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February 1972 paint after a cut and wax by an 80 year old professional. Back home... With her black satin panties on...

This just in: Hello Mark, Thank you reaching out to us. There’s a pallet of 280z dashes arriving this week. However, we are sold out for a month and expecting to have some in stock as early as September. So all of you on the wait list with deposits or prepaid should be getting your dash soon!

Thought I'd post just a few photos, including the dozen Scarabs in attendance, the largest gathering in history. There were never more than six cars at Scarab Engineering when they were in business. This was special as we reunited Brian Morrow with the very first Scarab he ever produced in late 1973. Brian was unaware the car still existed and after 43 years he saw it for the first time. It's owner had it for 34 of those years and kept it in outstanding condition. Scarabs took four top awards at the 2019 ZCON. I debuted the Scarab book I have been working on for well over two years, after finding and interviewing all the original players. The book is titled, "Resurrecting The Legend - The real Datsun Scarab Story." For those interested in a copy, they will be available for sale on eBay early next week. I have a limited number of copies left. Enjoy!

I got o2 bungs installed. So far so good. I am super rich at idle, but pretty close on higher rpms, I need to do a drive with them installed, but I have a bad noise coming from the suspension or rear end. I kind of have it narrowed down to either half shafts, driveline or something improperly installed in the rear end, everything else has been checked and re checked. This video is with the cars parking brake on. It's like a strange clunk/ click noise. I am hopeful it's something u joint, but it's such a strange noise I am scratching my head. Maybe something in the LSD? It also does it at low speeds and lots of gas pedal on and off in 1st gear and 2nd gear.

That's quite the softball you're throwing for Cliff!

I’m ready.

The head gasket/block/head combinations discussion can get convoluted. Especially if you get in to what the high power guys do to their heads to balance the cooling, drilling holes and attaching extra coolant lines. Sometimes people assume that all of the passages available need to be open and flowing as much as possible but if you follow the Nissan design path it looks like they modified the head gasket to control flow, by blocking or reducing the size of certain passages. There was a picture recently that showed it clearly with rust spots on the head gasket where the ports were blocked. So if you're mixing head and block you have some thinking to do. I've always thought that the head gasket should match the head. The head is what warps if cooling is bad, the block is essentially just a reservoir of coolant. And it's not a block gasket, it's a head gasket.

We will not find out how we did 'pointwise' until we receive the judging sheets in the mail. This typically takes a long time, maybe 3-6 months (just about the time you have forgotten about them). Jim and I both received a second judging which typically means we scored 280 or above in the first round of judging, out of 300. (300 possible: 100 points for each area; interior, exterior and engine). Neither of us were over 290 since we did not receive the Gold Medallion award. There is the possibility of going below 280 after the second judging. That is about all I know for now.

It doesn't matter how big and strong you are if you don't have a way to get leverage. Fortunately I know 50 ways to love my lever.

It worked like a charm. I tore it apart and refreshed. Rear turn lights now work on my buddy's car. Thanks again!

So when I got home this evening, the first thing I did after exchanging pleasantries with SWMBO was open up my Amazon boxes. I found the spray can of Kroil, and went out to the garage to spray the plug on the O2 sensor bung. I changed into car working clothes (Very redneck chic, I might add.) and went back into the garage. I sprayed the plug again, and then I pulled the car out of the garage (under its own power) and got it up on ramps. I looked at the access to the plug on the O2 sensor bung. It was too tight for the impact gun. The breaker bar would have to work. I got the socket on the plug, but I realized that I just couldn't get the right leverage. So what's the solution? Of course, it's a 2.5 lb hammer. I forcefully tapped on the breaker bar, and I finally saw it turn! I re-positioned the breaker bar and got another 1/8th of a turn or so. After a couple of more small movements, I decided that I didn't want to be using the breaker bar until midnight. I paused and sprayed some more Kroil on the plug. Then I fetched the long handle ratchet and put it to work...only it has a shorter handle, so I lacked leverage. So what's the solution? Of course, it's a 2.5 lb hammer. I tapped the handle of the ratchet, and it started moving the plug. I kept getting the ratchet to turn. Either the head of the plug was going to break off, or the plug was coming out. I did a quick check to verify that the plug was coming out, and soon it was done. I coated the threads of the O2 sensor with anti-sieze and installed it. I connected the O2 sensor and got the car running. It runs a LOT better with the O2 sensor installed. I reattached the choke cables since I found I still need them when the car is cold. I have the throttle bodies adjusted, though the idle is high. On the other hand, the idle was high with the carburetors, too. Now I need to button things up and pick up a $4!+load of tools scattered about in my garage. Then I can do a test drive.

