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The engine and other early goodies are off to their new owner in Ontario. Sale is closed. He has been informed of "our' existence and will hopefully make an appearance. He is restoring a 69 build date Z. On a related note, the buyer shopped for various shipping companies to move the palette bearing the engine (and other related items), and found FastFreight to be the cheapest. Within Canada only, but to give you an idea, the quote for a standard palette holding 400 lbs from Calgary to Toronto-ish was under $200. Others were asking north of $800. All I had to do was strap the engine and other items to the palette and make the call to schedule the pickup. We'll see how 'fast' they are and what shape things are in when they arrive.

Wish you were closer to me than about 200 miles and in the winter, I'd come have a look at it. Verify spark when it's cranking, get a long screwdriver or some kind of listening tube to put against your ear & each injector, again while someone cranks it to check the injectors are clicking. Double check the firing order of the wires. (153624) Pull a couple of plugs to see what they look like as others have mentioned. Could be something as simple as a worn ignition switch good in the start, but not working in the run position when you release the key. Easy to unplug and temporarily change. If necessary, depending on what you find, I can send you a good spare I have to eliminate that possibility.

No problem. I edited the topic and updated the link to the file download in your first message. I also added a link to this thread from the download details. Thanks for supporting the file and keeping it updated!

Yep, I completely agree. I have been thinking the same thing. Even though I love the look of some JDM cars, I’d probably be castraded by the Z community for cutting up a perfectly good seriers one Z. Lol. So I’m just going lowering springs and KYB. I can always adjust from there.

That helps alot! I really needed that manual, it really explains everything pretty simple, ill do those tests, I just got myself a new multimeter and test light

275 and 300lb/in springs are going to be really stiff, and those shocks are likely matched to them. Having seen your other thread, it sounds like this isn't a car you want to cut up too much. Get some basic springs and shocks that you can just install without cutting/welding your strut tubes, so that you can easily go back to stock if you want to.

He spilled a bunch on his paint. Wonder if he'll show the result. Actually brake fluid is an organic chemical. It absorbs water but it's not "water-based" like some paints. It will attack paint but it's not abrasive. It is flammable, but probably less so than diesel fluid. So it probably did end up in the catalytic converter. http://winona.safeschoolssds.com/document/repo/7f33da14-e886-469e-bc05-6c8e5bfb424c

I know where! I know where! Full disclosure. It's painted gold, not plated. Easy to fix... Looking closer, I see it's not exactly the same as the one in the picture. No little flat 90 deg bracket on the 2nd last support brace.... Somewhere, somewhere...

Arrrrrr!!!

www.240zrubberparts.com I am making a new batch of parts over the next few days....

Love that sewing machine!

thats not the best way. get a meter and do the proper tests in order. make a list and write the numbers down dont do pass-fail, real numbers

You're probably thinking of "corrosive". Brake fluid is a good solvent so after it causes the paint to peel off it cleans the metal then absorbs moisture. Rust city.

This is a good one. Checking voltage at the coil with the key on would show that. This story has gone the typical route of 280Z EFI problems. Try the quick fixes, poke here, pull there, but in the end the OP needs to get a volt meter or test light and check the basics. No meter, slow progress.

Mine were from via/through the Harrington group in Great Britain. Manufacture was in Vietnam. One piece rear, no holes. Fitment and quality were as close to perfect as you could ask for. Price then was $1150 shipped to me in western Canada. This was back in 2012 I believe.

I have a Felpro on my 280, no issues since 2012. You can buy just the HG from local chain stores. Nonstocking but next day usually. I bought mine from Advance.

They apply to all S30's. They will work, although the plastic housing is somewhat different---your photo of the screw housing ( I assume from your 10/70 car) does not fully enclose the threaded portion of the adjusting screw---which I find interesting as my 7/70 had the fully enclosed type.

Do you have the numbers matching motor? How complete is it? Maybe it would be good to take a bunch of photos so we can get a good idea of what you have, and the condition of it, and the guys here can offer you some guidance from there. Also, go into more detail on what you want to do with it. Shocks and lowering springs are easy to reverse, so are wheels, or a front air dam. You could easily keep the old parts on a shelf should you ever want to sell it or return it to stock. More permanent modifications, such as weld on coilovers, or fender mirrors, or anything that requires drilling, cutting, or welding is another matter.

