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Awk34

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About Awk34

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    240z

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  1. I got one of these to get TDC without taking the head off: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJN4YP
  2. Okay, the issue with the rear butterfly was that the choke cable was mounted a little high. I tried using the lift pin method you mentioned, but each time i tried, the engine lowered in RPM and almost died, which would indicate 'lean', but I cranked the mix screw all the way to 'rich' and it still stumbled and died. 🤔
  3. @AK260 Yes, I turned them up all the way, then backed them off two turns like the tuning guide suggests. Here's some clips of my progress: https://youtu.be/oXMduC3bvT8 In one of the clips you can see me pull up on the rear carb's throttle with quite some force. It causes the RPMs to drop by a few hundred. The main throttle linkage isn't causing it to stay open by a bit. It seems like the butterfly itself has a little bit of room to move back closed. I have a coolant sensor inline with my lower radiator hose. As I just realize, I probably should have put it on the upper radiator hose,
  4. I was able to get it running at around 1200 RPM. Some attempts around there just killed the engine. I shouldn't have to use the choke at all to get it started when it's this warm out (60-70℉), right? Or do I still need to choke it to get it up to temp? I also wonder if some combo of my cam & distributor make it not want to idle lower. The engine sounds pretty good now. I have a Kameari distributor and the unknown PO's cam. The trouble with tuning now is that since it still wants to idle so high, my flow meter is always off the charts.
  5. Well here's progress. Something must have been stuck open a bit on the throttle. I reinstalled everything and the throttle is closing a lot more. Now it will idle around 2000RPM. I think I just need to do regular tuning now. PXL_20210410_205834352.mp4
  6. For clarification here's the rear carb: https://youtu.be/-wSprnZJ9I4
  7. Here's both jets with the mixture screws turned all the way up. There's no gasket that fits between the dome top and the carb body, correct?
  8. @AK260 One spring measured at 2.2oz, the other 2.1oz, so probably within margin-of-error. I confirmed that the holes in the pistons (two on each piston) are clear of debris. Apologies if the context for the carb video was unclear. The footage of the carb running was all from the front carb. The footage with the borescope to the butterfly was of the rear carb. By "drop test" if you mean I lifted the piston and heard it slowly creep back down to make a light *thunk* then yes. Attached is a picture of the front carb's butterfly when it's off the car. It seems like it completely clo
  9. @AK260 Yes there are springs on the pistons. Even the gap being a little too open like it might be shouldn't cause a 3000 - 4000 RPM idle, right?
  10. @heyitsrama here's a couple more photos
  11. Here's a video to help: It shows the front carb when the engine "idles" at 4000 / 3000 RPM. The piston is definitely shooting up, so there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere between the cylinder and the carb, right? I've attached photos of the front (0007) & rear (0010) butterflies.
  12. Here's some photos. As you can see I don't have any of the vacuum diaphragm / valve stuff on the balance tube, and all the barbs are blocked off with caps.
  13. I haven't retried finding TDC on my new damper, but you can kind of see what's going on here: https://youtu.be/5KwKMwHtFMI?t=45
  14. Here's a bunch of photos I took last Fall when I did a bunch of engine work (head gasket, seals, etc) PXL_20201201_005333745.mp4 PXL_20201201_005357207.mp4
  15. It's hard to tell from the video, but I believe they are raised a bit. I'll get a better video or some pictures tomorrow. Last time I had the carbs apart It seemed like the butterflies were closing fine, but maybe I'll take them apart again to check. What should they look like when 'closed'? Should the butterfly be straight up-and-down, 90° to the intake? I remember them being at a slight angle to the intake.
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