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Well it's definitely not the prettiest soldering job I've done but it's done and the car runs correctly! I also checked the other splices around it and they were solid but a little corroded so I just put some dialectric grease on them and taped it all back up.

Got the dash mounted the metal frame. All the screw holes lined up great. Only problem was finding screw hole above cig lighter.

You need to buy this book, https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 , it is inexpensive and priceless, it will answer all your questions. Or search the archives of this forum for windshield removal, many threads on the subject. Your painters description sounds perfect, both those products are top quality.

For comparison. A friend of mine were at the same dyno a couple of weeks before me. L28 with 3x45 webers basically same as mine but he has a ported N42 head and a bigger cam. Got a lot more power.

200sx throttle cable conversion: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/54528-cable-throttle-linkage.html#post482558

I think I heard of someone who was making custom emulsion tubes for Weber’s. I’ll have to ask about it if they’re local and if they’re the same person with pierce since they're local.

Thanks, Perfect240Z, good to know! Talked to Mike at Pierce Manifolds about their intake manifold, and it seems to be an improvement over the Cannon intake. FYI, for those triple Weber fans, Pierce Manifolds is working on a customized emulsion tube specifically for the L24 thru L28 engine, it is going to dyno at Rebello this week, I think. Would be available in a few weeks, if the results come out as expected. Supposed to be better suited for our engines and a better balance of performance and economy.

I just wanted to add on here, a couple years back I came upon my 72 JCR which had triple Weber’s with a cannon intake. The car would not idle really at all and carbs also needing rebuilt. But I just wanted to add after I removed the carbs I took the manifold off and saw the linkage was bent in the middle and rusted. I had to cut the main rod for the linkage to remove everything, and after looking around I was almost going to use my new harada that I’ve been saving for my other Z. I found out that there’s a company that makes a thicker rod and linkage set up for this issue and is way cheaper. My car now has this linkage with rebuilt Weber’s and a cannon intake and it idles just fine. Just search pierce manifolds and it will come up.?

Here's a link to the same person in Japan that I bought mine from 4-5 years ago: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260z-280z-Harada-Intake-manifold-for-triple-Mikuni-Webers/283568679779?hash=item420602ab63:g:upIAAOSwVvBdRLCj @Rio24 I do not recall that my issue was worse with heat soak. It seemed to happen all of the time so perhaps you are dealing with something a little different. Mike.

Thanks, Rio24, comes out to about $490 delivered to me, not bad. Appreciate the info!

To be specific - Use a threaded plug with a good coating of anti-seize. Otherwise, it's likely that you are still welding up the O2 bung. I'm pretty sure I used anti-seize on the bung for my headers, and I still had a bear of a time removing the plug.

WOW a nice ending for a persistent trouble shooter. That was a very unusual problem to solve. My hat is off to you!!!

I would want the O2 even if it was to just feed a gauge. Makes diagnosis much easier

Don't weld anything shut. Just use a threaded plug. You never know if you'll want that O2 bung some time in the future. Yeah, all the bits and pieces add up. Good luck with the project!

@Mike W

What he said ^^^^^

Awesome. Glad to hear your bush is still fixed!

Yes, remove as much as possible, even with the windshield rubber lip raised it is difficult to get proper sanding and prep done so removing windshield, quarters and hatch glass will help get you a better paint job. Sanding down the top layer then painting only works well if the layers beneath it are in good condition, no bubbling, cracks, body damage. Sanding and painting over previous paint keeps the cost to the job down but can lead to a paint job that doesn't last as along.

Do it in two steps: 1. Melt some solder on the tip of the iron then place the tip under the wire in the harness. Let the wire heat up then feed solder into it. Keep the heat on it. Congrats you tinned a wire. 2. Wrap the other wire around the tinned section and do the same: Melt solder on the tip then heat the two wires while feeding solder... don't be shy on the heat time. It can take a while. Just keep the iron on the wire.

Lowspeed 55 F8 Main155 Air 160 Tube F16 Acc 45 Choke 36 But i had some problems at around 2500-3000rpms and the tuner adjusted something that made it a bit better will check tomorrow.

92. And the truck? Also a 92. What am I doing on this forum if I have a bmw (still running) and Ford (in a coma and surgery now) if you might ask? Cuz y'all were the only ones on the internet I could find that were discussing this idea at all

I use the 3M Corps weld grinding wheel with a small die grinder. You can really knock off the high spots with precision then I use the angle grinder with the sandpaper to finish it off.

You reminded me that it was 11 months on THIS vintage flat top IN 1972 that allowed me to save enough to buy the Z in 1973: USS Kitty Hawk, CVA63, Cubi Point Naval Air Station, Philipines, 1972

seeing the complexity of the dash 1st hand you have to give a lot of credit to the Vintage Dashes people. I hope they are able to continue to come up with products to support the Z community.

