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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. Simple front and rear strut bars are not going to turn the flexible Z chassis into a stiff car. I would suggest you log onto HybridZ and search for what people have done with chassis reinforcement, and what is suitable for a street car, as that subject has been covered many times there with lots of discussion. How do you intend to use the car and what do you expect from it? You're in Germany so I would think the car will have to stay fairly stock. Here is the late John Coffey's list of reinforcements for a street car: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. Doing all of that would be a lot of effort, I'd probably look into numbers 2, 4, 5, 8, 10, and 12. The reinforcements you posted would serve the purpose of number 10.
  2. With the value of 2+2s being relatively low, and the cost and effort of welding in a new floor plan and frame rail (if it does in fact need the whole floor vs just a patch), I think I would probably sell it as is and let the new owner do the repairs. I also suspect the car has more rust than just this area pictured, that rust hole has been brewing for a while.
  3. It'll be 15 years here for me too at the end of the month, although for most of that time I was more active on HybridZ. Started coming on here more a few years ago.
  4. I'm not sure why they don't make it more clear or offer them as a set, but yes, you order a set of front and rear frame rails, weld them together, and install in the car. I'm sure there's a thread on HybridZ that shows how they go in, they were a pretty popular item.
  5. Subframe connectors are the first thing that comes to mind for me. Available here: https://baddogparts.com/ Might want to browse Hybridz.org if you're looking to modify and do some chassis work as that site is geared more to that sort of thing. A full roll cage is off the table if you want to street drive the car though, unless you want to wear a helmet every time you drive it.
  6. My experience with Tabco parts has been that they don't tend to fit well. Reports on quality from those who have bought from KlassicFab have been very good. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/rear-hatch-slam-panel-datsun-240z/
  7. They're only on the series one cars. They had the tools located behind plastic covers just ahead of where the tool boxes are. Presumably someone realized there was some dead space there that could be used to put the tools in and did that instead for the next run of cars.
  8. Shame to see this thread go off the rails. The 'no' response was a bit curt, but whatever, not a huge deal. As for boasting, I think that's ridiculous. OP got himself a nice car and was excited to share, is that not what this forum is for? I think it'd be good if a mod would prune this thread back, and we could all just move on. Would be good if OP would put his pics back up. Just ignore the guy complaining.
  9. If you need a gofundme to pay for your sports car, you can't afford it. Most of the time I see people posting a gofundme its because they are in a dire or otherwise undesirable situation, not because they've purchased a luxury item and want to pay for things related to that. Poor taste and IMO an abuse of the site.
  10. That was my thought too. I would think leaving a drain hole in the bottom would be enough to take care of that. The only concern then is stuff getting in through the drain hole in the bottom, which I don't think would be very easy, but I'm sure might still happen to a small degree.
  11. The issue with clearance is likely the 5mph crash bumper supports, which could simply be trimmed off since they're not really needed if you're not running the impact bumpers, or intending on ever returning to them. I think this is what you're looking for: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1402
  12. I can't imagine anything but the urethane air dam being able to bend like that without breaking, so I'm assuming that's the urethane air dam. You need to just lay it out in the sun, since they're flexible they tend to fold them up to ship them.
  13. While I am hardly an expert on the topic, I know enough to know that's exactly what you don't do when breaking in a motor. I'd be questioning the credibility of the engine builder if he told me that, and would likely ignore his instructions.
  14. You registered two weeks ago, youve got 14 posts, and you're asking us how one would steal a Z?
  15. Looks like Auto Panel Solutions in the UK makes a panel for that, although it doesn't look to be identical, if that's what your standard is. https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/
  16. It'll probably say somewhere in his build thread here: https://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961.html
  17. It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts.
  18. I would never put a solid diff mount on a street car. It would help if you told us why you can't use the OEM mount and what your car's setup is. A popular option is the Ron Tyler diff mount, a version of which can be found for sale here: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html
  19. What year is that 280 pedal box? Might be important to note given that the 280Z saw a lot of changes for the 77 model year, I don't know if the pedal box was one of them.
  20. What kind of car are you looking for, in terms of condition? Perfect and original? What kind of repairs are you willing to do? Although there a few questionable spots, particularly the rear bumper, I really didn't think that one was very bad, and it's unlikely you'll find one that needs nothing.
  21. See my reply above since I've edited it since you posted. Also, I've had a couple Zs, and they don't necessarily have perfect body gaps. The area between the front door and the fender right at the top seems like it has a tendency to be larger relative to the rest of the body line there. Maybe the front fender was messed with, who knows. Go see the car in person with someone who knows what they're looking at. Edit: However, that rear bumper should not be that crooked. I'd look hard at that area.
  22. You're comparing a 240 to a 280 which has bigger rails. I'd need a better photo to say for sure, since there does look to be weld toward the front of the 280, but forward of that part, the rails are clearly stock, you can see the flange of the factory rail and it looks to be untouched. Unless there is a seam where the light is hitting the rail, then I'm left to conclude the rails are stock. Again, better photos are needed. As for the paint, I think it's just how the sun is hitting it. it matches above the pinstriping, and if you look down at the bottom of the dogleg, just above the body line, again, the colors on the quarter and the door are matching. Nico needs to go see it in person with his own eyes, and ideally, with an experienced friend, and see what is actually there or not.
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