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I took my Z out today to visit a friend's new warehouse. It might be the last night driving day of the year, so I wanted to take advantage of it. As several of us sat around swapping stories, photos and videos, I admired the view in front of me and decided to take a photo.

You guys are too much. I’ll think I’ll bead it...

All this started with a pic of Bruce's auto-Darthening hood.

Arc the herald angels sing Driving gloves...

The ONLY website I can recommend for doing any kind of adjustment to the afm is atlanticz. Many thanks to @240260280z for putting in all the effort and sharing. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ One piece of advice. I have four of these afm's, all from different years 1976 to 1982 and only one was off (given some tolerences in meassuring) when I followed the steps mentioned in the "water calibration". The glue on the screw was also clearly tampered with. Someone had played with it before. Do the water calibration CHECK before you start adjusting. Btw: Contrary to what some people my think, this is not aperformance adjustment. It will make the engine run in tune, but decreasing the spring tension to mislead the ecu won't give you more horsepower. If you have problems with "ECU drift", there is a modification in the temperature sensor resistance to compensate for that. The only real differences I know of in the 75 to 77 AFM's is the blow back valve in the early version/Fed version. The very early 12-74 to 06-75 are actually Bosch units. Some photo's of one of my afm's and the calibration check.

It is considered a HVRP , high volume reduced pressure gun. Apparently most HVLP guns require 12-14 cfm from the compressor, mine tops out at 11.7cfm so this DeVilbiss FLG5 only requires 9.8cfm and comes with a 1.4 and 1.8 needles and caps. Should cover the use of 2k primmer, single stage, base and clear. Now I just have to learn how to paint

A guy with a youtube channel about cars contacted me awhile ago about shooting my car for an episode. Got the result a couple of days ago. He has added subtitles in english but he misses a couple of things in translation so don’t take it to serious, i have told him so hopefully he will correct them.

I have a good one in another car, I just need to pluck it before I sell the car. Thanks for the offer though.

Yes, the bolt pattern is a known thing. MSA mentions it, and shows the other bracket on the bottom of their AFM page. I've seen people zip tie them in place. Somebody with free time, a leaf blower, a battery, and a meter must have the urge to compare AFM's. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040

A little work on the intake porting today... The porting is actually right on. The slight bright ring in the “down the throat” shot is reflection off the bevel into the intake.

I’ll take them....thanks. I’ve pm’ed you.

HS30-00034 It was given UK road registration (license plate) 'UAR 603J' and eventually embarked on a career as a race car in the 'Post Historic Road Sports Championship' during the early 1980s with owner/driver Ian Pearce, and later in the HSCC's (largely stock) Roadsports Championship in the hands of ex-BMC works driver Peter Riley and his son Tim. Tim Riley undertook a major rebuild/update in the late 1990s/Millenium period, with more extreme modifications for different racing classes. In mid to late 2002 the car had a big accident and required yet another build, but the comprehensive roll cage protected the 'shell and it was saved after being pulled straight on a jig. I supplied some of the panels. I'm not sure where the car is now. I heard that Tim took it with him to New Zealand some years ago.

He prefers a Schlitz. It's pouring down outside. I'll be here all day too.

I’ll take that under advisorment

A shady character for sure.

Weld done

What??? You went over my helmet??

Royal Club Shandy: Beer Advocate's rating? 1.65 out of 5 (Awful) Sounds like the perfect beverage to use for the AFM calibration check!

Jim, Here's a '73 240Z located in Amarillo, a little over 300 miles from Dallas. It's not just a shell, but looks to be a complete, non-running car: https://amarillo.craigslist.org/cto/d/amarillo-3-datsun-nissan-240z/6747366114.html

Thank you Santa.

I must've gotten onto the nice list.

There is no indication of the manufacturer, or a "dot" lable or anything like that in any of the corners? Without it being clean so it can be examined for pitting, windshield wiper marks, etc, I've got to pass. Thanks for your efforts though.

70/30 would make all tyres stop evenly. 50/50 and you would have the rears lock before the front due to weight transfer. I learned very quickly during my drifting days when you are sliding backwards and stomp the brake the fronts lock up and just drag (similar to when you pull the handbrake when you are going forward). The quickest way to pull up when you are sliding backwards is to pull the handbrake which essentially flips the bias.

Wow, been so long since I posted, just been swamped with daddy duty. ? But 5 speed is in and is the bees knees man! I love being able to cruise on the freeway at 70 and not be at 4300 RPM. Z car has been running strong since 2017 ZCON and not batted an eye for any kind of Issues. Very proud of her. My roadster was selected to be in a rare cars of Houston display at the Houston Auto Show in January. I have been busy detailing her. Which leads me to my question. I am trying to get off that black RTV like adhesive you use to secure rubber trim. It is really thick around the entire windscreen and I need to get it all off. It is sitting on paint, so I cannot use brass brushes or the like unless I want to commit to repainting the windscreen. Which I really would rather avoid. How do you get old RTV/adhesive off paint without chemicals that would destroy the paint.

Helped a friend's Z: - Valve adjust: now idles like a sewing machine - Find a clunk: one rear differential to moustache bar stud and bold went AWOL.

Got the engine fired this weekend, resolved brake issues and a few other misc items. Will readjust valves tomorrow and tackle a few electrical gremlins, I don’t plan to paint the car but am planning on shooting the underside of the hood and bottoms of the front fenders. After that I hope to get the car on the road and put some miles on her.

Designed and I’m in the process of printing some wheel caps. Laser cut the logos in acrylic. Caps printed in TEPG filament.

Cut out my strut towers Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Storage time closing in. New cam, probobly also a new head, a new transmission and new clutch going in to.

Balance tube shaved and intake cleaned up, things slowly going back together. Just when I think I have everything I discover a missing gasket, bolt etc. Installed the new heater valve and hoses, yesterday, boy was that fun, I think I lost 5 pounds doing that. Exhaust going on tomorrow.