Started the carb re-assembly now that I have freshly plated parts. This is actually a lot of fun to re-assemble using the new gasket kits. Fortunately, I have a spare set of flat tops to look at to make sure that everything goes together right. Also have the 'upgrade' guide. Replaced all the gaskets on the pump assembly. Interestingly, it looks like the original one was folded over as you can see in the last pic. Choke mechanism works nice. My throttle shafts are supposed to be ready tomorrow with fresh dry film lube. Should be able to finish things out once I get those.

Captain Obvious I did check as you said. the blinkers do not come on ,I'm guessing that means that the other side of the relay is bad, I'll need to find a way to replace it. One of the fusible links is bad as well. I'll need to find a place to replace those. I was wondering about an old school temp fix. remember in the day those fuse links that were in car stereo's fuse in the middle good wiring? Do those work interim or is that just a bad idea? Put a 20 or 30 amp fuse in it? wal280z I have not had time yet to check the wires, I most certainly will be doing that Saturday when I can get out in the sunlight. Thank you. I'll let you know how that goes. Thanks again for the help, I'll report back on Sunday.

can you hear the fuel injectors clicking while cranking (listen with a mech stethoscope)? are the plugs wet or dry after attempting to start? Just wondering since someone has been messing with the ignition (should not be points) perhaps the ECU is not getting the signal to fire the injectors.

Jayhawk, My first 240Z I bought when I was in college. It was a '72 with a build date of 12/71. At some point, one of the prior owners installed an L26 engine with flat tops. It was actually a pretty quick car, but it had some vapor lock issues during the summer months. I had the car for about 3 years before I sold it. The other 240Zs that I've owned since then all had round tops and I only experienced a couple of summer vapor locking incidents. My past personal experience plus all the discussion in the Z community and on this website ( member since 2004) has led me to believe that flat tops are inferior to the round tops.

Yes I looked there but they don’t have it

I don't think it's a matter of prioritizing the V8's over the L6's as much as a design change that improved the fit for one and had little impact on the other. That said, there is room for improvement in the design, and credit to Silvermine, he is looking at modifying the plate to accommodate both with no negative impacts.

If I recall correctly, Tom and his son Tommy? did the machining work for me several years ago. They did a very nice thorough job balancing the engine.

talked to the guy from Amtex, seems to know L28's very well. Will prob go there. I mentioned I belonged to z forums, he says he has done work for Z guys before.

And for anyone getting ready to print out a big copy of revision "M" to hang on their garage wall.... Don't do that right now. There have been some recently discovered issues in Rev "M" and I believe there will be a Revision "N" coming out soon to fix those issues. So if you can hold off for a little bit, do so!

I got one of their catalogs when I was in Japan and man I wish I had known them before rebuilding my engine. I'm still drooling over the JDM taillight they sell. (Not because jdm just that I think it looks better with yellow turn signals) So they are producing replacement S20 heads huh? I am still looking into getting a rb30e head to try and modify into that cross flow LY head Nissan produced. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Folks, please let me use this thread to possibly put this subject to rest. Datsun called it a Cushion Battery and the part # was 24480-E4600. It has been No Longer Available for more than 25 years. It is my opinion that Nissan decided to use such a thing as they simply didn't like the idea of 2 metal surfaces making contact. A little like the 240 rear bumper end brackets. When Nissan started the Z Store program they commissioned Banzai Motorworks to reproduce it and a whole slew of NLA parts for use in the program. They stole/hired a quality control engineer from Boeing to make sure that what they bought from Banzai was correct in every way. Wonder what became of her? Although the picture is a bit unclear - I hate to take such a rare part out of the original bag - a New Old Stock cushion is on the left and the reproduction on the right. Be careful - there are those who have probably never seen the real deal selling what they claim is an accurate reproduction - beware. The cushion and battery frame were held to the firewall by the fasteners shown in the second picture. They are a 6mm x 23mm long Phillips hex bolt with a captive lock washer in clear zinc. The flat washer is 6mm with an OD of 18mm in yellow zinc. Cheers

Beautiful...