So basically they pick and choose what they list. They get to cherry pick; it's not really an open market. Too bad..

The dash is best fitted with the top fasten down halfway first. Then work your way down to the bottom. All screws should be left slightly lose for adjustment. Once all screws are in tighten them all down. Starting with the top and work your way down

If this was your listing, nice looking Z. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-95/ That said, I'm sure that the cracked dash, and other modifications, including later model engine swap, kept the bidding lower by those looking for a bone stock Z like the $100K example. That's the luck of draw with the auction process. Dennis

I just got done listing my 72 Z on BAT and it was not a good experience. It took them over two weeks to assign someone to my listing and them another week getting the listing right. Once I gave them the go, on July 18th, it took them until the 25th to list it. I thought it was a great car to go up against the Pierre' Z factory restoration car and told them so, but they didn't listen. I was then up again Z of lesser valve for my entire 7 days until the morning of the last day, when a the bidding takes place, and they listed a nice stock 72 Z that probably took away some of the bidders. They also tried to get me to lower my reserve, which I didn't. Luckily I already had a buyer lined up for my reserve price.

Bridgestone Turanzas are available at the Tire Rack, but not in any 14" sizes and not in any 195/70 sizes either. Tire Rack does carry a 175HR14 88H tire, the Vredestein Sprint Classic, but in my quest for authenticity, I wanted a Japanese tire for a Japanese car. Coker tire also has the Vredesteins, plus Michelien XAS tires, for 14' rims, but again, still German tires on a Japanese car... Tire Rack does have lots of choices in 195/70 14 sizes and larger.

They are evidently available in the US at the Tire Rack. I don't know if the specific size is available though

Hankook Optimo P195/7R14 90T

In Europe / the UK we have these available ... http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Bridgestone/Turanza-T005.htm Just put 195 70 14 on mine and WOW!!!! The grip is utterly stunning in the wet and in the dry I ran out of courage and wheel arch clearance before the grip did. Very good feel too without being a nuisance. Highly recommended if available where you are. I was in two minds when considering the types of cars they typically go on but on a Z they are utterly superb.

No Goodyears in that size or Yokohama's

I have been looking for 14" tires lately. I am planning on trying a 225/60R14. I ran Eagle GT's in that size in high school with out too many dramas. That way I can use the 14" wheels I've got but so far the only tire I've found is a BFGoodrich tire or a Coker that is basically the same tire. Anyone know of another brand available?

I've got Michelin defenders on mine. Great tire.

I helped a friend list and sell his Porsche 912 on BAT last December. The BAT folks were helpful with suggestions on how to best present the car with photos and video. The car was located in Southern California and the eventual BAT buyer was from England. Once the auction ends, the seller collects the cash and all shipping, border customs, and additional costs are on the buyer. In this case, the buyer and his son flew over to pay and collect the 912. They then drove it to the port in Long Beach and put it on a boat to England. It was a fairly hassle free process for my friend and he got much more than he had anticipated selling it for locally. Sometimes, self proclaimed experts on BAT post ugly comments, but his auction sale went quite well. Detailed pictures are a must and a video of the vehicle doing a cold start is often requested. Dennis

My 73 240Z bought in July '73 came with the Toyo tires. Funny some things you remember!

The original tires size on all 240Zs is 175 SR 14. I still have my original spare Bridgestone RD150 in my '73 in that size . I believe that was the most common tire fitted although I've seen some reports that Toyo tires were fitted on some. That tire size translates to a 175/80 14 tire size today. When I went looking for Bridgestones in that size for the restoration to stock condition of my car, (see the thread "We're Bringin' Back the Flattops" on classiczcars.com) I discovered that Bridgestone no longer sells that size in the US. I think there may be some manufactures that sell that size in the US, but not from any Japanese brand. HOWEVER, Bridgestone does sell that size in Australia and Europe. (Bridgestone B330 Evo 175/80 S 14s) I found a seller on the UK eBay site that would ship them (from France!) and now have them fitted to my car. About $125 each, including shipping.

I finally got around to addressing my lack of a faster idle at start, which has been the case since I acquired the car. After reading through this thread I removed my AAR to see what’s what. At about 70 degrees there was barely a sliver of a crescent shape to let air through. Hooked it up to a battery to see what happens, and nothing. No change in the shape of the crescent. Put it back in the car and ordered the 300ZX AAR part number 22660-45P00 from Courtesy at a cost of 100.66. Price has gone up. Put the new one in the car and upon startup my car now idles around 1200rpm. Success! P.S. my car is an April ’75 build date 280z California Emissions car.