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When taking parts off of 50 year old Datsun’s, you may encounter some rusty bolts that need a little attention. Sometimes you just have to give up and break it off, then deal with the drill and tap that results. Perfectly normal. Some of the bolts on my “most likely to break off” list include the M8 pair at the bottom of the fender with the nifty little pointy tips that face upward, threading into an internally welded nut inside the rocker panel. Natural place for water to collect and make those threads just about solid. Well today I had a treat. The 75 280 that I’m parting out had two missing and already out, leaving just two that I had to remove. And surprise surprise, I got one of them out without breaking the bolt!

If it was mine, I'd get it running with the Webers for now. There's plenty of things to change after you've gone through your list.

@240260280: Maybe my post was a bit misleading. The blanked frond lower corner valances and the Top blinkers are not the question here - these were normal on european 240Z's and both my cars came with a similar setup. I think the reason was that european cars had to have a minimum mounting height of blinkers and those that where standard equipment for the non-european markets where too low - so they came up with this solution. The big questions regarding my pictures are: - The car shows an european spec car, but with fender mirrors. and it appears to be some kind of an official show car - which is strange. european cars never had the fender mirrors - The car has some weird fender-top mount blinkers or indicators which never made it on any production cars as far as i know So the overall question is what this special (prototype?) car was about and when / where it was shown in the picture?

If you have one an air compressor blow wand would be #2 after @gwri8 leaf blower suggestion. Now I want a Mudslide.

I don't agree---but that's O.K.

As Steve replied, your 260 is yet another example of the factory flat top carbs being ditched. In your case, as was often the case back in the day, the carbs were replaced with Weber downdraft carbs. Extremely common. There is another thread currently discussing the conversion to round tops that will give you more insight into your options and required changes regards the round tops: You can keep the Webers and rebuild and tune them, go the round top route or ----my personal favorite----find a set of flat tops and restore them. I would caution that going with the flat tops is NOT an easy path.

The carburetors installed on the car are Weber 32/36 downdraft carburetors. The air filters on those carburetors are typical for that type. The SU carburetors are side draft. The fuel rail definitely isn't stock. The stock fuel rail has a return. On this car the fuel rail is dead-headed going to the carburetors, and the line back to the tank has a redneck plug on it. As for how long the car has been sitting, my 73 has been sitting in my garage for 11 years, and it has less dust on the engine than this car.

Can anybody tell me something about this car or where it was shown?? I found it in an Car related archive. All information was that ithe picture shows a Datsun 240Z from 1971. It looks like it was displayed at a booth at some car show, but honestly i have no clue where or when exactly. To me it looks like a prototype car or something similar. I don't think this weird combination of parts ever made it into production - It appears to be an early Euro spec car (LHD, no rear side markers, but additional blinkers in the front grille) - No "Euro" front spoiler - Fender mirrors - Additional Lights (Blinkers?) on top of the Fenders (i think i've only seen a picture of those once, before) - The "Datsun" sign in the back is a hint that it was shown at an export market show and not in Japan. Picture © www.zwischengas.com (All Automobil-Revue Catalogues can be checked out online on zwischengas.com)

Today's entertainment. Actually sold, over riders in the back, not original, not a 71, for $26,750. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-151/

Here is another three Z's with the blanked under bumper turn indicators (and bumper mounted ones) like the one above: First two are in France, 3rd in Germany. Bonus is a prototype in Japan (possibly a HP Prince I6? Interesting exhaust pipes 🙂 )

For sure! I would start with a leaf blower first just to avoid making mud slides. You're going to wind up touching every part of that engine and it will be much easier to inspect when it's clean(ish).

If it "ran when parked" best to just get it running again first, with what's on there. You'll know that what you have should work. If you swap parts before you start you'll be starting from unknown. https://www.amazon.com/Empi-Master-Rebuild-Dune-Buggy/dp/B00FB7ZFM0 Study up on points, and timing, and mechanical fuel pumps.

I’ve been tracking my Z more, I’ve been a bit concerned about oil starvation as the pan is not baffled. I was thinking that a turbo oil pump might be beneficial as I’m running bit of a unknown pump that I just threw in when I was assembling the motor. The motor is an flattop overbored L26, with a n42 head that’s been slightly shaved down. Usually on idle it can appear to be pretty low on the guage, esp if the oil is nice and HOT. Are there possible downsides to having too much oil pressure/flow in the system? I’ve seen that some people ( @siteunseen ) say that the pressure gauge was pinged 1/2 to 3/4 on idle, it seems like the flow difference is quite a lot. AZC seems to have the cheapest option I’ve seen, http://www.arizonazcar.com/oilpump.html I also see that people use k24 (SOHC) motor oil pumps. I gotta change the oil within the next two weeks before our next track event, figure might as well swap it if there is a benefit to it, and no risk in ruining something with the high pressure. here is a bonus for reading this far, got this pizza the other day it was pretty good.

