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So I signed up for Youtube TV. I guess they call them "streaming services" now, we used to call it "cable". Basically you can watch programs on your computer. Or one of the new computerized TV's. Most of today's "TV"s are actually just very large computer monitors. Now I find that the commercials on the major main stream networks that I watch follow my latest Google searches. So Youtube, owned by Google, gets information from Google and tailors the TV commercials to match what I'm looking at on the internet. It's not even spooky anymore. Sometimes i try to mess with them by searching things that i want to see commercials about. Is that some boo sh...t? I don't even have TV commercial commonality with the rest of the world anymore. Just seems crazy that they spend so much time trying to drill in to my head. Many of the ads on the web pages are for things that I just bought on Amazon. I just bought it!! Why show me an ad for it. The above might qualify as a rant. I don't know. Edit - also just realized that this might all be in my head. Not sure...

Go LED headlights, reduces the current requirements to the point where relays are barely required to protect our sensitive old headlight switches. either Dapper OE7’s or LED H4 bulbs in Hella or Bosch (or similar) housings is the way to go. Dapper’s OE7 (and OE5) lights are astoundingly good and look OEM. Bright white light and sharp cut off. 2.1 Amp each on low beam. https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7 BTW the blurry photo is caused by extreme speed and distraction of the photographer by the beauty of the subject matter...

A few of you may know this. But last year I designed and made a coil on plug bracket based of Bryan Blake’s ford coil on plug design. It uses the Nissan coil head used on the Nissan GTR R35. Works perfectly, bolts on and you can even buy a very nice pre made wiring harness from platinum racing products. Coils are fairly cost effective. Takes a specific boot (2-3 actually work) to work. It’s one of the best coils on the market. I believe only the AEM coil beats it. Basically he took my design based off of his, then fixed some of my issues and is now selling them. Bottom pictures are my bracket installed on my 240z. Email Bryan to place and order. Eventually he will sell on eBay. bryan@blakemachine.com

I had the z detailed today 2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some people got preferred paking in the hotel.

Always loved the RD400, that and the SR500 thumper would always have a space in my garage

That gets soaked with transmission fluid. Some grease on the seal might help it slide in but once it's in and the transmission filled it's wet with fluid. If you put grease in the slip yoke you might even create a hydraulic seal that puts pressure on the output shaft. Might not even be able to get the shaft installed because of the air pocket or excess incompressible grease. It would be a fun and messy experiment.

It seems to show clear air down by the Columbia River mouth. But the airnow monitors show bad air on the ground. Maybe it's more of a high atmosphere monitor. Not sure it's a good guide for how to get away from the smoke, in a car. Cool animation though. https://gispub.epa.gov/airnow/

Drivers side has plastic film. That side the adjustment screws line up fine. Passenger side they don’t line up. I’ve tried making it fit but it will not sit correctly if I make the adjustment screws line up with the notched part.

I ended up grabbing a sunshade from MSA this weekend. It fits really well in the window. part number is UV10110SV made by cover craft. excuse the dust it’s all from the wildfires.

This is one of my favorite sources to check pollution levels. This link shows particulate matter in 2.5 parts per million. You can also mess around with the settings on the bottom left to see other readings. https://earth.nullschool.net/#current/particulates/surface/level/overlay=pm2.5/orthographic=-120.33,39.35,2015

Check those fuel lines. I am 100% sure everything was tight and leak free after installation. I started the engine up after a week long layoff and noticed a gassy smell, before leaving out on my drive I decided to check on it, pop the hood 6, that right 6 leaks, substantial leaks at the various fuel rail joints (1st gen fuel rail with lots of joints). In a couple minutes of idling prob dumped 3-4 oz of gas. tighten up the clamps (OE style not worm gear) and all good again. the only guess I have is the hoses compressed over time (new hoses all about 2-3 years old). Fuel Injection rated hose bought from auto zone. Made in China no doubt, wonder if I had cheap hose or if this in normal (although I never had an issue with modern day, but then again modern day may use completely different plumbing and connectors. Perhaps why Nissan changed the fuel rail to have one with fewer joints as well. that's my public service announcement for the day, oh and make sure you always carry a fire extinguisher.

That MS3 system should have its own spark "drivers". You shouldn't need any aftermarket system for the spark side. Looks like it will do a lot of stuff. Lots of race car features. It's a huge jump from no distributor timing advance at all. Did you mean no vacuum advance or no advance at all? Your distributor should have, at least, centrifugal advance. You can see that with your timing light. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-evo-standalone-engine-management-system/

If by blowback you mean that it is backfiring or popping through the carb, the first thing to try is to richen up the mixture on that carb, as that will cure "lean pops" through the carb.

