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Pleasant temperatures today and a productive session at the workbench.

I thought this might make it easier for people to find my house when they come over for help.

That’s pretty cool @SteveJ.......Any bets on how long before you get a call from your HOA? Right after they call your next door neighbor with the Pink Flamingos!

Be sure to adorn yourself!

I found some, what I think, are some NOS parts for the Bluebird P510 here in the UK. Some confirmation from someone with more 510 knowledge than me would be great. The first, does look correct, as the part number lines up with carpartsmanual.com site, being up to 07/'68; The second NOS part came without an original Nissan box, but looks very much like the fuse box advertised here (25410-A8625) ; https://datnissparts.com/x-niles-fuse-box-70-71-datsun-510-2-wire-feed-fb24d-replaces-25410-a4901-25410-a8610-25410-a8615-25410-a8625/ The last a side front indicator (turn signal) looks like the carpartsmanual.com drawing and a quick look elsewhere at images, but the part number is a little off. Maybe its a non-North American part, which carpartsmanual doesn't pick up. Any confirmation/help would be great. Thanks. I know very little about the 510, I think we got them as a UK market car (and Europe [as seen Portuguese registered ones for sale]), but numbers, no idea. Ian

Yes, it sounds like you are starting out with about the same criteria that I did - tough would be an understatement. Please advise where you end up.

Be sure he uses the correct cam cover and oil pan gaskets. The cork gaskets are useless, and will start leaking before he pours oil into the engine. No sealer is needed on the cam cover gasket. I used grey silicone (a very thin film, just enough to hold it to the pan), nothing on the cylinder block side, assembled and snugged the bolts finger tight, let it set overnight, then torque to spec. I did this on my first race engine built in 1989, and have reused the pan/gasket on 3 different engines, with no leaks. And I've used the same cam cover gasket along side the pan. Is this mechanic doing the cylinder head too? If so be sure he details the valve springs. When the springs are cut and ground, a sharp edge forms on the ends of the spring wire. A little work with a die grinder fitted with a Scotchbrite hard roll smoothing and polishing the ends will save the spring seat shims, and the retainers from the raw edges that would otherwise cut into them. (I had a fellow racer come up to me at a meet once with a handfull of metal bits and ask me what they were. I told him they were pieces of spring seat shim, and then looked at his valvetrain and pointed out where some of the other ones were starting to come out from under the springs. Being a office worker, engineer as I recall, he paid one of the well known engine builders to build him an engine. I told him he needed to have a talk with them about the poor quality workmanship.) Don't forget the camshaft to cam follower geometry check. Very important. Also a very good idea to use a degree wheel when assembling the engine. crank and cam timing need to be set correctly so a good baseline can be established for further tuning. Do you know what you will be using for cam profile? Are you also looking for some performance gains? There is a lot of detail work that can be done, some to the block, and a lot to the head. Has this engine been reworked before? How many miles are on it? If the cylinders are in good shape, in spec for roundness, size and taper, it is possible that they can be honed, and new pistons and rings used, extending the time to when the block is bored beyond usefulness. If the block deck checks out within spec, leave it be, otherwise only take off the bare minimum to clean it up. The rotating assembly, crank and rods, are forged steel, and everything is balanced very well from the factory. The Datsun engine builders were very proud of their work, and it shows in the excellent quality of these engines. They always need to be checked for balance, the crank along with the flywheel, clutch cover (without the disc), harmonic balancer/pulley and the cam chain gear and distributor/oil pump drive gear. Like with the valve springs, all sharp edges should be cleaned up before assembly, oil holes in the journals, edges of holes drilled for balancing. This prevents the possibility of a stress riser forming, which would result in a fracture of the crank, something that never ends well. If you really want to go all out, polish the rods and crank, to reduce windage losses, polish the inside of the block and paint the it with Glyptal so the oil returns to the pan quicker. The cylinders can be eyebrow notched to unshroud the valves, same on the head. In addition to port matching, there is plenty to gain with a full port job (including manifold carbs and header) and flowbench work. But this all costs a lot of money, as mostly it is a time and material thing, and many hours of labor are involved. I do most of this to the engines I have built, save for the flowbench and porting work, and the stuff that has to happen in a machine shop with mills and boring machines. Saves me thousands of dollars. I've probably left a couple of things out, if I remember them, I'll pop in again. If you have any questions, please ask.

Here's a little more to add to the confusion. I'm starting to think that the 11220-E4100 mounts don't have the dowel pin. When I check my 7/70 car, I can't feel anything protruding thru the hole in the bracket on the crossmember. I will be pulling my engine, hopefully soon, and will report back. Edit >>>> Looks like i was incorrect there definitely is a dowel pin, see the last pic where I loosened the mount and pried the mount up a little. The pin is short but it is there. Here is an image from the JDM parts book of 11220-E4100 and It doesn't seem to show a dowel pin.

I would "like" this but have evidently exceeded my limit for the day!! Maybe 3....

This is getting confusing for me so I'll bow out now. My car cranked up and ran perfect this morning. Good luck z8987.

