried and failed at or worse injured myself than helpful tips. Hmm. maybe combining both subjects, like, when you blow the caliper pistons out with air, after the first one comes out, DON'T stick your hand in the caliper to block air from escaping out of the open cylinder. A hand is an effective method to facilitate the removal of the other piston but the rest of the brake job is very slow and painful.

That's good progress!

Or lightly coat the part with grease, press it onto the gasket material and cut off the unstained parts.

You're who I learned that from! Take that elbow off and lay it on whatever you choose and lightly tap an impression on the material. Cut it out with an exacto knife and a hole punch.

Well, one of you called it. There was another timing mark on the crankshaft pulley that we found after disassembling the front of the motor. We verified tdc and all mechanical timing marks where they should be, put it back together and the second timing mark was on 0 at TDC. We put everything back together after I rebuilt the carbs again and she fired right up. Problem is she won't idle on her own and after running for a bit she stalls and won't restart unless we hold the pistons in the carbs up. They are SU carbs as I pulled the Hitachi's shortly after I bought it and replaced them with the SU's. So, asking for more input. I assume I will need to adjust the fuel dials underneath the carbs so should I take them downward to allow more fuel or tighten them to restrict the fuel? Also, might I also need to make some adjustments on the linkage or tops of the carbs?

They also sell cut a gasket material at most parts stores

Yep on the cleaning. Replaced the main ground strap. Hooked up the dangling lead. Checked the fusible links. Car started right up. The connection at the fuel pump is loose so I need to fix it. Thanks

I've used a cereal boxes, scissors and a hole punch for paper to make gaskets similar to that. I coat the gasket with a bit of oil and assemble. I've never had one fail.

Hopefully, definitely learned a lesson on this one. I wanted to run one of those myself but at this point just leave it to them and start rebuilding soon.

I agree with surface rust. They can run a geglazer or hone down and clean that off.

I'm not sure what you mean by phasing the the propeller shaft or halfshafts. The half shafts yokes should be in line, but that is very visable if they are not. The main source of vibrations after changing uni-joints is the tolerance in the uni-joint. The uni-joint should have 0,02mm endplay. This is important to keep the shaft centered and balanced. Nissan make 7 different sizes (1.49 to 1.67mm) to calbrate the tolerance to the correct specifications. This could be your source of the vibration.

Next hurdle is a hidden vacuum log for my ITB. My SK one is proving too hard to hide. My plans for a billet clamp won’t work with the stock hardware. But a simple cushion clamp should do the trick. Next is welding 3x 1/4 hose barbs onto my 5/8 OD aluminum pipe. It’s been threaded to -6 orb on each end. With the plan to use iac at some point.

I just run a separate small k&N off the valve cover breather. I suppose if you have a lot of pressure in the engine it could get messy. Mine does not. It is quite a bit bigger than the carb overflows. I am not sure if there is enough room to stuff it in the back of the K&N plates. My carb overflows circle around under the carbs, back to the k&N's

You don't have to get personal with me! O wait....

Coolant leaks can be pain to track down sometimes, especially if they are small because the hot motor will dry them up and then may not leak once the pressure drops. Look for signs of dried coolant (whiteish crust/corrosion or may be tinted the color of your coolant) around any water connection and fitting, and along any hose and pipe. Thermostat housing and its connection to the head. You should also have a line that runs from the T housing to heat an air control valve that’s on top of the intake manifold and back across the front of the motor. Hoses on the passenger side that go to the bypass and to the heater core. Heater core/ floor damp/ coolant smell inside. And possibly finally, check for signs of wet or dry coolant all over the radiator. Mine had tiny leak in the core and on top end where the support piece attaches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much driving are you doing in a couple of weeks? And how much is disappearing? A whole tank's worth? Does the exhaust smell like coolant? OR do you smell coolant in the engine bay? Check your spark plugs. HG leaks tend to clean the cylinder that is getting the coolant. Also, check the back of the cylinder head over the starter. Mine had an external HG leak there. The coolant ran down the back of the engine while it was warming up. Once the engine got hot the leak sealed up. But you could see the stain it left.

I can’t see anything in the pictures, so cannot comment on you particular situation. Coolant can leak from the water pump shaft, when the seal gives up. That may be what you are seeing there. As for the possible head gasket leak, pull the spark plugs. If coolant is leaking from a coolant passage to a cylinder at the head gasket, the plug for that cylinder will be clean. As coolant escapes into the combustion chamber, it scours the chamber clean, along with the plug. Checking cylinder head bolts for tightness is part of routine maintenance on an L series engine. I check mine every time I adjust the valve clearances. The pan gasket leak and gear lube leak at the differential are easily corrected. Simply drain, remove, clean, install new gasket and refill. I usually wait until the leaks are leaving puddles before addressing them.

I had a mishap with my battery, so have been waiting for a new one to arrive by mail. I've mainly been working on some non-engine stuff with the car. I'll also be picking up some welding gas today. I ordered some O2 sensor bungs on Ebay a few weeks ago, but they still aren't here, so I ordered some other ones on Amazon. I have a TinyWB which I'll use to hook up my Bosch LSU 4.9 to my Speeduino. Hopefully that will help me get some good diagnostics info.

Yeah, definitely strange times. I remember watching movies about pandemics and wondered if it could ever happen. At least this one we aren't all turning into zombies. I feel ya about the club being a lifeline. I have been focusing on the back end development for quite some time. Moving to a new domain host, organizing a server replacement, programming some online stuff (hopefully microfiche online soon), and just general club activity. I wish I could say I was working on my Z or at least driving it. Need to get out and kick the tires again now that spring is here. And yes I really despise TV these days. I cut the cable a few years ago but we still get over the air broadcasts. Every time I watch for 10-15 minutes and just shut it off.

There's no one you can depend on more than you. Sounds like you recognize the need for changes, so do that and be reassured that life will be less stressful when you succeed. I wish you the very best!

Earlier I mentioned the goal of the news programs as being to get people amped up so they'd buy more stuff. Saw something along those lines this morning.

Washington state is seeing an increase in cases. The restaurants are allowed 50% capacity indoors. I met some relatives over the weekend and made us all leave to find outdoor seating. I think that "capacity" is set by the fire marshal and means how many people can you pack in to a space. A lot. 50% is still a lot. It felt crowded and everybody takes their mask off as soon as they sit down. I felt dumb as soon as I walked in. There's a certain county that might be contributing more to the state numbers. Lots of flags there.

Other than breathing in carbon dioxide all day, what could go wrong? 😛 I also find it funny when people drive their cars, by themselves, while wearing a mask. I mean, c'mon people. There are times when it's good to wear a mask, I agree. But sometimes I just shake my head.

Hi, FYI here's another 1/71 Series I build (VIN: 18,859). A one owner bought new on May 13th, 1971 in Kitimat,BC,Canada. Total refurbishment(~6 year) started in 2007....Thanks to, 'Blue'