I have always faced the metal side to the exhaust manifold because the head has coolant running through it and the manifold doesn't. You might want to take a coarse file to the mating surface on the exhaust manifold to make sure that all rust and carbon deposits have been removed and the surface is flat, those 2 exhaust leaks on cylinder #5 and #6 show that something is off.

When the head is off, you have to check if everything is strait as an arrow.. use a ruler and some feeler gauge.. (or shine a light under the ruler and look for light on the other side ) Reading about how it's done is always good.. Also many vid's on youtube about it.

This week is about denting and panels adjustment. Will end up with a test fitting with the new weatherstrip to ensure everything opens/closes smoothly. Starting to look like a car again 😍 Some progress on the shocks and other parts: T3 coilover kit fitted on the original Nissan leg, with the KYB Excel-G inside. The leg is then gone for painting in satin black and I am also getting new shock mounts. Same treatment for the other parts, except the sway bars to be red, to match with the bushing kit and the rear diff cover will remain aluminum with ceramic protection. In other news, we managed to save the gas tank (several pin holes to fix) but the crankshaft damper was definitely gone, and this sh*** is no easy to find as original...

If you open the throttle fully and crank, will it eventually start? Say after 5 seconds of cranking with the pedal all the way down. If you open the hood before the hot restart, do you notice fuel dripping from the air horns? This sounds like a flooding issue either due to fuel siphoning, too rich of a mixture, or both. If the car restarts with the throttle floored, then we can look deeper into why it might be flooding.

What @jfa.series1, says, I use a coarse wire wheel to remove everything down to clean metal, by that time the piece looks pretty good and for bolts that's as far as I go. For showy pieces after the coarse wheel I switch to a fine wire wheel and everything comes up gleaming. It all comes back looking like treasure.

Now I get why you wanted to know how to get the crank out like that. In this case the easiest is to buy the engine, take it home and remove what you want and sell the rest. Too bad it got away. I saw one of these engines on a pallet for sale online recently, for a few hundred bucks. It was gone by the time I inquired about it.

I put seats from a '90 300ZX in mine. I first saw some at the old MSA Zcar show. Asked the owner to sit in in his car. They were way more comfortable and supportive. He said it wasn't too difficult to install. He and I used the original adjusters from our S 30s and drilled a couple of new holes. Went right in and I've never regretted the swap. My old tired butt and back thank me whenever I go for a drive. Cheers, Mike

So everyone knows.....I didn’t buy this Viper it was given to me by my father who was quite an amazing man. He came from humble, lower income family beginnings. Was a 2x Vietnam vet who flew helicopters in the war. He came home with pretty severe PTSD and was so emotionally damaged and saddened by his experience that he decided to become a doctor. He packed up the family and moved us to Italy in 1973 and got his MD in Rome taught in Italian (which he learned while there). We moved back to the states and he became an ER doctor, opened several clinics and gave Free medical services to all Vets, Police and Firefighters and well as people who could not afford medical services. He traveled to Honduras every few years to give free medical care to the poor there. He loved fast cars and when he bought this Viper new it was the ultimate American sports car. He helped more people than anyone I know. He passed away sitting on the living room watching the Scfi channel of was we think was a stroke in 2018. This car is special to me because it is one of the few things I have of his. He put all 38,800 miles on it and to sit in it and drive and the closest I can be to being with him. It holds tremendous sentimental value to me. He surely wasn’t the pretentious man that people may think of those who own cars like this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi! I'm Mário and I'm from Portugal...recently I restores my Z...a Portuguese one! Well, I learn a lot reading this topic, and I found some interesting features, like the 432 suspension and many other details. I can confirm about the stabilizer bars sizes and all extras our Portuguese Z's have! It's very interesting because my Z is the lowest vin in Portugal, sold and registered in August 71, but the manufacture month is March. There are 70 Z's sold in this year (71) and all with lowest vins...mine is HLS30U-23644...there are several diferences from the others sold during 72 and in the end by 73. Mine has rear and front spoiler, vertical defrost lines, kobe seiko wheels, blue windows, two interior air buttons, passenger foot rest, different gear box, 1st series center console, plastic engine ventilator, engine bay light, 71 vertical antena radio and many more...above the gloves compartment there are 4 letter, and accordong to a doce, they, the portuguese Z's, where specific for our market...but it's hard to find such information. From 71 to 73 only 139 were sold...these days, less than 45 are running... here are some photos of my Z...It's all std...no modifications...even the engine and compartment parts.

Creeping back into L land.....