Just for clarity, I was trying to show that 11220-E4100 would be the correct prior to 08/73. And that 11220-E3300 is for 08/73 forward and is not backwards compatible. @z8987 has a 1970 car show, so he would need to use the 11220-E4100 mount to avoid grinding the dowel pin (based on what I have read on this site). I just checked the parts book and can confirm that the front crossmember, which has the brackets that these mounts mate with, also shows a new part number also effective from 08/73. Strangely there is no mention of compatibility issues. It would be interesting to get measurements of the dowel pin location (center to center of mount hole to dowel pin hole) on the older and newer crossmembers. Has anyone been able to purchase the 11220-E4100 mounts from Nissan, or do they now only have 11220-E3300 available?

My dealership shows out of stock too for all the old stuff but they get it from a distribution center in Mississippi, usually next day.

Courtesy shows $84.18 Out of stock 2-4 days https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-mount-11320n3000

I am in Maricopa county I have Grundy classic car insurance for my 78 I have never had my car to the mvd or to emissions check but maybe I didn’t need an inspection because my title was transferred to me in state. Check out desertdatsuns.net that’s a local group with a good amount of datsuns of all sorts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want the rear are also leds, you could put some in there and leave one ordinairy lamp in the circuit just for load.. or use a resistor. That resistor should be.. normal bulb 23w/13,6 = 1,7 x2 = 3,4Amps R= U/I = 13,6/ 3,4 = 4 Ohm resistor! But watch out it has to be one of power.. P=U x I = P is 13,6V x 3,4 amp = 46,24 say 50 Watt !! Easyest is to use one or two (normal flasher bulbs) bulbs and hide them in the car behind the upholstery haha.. When you use one bulb of 23 W your interval flash will go faster.. you could also use a headlight lamp H4 or the one that was before those H4's they were 45 Watt and it will make the interval of the flash perfect i think. It ofcourse does not help with the energy saving of the leds but you got leds all around.. 🙂

Oh, I have been helping people out for a few years now. I just finally got smart enough to put the sign on the mailbox so they would stop missing the address. With the HOA, all of the mailboxes and houses look pretty much the same.

First of all, I really like the 225/45R16 size. I bought 225/50R16 last time to get the stock OD, but I think they look too big. They also rubbed before I rolled and trimmed. The 45 series should be perfect, though the speedometer and odometer will be off. As for the tires, all three choices are good. The Yokohamas are quite a bit more expensive and I don't think you are getting much for the price difference. The Dunlops are great track tires, though a friend had them on a street car and they were really loud. I'd probably lean towards the Toyos even though I don't really think the tread pattern looks good on a street car. I just wish Hankook would start making the RS-4 in a 225/45R16. That is a great tire for street and track. I will run 225/45R15 RS-4's on my 260 race car. Let us know what you get and how you like them. If all goes to plan, my street Z will be back on the road in a few months and I will need new rubber. My Hankook RS-2's look like new, but they are close to 15 years old now. I parked my Z for the winter in 2010 and it hasn't moved since. It's on old steelies and crap tires for storage. My Panasports and Hankooks have been stored in my cool, dry basement ever since. My efforts have been on the 260Z race car.

Just like the rest of us, cars are like girls. We remember the ones that were best. Rough and ratty but were there day in and day out.

Just realized that I was pretty busy in the late 80's/early 90's and pretty much completely out of the car scene. My only car was a 1985 Ford Escort that would occasionally get something stuck in the engine and billow large clouds of oil smoke then miraculously clear up. Eventually it blew a head gasket or cracked something and dumped all of the coolant in to the oil pan. It was a neat little car though, it had a 5 speed stick and was front wheel drive. One of the CV joints was bad, so bad that it was past the clicking stage and was full in to the feel-the-wobbling-shaft stage, but I just drove it anyway, to its death. So I missed most of the cool cars that showed up in that time-frame. Never heard of Conquest or Starion. Why am I sharing all of these old memories...

From idea to test Fit in a week. Cnc cut next week. Only tweak is matching the step and radius of the step to the throttle bodies. This will be a decorative mount for a single piece fuel rail.

This car is incredible!!! Just when I see a restoration that I think can’t get any better than that, one gets better than that. I love silver Z’s. My first Z was a 1970 in silver with a black interior. The only thing that worries me is that it’s gonna be too nice to drive. Congratulations on a beautiful restoration!!!!

Like father ........like son. This car is going to blow the Z community away! Can’t wait to take the twin Safari Gold cars to an East Coast Z event.

The Macau Zcar in the picture above was purchased a few Years back and I just shipped to the new owner in Australia and it just arrived there.

I have a bunch of photos of cars doing that in Turn 10B at Road Atlanta.

Oi, Nevermind you're GG's lemmie know wha you're on. No one speaks better English than the top cat Geordies

Ozzy says it's just a hand in the bush.

I wanted to give a compliment to the caliber and quality of people that are regular contributors to this forum. Seems like many other car forum just don’t have the magic this one has. I have a 20 yr old Dodge Viper that was given to me by my father before he passed away a few years ago. It sat for at least 5 years in his barn so once I got it here it needed some TLC but ran great. This week I took it out to get inspected and then went and ran it pretty hard. As I pulled in the driveway I got a Check Engine light. My OBD2 reader flagged a #2 misfire. Well, I went and posted on one of the Viper forums expecting a similar group of folks as we have here on CZCC and wow what a disappointment. Some of the folks on there are pricks, providing snarky comments that just turned me off. Won’t ever post on there again. This is why some other forum die. They don’t welcome new members and provide marginal help with excess useless comments. So, this forum is great because we have great people here and like many of you I appreciate that and glad to be part of it. Happy New Years by the way! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk