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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. It'll probably say somewhere in his build thread here: https://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961.html
  2. It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts.
  3. I would never put a solid diff mount on a street car. It would help if you told us why you can't use the OEM mount and what your car's setup is. A popular option is the Ron Tyler diff mount, a version of which can be found for sale here: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html
  4. What year is that 280 pedal box? Might be important to note given that the 280Z saw a lot of changes for the 77 model year, I don't know if the pedal box was one of them.
  5. What kind of car are you looking for, in terms of condition? Perfect and original? What kind of repairs are you willing to do? Although there a few questionable spots, particularly the rear bumper, I really didn't think that one was very bad, and it's unlikely you'll find one that needs nothing.
  6. See my reply above since I've edited it since you posted. Also, I've had a couple Zs, and they don't necessarily have perfect body gaps. The area between the front door and the fender right at the top seems like it has a tendency to be larger relative to the rest of the body line there. Maybe the front fender was messed with, who knows. Go see the car in person with someone who knows what they're looking at. Edit: However, that rear bumper should not be that crooked. I'd look hard at that area.
  7. You're comparing a 240 to a 280 which has bigger rails. I'd need a better photo to say for sure, since there does look to be weld toward the front of the 280, but forward of that part, the rails are clearly stock, you can see the flange of the factory rail and it looks to be untouched. Unless there is a seam where the light is hitting the rail, then I'm left to conclude the rails are stock. Again, better photos are needed. As for the paint, I think it's just how the sun is hitting it. it matches above the pinstriping, and if you look down at the bottom of the dogleg, just above the body
  8. Frame rails look standard to me. Need a lot more photos to really get a good sense of the car's condition but from what you've posted it looks fine to me. I do see a patch at the front of the driver's floor, and it does looks like there's a weld seam on the frame rail in that area, but I'm not sure if that's what it is since I only see one weld, and no actual patch. Also looks to be a patch on the passenger side under the seat. Need better photos of that area.
  9. I would think carefully about any mod that requires drilling holes or cutting. The spoilers will require drilling holes in your hatch, and the L28ET swap may also, since putting a later 5 speed in an early car typically requires additional clearance at the front side of the shifter cut out. Hard to say what else will be necessary to run wiring, mount intercooler, oil cooler, additional gauges, etc.
  10. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99017-240z-rack-into-280z/
  11. I'm far from an expert, but I've broken in two engines now, including one recently, so the info is fairly fresh in my mind, and my understanding is that the window of opportunity to set the rings is within maybe 50 to 100 miles. During the break in process you don't want to take it easy (except at first). Previously the thought was that you have to baby your engine for the first thousand miles, which from what I've read is the opposite of what you want to do. Cylinder pressure will force the rings out toward the cylinder walls, thus breaking them in and creating a good seal, so based on my res
  12. That would make sense. I saw those too, and thought to myself "that would be a great place to tie a roll bar into the roof".
  13. What kind of L28 are you looking for? That's an L28 turbo. That also seems like a ton of money for a longblock that needs a rebuild. I'd look on craigslist or the FB classifieds, not ebay.
  14. That seems like an awful lot of work when you could just sell your tank and buy the correct tank, either used, or new, since there is now a company making new ones, although I don't know if they're making the ones that are exactly identical to a '76 tank since the fuel tanks changed a bit over the years from 70-76. I would also greatly prefer a full size spare over a space saver.
  15. Deleting cookies for HybridZ fixed the problem for me. Edit: Nevermind, I logged back in and it's back to 500 server error.
  16. The emblem holes will be different, and as mentioned, maybe some extra tabs for the fender liners. There's two kinds of 280Z doors, 75/76 and 77/78. 75/76 are pretty similar to 240z doors, but I think there may be some slight differences in mounts for the arm rests (not sure, never checked), and of course the door beams. 77/78 doors are completely different, and while they may bolt up, the shape of the door jamb in 77/78 cars is different, and IIRC even the latches are different. I wouldn't bother with them if you have an earlier car.
  17. As I recall, the beams in orange were added in the later cars to deal with the added weight of the larger fuel tank, and probably the general increase in weight the cars had by then. Earlier cars didn't have them, and it's possible you could remove them without consequence. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but I'm not convinced the structure would be any worse off than a 70-76 car.
  18. First one is BMW Monte Carlo Blue. Second one I'm quite certain is factory 115 blue. It's a fairlady owned by a member here, although he's more active on instagram https://www.instagram.com/autootaku/
  19. What a fantastic car to start with. I doubt there's many original cars left in that condition. You might try this process to remove the yellowing from the plastics, such as your expansion tank, since you've got the early plastic one. Not sure what differences there might be in the plastic you have to work with versus what was used in the video.
  20. It has definitely been worked on. Welds near where it slopes up toward the roof, flat surface. Home made patch panel, I'd say.
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