YZFMax

This is awesome, thanks much!

Perfect, thanks for tips. Will look into this for sure as I do plan on printing with ABS. I'll send you the STL file via PM. 260zDoorTrimEndRH3.stl 260zDoorTrimEndLH3.stl

Agreed. Didn't realize how useful it would be until my kids picked one up. I also ended up making a blank plate to fill in where the fuel light would go on the center console. There's a few more things I have in mind to make, but this will be for another time.

My kids picked up a 3D printer over the holidays, so I thought I try to figure it out and learn how to use it. I just happened to be replacing the rubber wipes on the door window trim, and noticed there were no end caps. Not sure if this is how the car came, or just went missing over the years. I downloaded FreeCAD and started to play around with it. After a lot of youtube videos, I was able to design and print some caps. Haven't installed them on the car yet to confirm the overall fitment, so hopefully no issues. I used PLA filament for the sample pieces (it's the only one I have at the moment). If these work out, I will pick up some ABS filament and reprint them.

Merry Christmas everyone!

I used the same place to get my high lift kit about 10 years ago. It was a high quality kit and the instructions were decent. This was my first attempt at upgrading my garage door and it turned out very well. I also added a jackshaft garage door opener which is a must if you're taking this route.

Another one for Bandpak. Had the lift for about 5 years now and it's been trouble free. Really helps when working on the car. If you have the headroom, go for it. My garage ceiling is 11ft high and just enough to clear the Datsun and my Mustang.

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely look into this, specially the inertia switch.

True, but for me this is a temp solution until I convert the carbs to EFI. Then the ECU will be used to control the fuel injection relay.

I think I found a solution for the fuel pump relay: Fuel Pump Safety Switch (revolutionelectronics.com) This should address the safety concern with the fuel pump staying on if the engine unexpectedly shuts down. If the system does not sense a signal from the tach, then it will cut off the power to the fuel pump. With this, I should be able to run a direct connection from the ignition switch to the starter (via a relay), and eliminate both the interlock and the dual factory fuel pump relays.

This helps and does put me in the right direction. Thanks!

Interesting.... the previous owner also indicated that he added a fuel pump relay, so now I will have to trace this back. Thanks for the heads up!

Bringing this thread back up as I'm also experiencing similar issues. I was reviewing the wiring diagrams for the 260Z interlock and comparing it to the 240Z wiring diagram for the starter. The 240Z basically has a direct connection from the ignition switch to the starter motor, there is no interlock unit or relays. Has anyone tried doing this to the 260Z and bypassing the interlock, seat belt and emergency switch altogether? I would be adding a starter relay in between the ignition switch and the starter motor. Seems like the previous owner already disconnected the seat belt relay, so this is already being bypassed.

This is good to know, thanks!

I just picked up an intake manifold from a 280z for $50. I will be taking out the old components and adding a fuel rail which I also purchased. I'm starting to collect the parts and hopefully start the project next fall. I will be using the Microsquirt for the ECU.