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Celebrating my car's 50th birthday all month long!

"Who? Me?" He asks, sounding a little startled. As if he was interrupted doing something he ought not to be doing...

Clean the grease out, then take a die grinder with a suitable rotary file, and clean up your indescretions. Take your time, be careful and only remove the displaced material. Be sure to thoroughly remove all bits of metal shavings before reassembly.

Those dings might be rubbing on the washer that sits under the nut. So a little grinding/scraping like Racer X says to do should get it back to shape. Pretty common to have dings and scratches in there (for me anyway). The hub is supported completely on the races inner surfaces and the bearings. The rest of the metal in the vicinity shouldn't contact anything. If the bearing race seats are good and the races are fully inserted in the seats then the hub itself should be fine. There are two notches underneath the bearing race that are meant for punching out the old races. Best to use brass or aluminum though to avoid gouges. Make sure the races are seated all the way, no gap underneath. Not clear why you even took them out, you can just leave them in there for rotor turning, cleaning, whatever.

You (and your Z) ARE golden Jim! Is that your latest trophy win? Happy Birthday from Zup and Zilver!

AK260, Isn't that what I said ? 😀😀😀 (I have a Degree in Electronics also)

If you decide to tackle it I will suggest raising the front with ramps or jack stands. It'll help your back. After about an hour I can't take anymore bending over. Also cover those thin fenders with towels or those plastic/rubber magnetic fender covers. You'll need a few special tools also. The timing chain wedge, head bolt allen socket, cam sprocket socket, torque wrench and few others I cant think of. Best of luck on whatever you decide to do.

Firstly, don’t sweat it buddy, we’ve all done something like that. I used sockets too, you just got unlucky. Secondly, I erm, second what Racer and Zed Head have said already, I don’t think you’ve ruined anything either. The advice above is very sound. Finally, have you considered that it could be the metal guard on the flange? It’s a close fit and easy to knock out of round by accident! (See my dodgy red arrow mark-up below) Keep the faith, you will find it to be something very simple and insignificant.

I remember when I turned 50. Mrs. Racer 2.0 organized a party, inviting all of my friends over. On buddy gave me 50 beers, and said I had to drink them all on that day. I tried, but I’m not a big drinker. Eventually I did drink them all, but it took few days. Maybe you should have your Z drink 50 gallons of premium gasoline, eh?

It's from Christopher Robin.

Tutorial If you're not mechanically inclined I'd pass. It is a job.

that looks like it would make turning very difficult. I guess if you were drag racing this would be helpful. Would really scrub off rubber if you were to turn with a diff modified like this.

Put the wrong emblems on the car and you'll see it with regrets every time you approach the car. That's a beautiful car, small price to keep it authentic.

This helps and does put me in the right direction. Thanks!

Being such an apparently stock 30zxtt, you already know the answer to your query. $$$.00 Beautiful car Mart!

@zKarsI am at the point of doing the alternator and I wondered if you could clarify what dimension to cut from? Is it the overall length. Oh, I stole your picture!

the 260 has (or at least mine does) two factory fuel pump relays. one triggered by the alternator, the other by the interlock relay. and if i could i would yank the whole mess and switch to a mechanical fuel pump.

I'm not sure what you mean by air gap. After the penetrant has had time to work (and I hope you are using something strong like Kroil), apply heat on the fill plug. The 3/4 to 1/2 adapter should fit on the plug. Then you can use the 1/2 pipe plug to fit a 1/2 drive breaker bar or impact. When I tried it before, the 3/4 adapter seemed to fit the fill plug well. If yours was abused, your mileage may vary.

1/2" elbow and 1/2 street elbow with 2 short sections of 1/2 pipe for the hose to slide unto. 5/8" hose.

Got it! Saved until I don't remember where it came from!

It as been a while since I have provided an update. So, without further delay, here are some pics of the wheels I ordered from Top End Performance. Steve, if I recall the name correctly, had the best pricing out of 4 or 5 places I checked. You have to order a set of four though to get the price of $266 per wheel. That plus $150 shipping to my zip code... Oh and they were drop shipped directly from Mas at Panasport. My quote directly from Mas, by the way was $341.43 plus shipping for each wheel (including 4 lug nuts) - sooooooooo not good a deal. Size is 16 X 7. It will be a while longer before they see actual use!

How not is not? You're probably going to break some bolts and/or studs, on the exhaust manifold, maybe even a head bolt if the head's never been off. Injector hold-down screws break also. How many miles on the engine? How do you know you need a new head gasket? What is leaking? It's a job.

The 81 ZX Turbo sold for $32,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-turbo-6/

Back on the body for some final work to the interior before paint. When the shell was blasted we had all of the sound deadening removed so that any rust underneath could be removed and cleaned up. I wanted to maintain the original look of the floors best we could for this rebuild. To do this we replicated the factory sound deadening pads placed throughout the interior with sheets of a 3M material: Sound Deadening This material comes with an adhesive backed side and a top surface that can be painted. It goes on very easy and can be trimmed down to the correct size with scissors or a box cutter. Once ready for paint the entire interior will get a coat of sealer followed by the silver base color and clear.

There are two of those on my race car, my Dodge Ram has a version of the Carter pump to send fuel to the injector pump (Cummins diesel), and I built a fuel transfer cart that has a Carter pump. Mount them with rubber isolators and the noise is much lower.

I guess the take away is that I think there have been more than one person that has had 'fuel pump' issues that may indeed have been restricted pickup tube issues... Easy thing to check. The next pump I was going to try is a Carter P90091 or P60430. Any thoughts on this style on pump? Anybody want a Holly Red? If I find something else, anybody want a Carter P4070?

240z260zSUJetDepthCompTool.xls 240z260zSUJetDepthCompTool.xml

1981 280ZX Turbo. Looks good. 13,000 miles shown. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-turbo-6/

Parts arrived back from plating for the Z this week, both in yellow and clear zinc. Now for inventorying every nut bolt and washer and to allocate them back to where they were previously installed. This is roughly half of the yellow zinc parts that were restored. And most of the clear zinc.

That's a $250,000 car. Funny, but Pierre Z worked on it prior to the auction. He worked on the 31k mile Z. Did you put those wheels on it?

It annoys me when people in my life say I should sale my Zs while the market's up like it is. They look at BAT and ebay then advise me about cars I know better than they know their kids.