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https://uk.motor1.com/news/313815/datsun-240z-modernized-video/

FACEBOOK SUCKS! HIDING DATA BEHIND A WALL AND MAKING SURE IT DISAPPEARS! WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE FALL FOR THE BS.... IT IS LIKE DRIVING AN AUTOMATIC Z!!!!!! WEAK!!!!

It's fine. Just bolt it on!!!

I might be a little bit biased but I think if Nissan put the original 240z design back into production they would sell million of them. Update the suspension, brakes and electronics but leave the exterior exactly as it was.

You guys are terrific.....no more noise! Best part is the advice was free.....and that’s a good deal at twice the price!!!!! Thanks again Jim.

But any Oring large enough to slip over the shifter housing wouldn't be tight enough to prevent oil from seeping out. The oil up in that area is just from splash with no pressure, if dropping the trans is out of the question then you might get away with some simple packing. You could try a length of kitchen cord or felt wound tightly around the gap between the trans and shifter housing and see if you can push it forward into the recess where the failed Oring is in the trans housing. You only need something to wipe the oil off of the rod. Might be worth a try.

Iv'e been watching first season (1977 I think) CHiP's episodes on Amazon and there's so many awesome cars on the freeways and general traffic. So far Iv'e seen at least five S30's. One thing I thought was funny was that gasoline stations had prices of 57 cents per gallon. I remember when my dad was furious when it hit $1.00.

working on getting a setup to fire up the spare engine.

Newly rebuilt radiator. Probably the best part on the whole car. I need to get a thermostat and the cap that houses it, the cap is cracked, any ideas where I can get the cap/radiator hose to block connector?

If the idle and cruise are good with the RH then you could taper stations 6 to 14 to make a sweet custom needle!

Thanks, no prob. I've got that winter bug as well... been the worst winter here in decades, and now the potholes... oh the potholes.... everywhere. The Z won't see the road for a long time. And my daily driver is literally rusting away by the day lol.

I installed a set of RH needles and they ran lean (16 to 17 APR) on WOT on numerous test runs. Went back to SB needles. There are a few rich spots on the SB needles (cruise is around 13.5), so dropped the needle shoulder down so even with bottom of piston. This kept the WOT numbers on target (13 to 13.5) and the cruise numbers are closer to 14. Will test further, but pleased so far! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

They are parallel to the ground.

Well now you have unleashed the meanest, baddest, fastest beast in your herd.... and it will put a smile on your face once you get it on the road. Most notably, after you drive a z for a few hours then pop into another car, you immediately miss the torque. Congratulations!!!

got the sparkler working

It is linear but over a very short range. 606-52 "Euro" distributor mechanical ~12degrees is all in at 1000rpm D6K8 280zx distributor mechanical ~17degrees is all in at 1250rpm

It will work just fine. Ford Model A's (and others) had a lever on either side of the steering wheel. One for ignition timing, the other was a throttle. Are you going to mount it next to the choke?

Jeff, the vac advance problem is easily solved, You can take manifold vacuum and run it via a solenoid controlled by a micro switch on the throttle, what you are looking for is to cut off the vacuum at idle. it will simulate ported vacuum just fine. been there, done that, worn off the t shirt.

Some guys in your country did a lot of dyno pulls to compare carbs to EFI and also advance on a 510. The results were not significantly different.... either this is the finding or they did not test properly.

And then there is this ... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201984173362 I have one and it's very useful.

Maybe a way to come up with a price is to first figure out what Eiji at Datsun Spirit or Dave Rebello would charge for a similar engine with similar hp numbers. Once you know that, I would think you also have to realistically know that the likelihood that you can charge the same as a proven engine builder is pretty slim....regardless of how nicely done your engine is. After that maybe you figure out what the discount is from a proven builder's price. In the end the market will determine what someone is willing to pay.

I run a 10.5:1 comp L28 with a very ported head and large valves + high lift cam on twin Z therapy SUs with SM needles, mech fuel pump only. Had the same problem as you before I went for a rolling road tune where they reprofiled the needles - it most certainly is no longer running lean!!!! The mech fuel pump is plenty man enough for the job.

I'd try driving it if looks roadworthy and it's been driven recently. A shop manual, basic tool kit, mechanics wire, and duck tape should get you back to Sacto.

That pan has internal baffles allowing oil to be sucked up into the engine even when the car is traversing a hard corner. I have had one in my street and race car for over 15 years. My dad ruined a nearly new Cadillac engine attempting to get a glider airborne - race down the runway, not fast enough, hard left turn, fast down the runway, over and over again. The dealer says he never had an engine fail so quickly after purchase.

I vote for go for it. Watch the gauges. Don't let it overheat. Make sure the alternator is charging. Stop and check fluids every hour or two. It will be an adventure for you and your future wife. Stories... Too soon to be mundane. No offense to the cautious folks. There are probably some Z oriented shops along the way. Get their info and make the trip during business hours.

Nada on the vinyl. I think it's angle of reflectance with the dark background showing in the roof. In all honesty, it's more than likely a fake ad created just for that commercial. Copyright stuff and all. Maybe someone associated with production owns that car and put their dream price on it along with "low miles" as an inside joke? I would have....?

The spacers match the hubs and are designated with a latter showing the size range they are in. Most hubs are the same, "B" I believe. Check the letters on your hubs. If they are the same then mixing up the spacers just moved the play from one side to the other. So swapping them would just move the play back to the other side. A better way to make sure things are right is to measure the spacers and the hubs before assembly. And the axles do have some play. About 6 thousandths.

if that was just a short time run, seems too rich. Those insulators should come out nearly white. I suspect an overly rich condition. I recommend the FPR test (pressure engine off, pressure eng on, gas leak from vacuum line, then the Temp Sensor Test, then the CSV (make sure its not leaking for firing, prob warm enough that it should not).

Ah, Phoebe Cates

Loss of signal on the oil pressure switch. Your oil pressure sender has two posts. One goes to the oil pressure gauge. That one will have variable resistance. The other post is linked to a switch. When you have enough oil pressure, the switch closes and provides a path to ground. It's a way of killing the fuel pump if the engine stops running. A bad sender or low oil pressure in the engine could cause the pump to cut out.

Meaning that this response is, in a nutshell, almost everything one needs to navigate the world of electronic diagnostics. No need for a manual. Wasn't trying to insinuate that the response was too lengthy. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Jeez, I'm just going to copy and paste this to a word document, print it, and tape it to the wall. If you don't mind of course. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

The luggage stop moldings are, however, a little different now than they used to be. They are wider than the one example I have, and Chloe says they are even wider than later examples she has seen. Go figure. Looks nice, though :classic: .

No, there's a rolled over metal beaded edge. I chucked it up in a lathe and cut the bead off just as exploratory surgery. Sorry if I gave you any false hope. It's an autopsy.