The SU whisperer pointed to several potential contributing factors. The performance cam was milled from a CWC core. Apparently, CWC has a bad reputation. That engine should of had an internal oiler, but the cam shaft did not have provisions for that so an external oiling tube was installed. Since exhaust cams for 1, 2, and 3 cylinders were worn out, perhaps, the front half of the oiler tube became clogged.

A little more engine bling. Couldn’t resist the beginner badge!

Zexy!

She sure looks good Cliff! Nice car cover.

You probably want ~34 degrees total. The mechanical advance will give you 17 of that 34 so setting at 17 at low rpms will work well. btw Cranking is tougher the more you advance. 17 is bearable.

If you got a second round of judging in the Stock Class - at a National Convention - that says quit a lot. Great Job!! Carl B.

I sent Schneider Cams an original Nissan cam that has "JAPAN" stamped on it after reading about the failures of those CWC cams they will send you if you let them. You might look at Schneider or isky's web site. They have a few different profiles for our cars at a lot better price, send your rockers to Delta Cams for resurfacing. Cost $50, $3 per - $36 plus $14 shipping.

Ok thanks! Do you run the ballast resistor too? I didn't think about the cap and rotor. I'll check tonight and see if mine fit by chance.

Given that the top one came from a 280Z, it means that all S30's came with hatch struts with a fork at the end of the shaft.

So last night I could remove the rear wheel lug nuts with just the parking brake on and the rear end jacked up! Now that is something I never thought I was going to be able to do!

I just got word from the shop: "I’ve been talking to my camshaft contact. He grinds a slightly less aggressive cam for your car. The cam itself will cost around $450. We will also need new rockers and lash pads. They cost between $400 and $500 depending on what thickness pads are required. I’m looking at around 10 hours labor to remove and replace, and setup the geometry of the new cam. I will also change the oil & filter when I’m finished. So your looking at $1800 to $2000 if no problems show up after the cam is removed." I ask that he try to avoid having to do a valve job if at all possible since I'd be looking at an additional $500 or more.

Personally, I wouldn't buy anything with an aftermarket sunroof. I'm out.

While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary. Edit: It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

But did you find my spring?

Ahhh, the BFH to the rescue once more. One of my favorite tools. Had a mechanic tell me once about how to remove a stubborn bolt that I was beating on and would not budge. He said " Get a bigger hammer". It worked.

Oh well, the dash is installed now and everything is working.

Well, any potential rodent issues have been dealt with.

Exactly. I was just adding to the lack of clarity. For amusement.

Here's a little teaser for the book (front and back covers). Looks now like I should be able to begin shipping this weekend for those who expressed interest.

The flat top contingent takes the top two spots placing 1st and 2nd in the stock 240Z category. The outclassed round tops just can't compete.

Motorman7 is more than a Datsun expert, he is the Fountain of Youth, who made me 24 years old again! (with key work by Datsun paint expert Miguel). I am incredibly grateful to him for enabling me to recreate that wonderful feeling getting a brand new 240Z - the car I knew even in 1973 that I would keep forever. This is not a car to be sold, but to be enjoyed and driven. Although we will try to show it off for a while, so everyone can see how a heavily used Z can be made new again by a knowledgeable and dedicated lover of Datsuns. Thanks Motorman7! Now for a road trip!