Is this the pipe @Zup? Not sure about my position for the pic but I'm pretty sure this is the one off my '72. I deleted the coolant flow through mine so I would be willing to provide this to a good cause. I.E, if it will be used? Cliff Okay, walked my lazy arse downstairs and it is the pipe off a '72.

Corvette body kit? ?

They would have made more of a significant design change by just bolting ZG flares and 432R Rear Spoiler .... this is another 370z in my eyes. It is pretty bad when you look at a "new car design" and need a photo of the last iteration to find the subtle changes.... Nissan is lost. And as Mr K and Mr M said of the 350z,.,... IT STILL LOOKS FAT. 50year anniversary of the 240z and a not-240z tribute car...grrrr A look behind the new design process: 370z chassis (quick and cheap low bar effort platform) [✔] 300zx tail lights & 3l engine (cheap plastic insert and low bar engine) [✔] S30 badges and hood bump (very cheap changes) [✔]

Thank you for correcting the orientation and the info on its possible meaning. Adds to my restoration story. Dash going back in car after 2 years of pain/joy/hard work and money. Cheers

Correct orientation: Reads: 'Sugi'. Very possibly an individual's name, in abbreviated form ('Sugimura', 'Sugimoto' etc).

Yes, I am very picky about that, LOL.

Looks about the size of the one that supplies the heater control vacuum bottle. Just plug it up until you find the vacuum operated thing that doesn't work right. It's nowhere near big enough for something like the brake booster,

The engine removal process looked pretty normal. Many of us have been there. Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room. Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount. The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A". You can tell by the shifter area. It's not "monkey motion".

You’re doing it right Dave....driving it. Who wants a hangar queen.. I’ll get mine there someday. Life has been extremely busy. Finally moved in the new place and we have stuff everywhere. I hear you with the AC, not sure how people drove without it back in the day. My car has stock AC but I’m 100% sure it doesn’t work. It’s on the list of items to tackle. Stock engines typically run better and are more reliable. You see these crazy mods people do and their engine sounds like crap. The only mods I’ll have are a slightly shaved head .020, headers and strongly consider SU carb conversion. Just bought a set of SUs with intakes and all the extras for $200 on CL Something about a carbureted engine. I know the FI is pretty good but wanted to maybe change my gameplan. Had planned on keep FI, but I love the sound and simplicity of carbs. HDAtom, the folks on this forum really know these cars and most have seen all types of mods and such. I like DaveWMs approach before you go crazy trying to do too much. The only reason I went for the full rebuild was that my car was in storage while my house was being built and it was something to do while I waited. You have to be careful of mission creep ( a term we used in the military to describe how you can be easily driven from your original goal). Like I said, I’d clean it up, do the compression check, if good maybe pull the head clean it up and have it rebuilt . Also consider knocking out some easy stuff, like replacing the water pump, and like ZedHead said check your timing chain markings to see where you are. It might be old and stretched and better to replace when it’s out of the car vs doing it installed. Then put it in the car and get it running. Make sure you get your tank cleaned up so your pushing fresh clean fuel too. Good Luck and keep us posted. You forgot pics of the car. It’s like porn to people on this forum. Everyone wants to see what you got so post some pics when you have a chance.

Welcome to the forum, so you're starting off with the fenders but I assume eventually you will want to do the whole car? If yes, then have a look at this forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9 So much good info on there and active pro painters that will answer questions. Chemical stripper works well if it is the real stuff, not the Dolphin friendly stuff, it is extremely toxic and there is always the danger of some of it getting into the seams and ruining the new paint job. A paint stripper heat gun works well as does a power sander, if the fenders will sit in primer for a while then make sure you use 2 part epoxy primer. For small jobs like the fenders you could use the 2k rattle can version, it is quite expensive for the amount you get but you can't get any more convenient. Applying 2k epoxy primer, paint, clear coat with a proper spray gun requires a large outlay of cash for decent equipment and the learning curve is steep. Take your fenders down to bare metal, 50-80 grit, the primer needs a rough surface to grab onto then clean the metal with detergent until a white cotton cloth comes away clean then do the same thing with thinners then again with one of the "final wipe" products. Two coats of 2k epoxy primmer will seal the metal so rust doesn't start again.

Yes, it does fine. Same as the new paint. I just paint the rubber portion. Touch up if needed after bending over harness

There are some numbers in the FSM.

So we sold mommas blue 350z a year or so ago when she got a company car. Yesterday we made a trade. I had this 2004 6.0 turbo diesel Lariat 2006 350z plum, automatic She looks really crushed, doesn't she???