GGRIII

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About GGRIII

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    Pennsburg PA.

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  1. And I think I can clarify even more. I believe that on my early 260 the bumper stuck out further than on the car pictured. I say this because the rubber piece that bolts on the bumper in the middle is wider on my car. Given that those nuts are almost impossible to get off without snapping them (on east coast cars anyway) I'd guess that the middle rubber bumper piece has always been attached so it is pre early 74. But shouldn't there be bumper guards... Not impossible to find solid rubber ones like on my 260.
  2. Great info, thanks a bunch!. My 260 will become a 280 with some minor head work so it should have a bit more to give than my 200K mi 260 motor has now. I agree with cgsheen1 'I've always believed that you use the lower 4 gears for spirited driving - 5th for cruising' I know that driving to Atlanta 2 years ago, I spent a fair amount of time above 3000 rpm, That is why I feel that 5th is too short right now - I want don't care if I need to down shift on a hilly highway, it may help to keep me awake!
  3. Agreed and i am talking about using an 83 5spd, tallest 5th, with the 3.54 diff, tallest diff.
  4. I believe have a non close ratio 5spd and know that I have 3.54 rear end in my car currently. I don't cross it but it does see some highway cruising and 5th seems a bit short. As part of an engine upgrade (see CO posts on F54/P90 build) I also acquired what should be a close ratio 5spd and 3.9 rear from an 83 non-turbo. I was thinking that I may run the close ratio 5spd but keep the 3.54 rear end - effectively making all of the gears about 10% longer. They way I see it the acceleration out of first would be a bit slower but everything else doesn't much matter as long as you wind it out 10% further. Has anybody driven this combination or does anybody have thoughts on the close ratio 5spd - it seems that there is a larger gap between 2nd and 3rd but has a longer 5th which I would like for cruising at 80...
  5. CO's motor should make it to my garage on Wednesday. Since I have his hoist he will finally be able to get to the bottom end! Since I have a 260 my exhaust is set up for square exhaust ports. I'm thinking about using an E88 head and sticking the bigger valves in it or using a P90 head depending on what I can find. That means I would have a P79 head laying around - if I can find an E88 or P90. As part of the 280zx strip I also have an extra 5spd and diff. CO will have first dibs but at the end of the build I will be clearing out the garage of extra stuff :).
  6. I would just remove all of it and open the window 😄 My car had AC and I had 2 of those goofy little vents, it's all in a box somewhere if you need one!
  7. I have a 260 with 188K original miles and this winter I am going to rebuild the motor. My original thought is to keep the E88 head but stick the larger intake valves in it. Then mate this to either my 260 block that has been bored out (keeping the car matching numbers) or use a 280 block with flat top pistons. So I have 2 questions: 1. Has anybody bored out a 260 block, is it the same as boring out a 240 block, how much can I get away with? 2. If I use a 280 block with my E88 head is there anything I should look for, I guess my concern is with oil and water passages. I know my E88 has a spray bar and wasn't sure about how that would work with the later blocks...
  8. GGRIII

    2 Questions

    I'll see about posting some pics and a description of my mod. The quick and dirty is: an old fresh air intake knob, as I recall drilled it out, soldered some piano wire in it, bicycle brake housing, an old cheesy pressed steel cigarette lighter - guts removed washer tacked in place with the mig, whole thing assembles up where the cigarette lighter use to be. Looks right at home, 12V lighter port moved into glove box where it is more useful for usb power (not in the way while driving...) Give me a day or two...
  9. Can any body tell me how the shoulder strap clip (cheasy little plastic clip) mounts to the interior? Is it just a screw into the plastic side window frame panel or is there a threaded hole in the side widow frame? I have poked around in the hole in the plastic side window frame but haven't been able to locate a hole in the window frame itself. I find it hard to believe that it would just screw into the plastic. I need to find a solution to the belt cutting into my wife's neck! Happy wife = more money to spend on the Z :)
  10. If anybody ever needs a cheap hood (that needs work) mine, the one posted by CO, will most likely be available. I think if you used a cutting disk to slit around the dent and then pull the material from behind you could do a pretty good job with a hammer and dolly then tig it all back together. It would be a PITA but not impossible. The steel on most of these panels is rather thin and dents easily. I'd be surprised if you can find one that doesn't have depressions that need filler. My 'Good One' had a twist and a few 'handprints'. Good luck :)
  11. CO sent me a link to a thread you were on concerning running wires out to the door.  Before I drill any holes, do you have any pictures of actual wires run into the doors?  I'd hate to screw this one up!

     

    1. zKars

      zKars

      The only trick is to look inside the door toward the hinge side and see where you can drill that is clear of the glass and guide channel. I do not have a picture of where I drilled mine, I'm currently Z-less.  It was somewhere in the upper half of the door. 

      It is also determined by the type of bellows or grommet you will use to span between the door jam and door.

  12. I will see if I can get some pics later tonight...
  13. CO is correct, I was getting ready to try all sorts of things but all I had to do was put the caps on first, then mount the wheel to the hub. Note that I also had to flatten the dust caps to the point where they were almost rubbing, make sure your cotter pin does not go over the end but around each side instead and smoosh the cap flat to the axle...
  14. If you really want a Holley Red, I have one out in my garage. I ran it for about 200 miles then went for the Carter. I don't link the Carter was that much quieter, at least not worth the effort of changing it out. If you are interested we can work out the details. BTW what are you using for a restriction/regulator? I had CO modify a Holley non BP regulator to make it a bypass. I'm not sure that it is always working... That is on my short list of to do's when warmer weather gets back.
  15. I started out with a holley red but it was just way too loud. I switched to the Carter and it is a little better but not much. I have never had any issue with fuel delivery affecting performance with either pump. I like the carter design. It is hermetically sealed so the motor is cooled by the fuel. That may be what also makes it a tiny bit quieter. Do be prepared to hear them though.