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They are not Nissan quarters. Blue shows pictures of the correct NOS panels. I used have about 50-75 sets of these aftermarket panels. They do install very well as compared to Tabco panels. I probably have some of the original cardboard wrappings but they're at my other garage. I think they were made in Taiwan. Chuck

Blechhh...

Who made them? Any markings or tags? Factory replacements I used did not look like those.

I recently completed a throttle cable conversion on my 77 280Z. Combined with my new throttle body, it's smooth as can be. Without going into all the gory details, here's some pics. Here's an overview pic. Cable come through the bulkhead and swerves a soft S-bend towards the master cylinders. This allows some slack in the cable to account for engine movement while running. It also allows clearance for the EGR valve if you are running one. My PO removed mine, but I may reinstall at some point so I wanted the cable to clear. Top level overview: Here's the bulkhead passthrough. I made a threaded adapter and sealing nut on the lathe. The flats allow me to get wrenches on the passthrough from the engine compartment so I don't have to use tools up under the dash. This is the second passthrough I made... First one had the tightening nut on the other side under the dash. It worked fine, but was a real PITA to tighten with wrenches up under there. So I spun it around and made another one with the installation direction reversed:. Don't mind the loose A/C grommet: Here's another pic of the firewall passthrough. In this pic, you can see how the cable is held into the passthrough. The metal ring is crimped into a hex and that clamps down on the cable sheath holding it in place. Since the sheath is pretty much always in compression, it doesn't have to be a hard lock, but it's nice that the sheath is a decent friction fit into the passthrough. Yes, that's a cable RG-6 crimp tool used for cable TV and Ethernet. I got lucky and it works great for what I was doing: Under the dash, I converted over to a different connection design on the pedal. I purchased an already messed up pedal from someone with a failed cable conversion. He had already removed the original ball stud, so I drilled the hole out to the correct size to tap with threads and ran a tap through. I also made an "L" bracket adapter to attach to a Honda Civic throttle cable. I ground a little off the end of the pedal to get the angles right, and... Here's the parts separate: Another pic showing my original pedal next to my modified version. Here's the parts put together. A little blue threadlock on the bolt and it looks like this: So out in the engine compartment for the termination end at the throttle body, I made a bracket that mounts where my AAR used to attach. I have switched over to a different throttle body and the AAR is no longer needed so those holes were re-purposed for my cable bracket: And here's another pic of the bracket up by the throttle body. Note that doing it this way also allows me to adjust the throttle cable play extremely easy using the original Civic adjustment nuts: I'll talk about the cable itself in a little bit.

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-46120627

@Captain Obvious If you're feeling OCD, you could send me that bracket and bolts during the salt season and I can make it pretty for you!

Paint thinner is used to clean up Aircraft stripper. when it comes into contact with the thinner it becomes very rubbery and is essentially neutralized. I don't think I would try to strip just one layer of paint with aircraft stripper, because even if a layer doesn't come off it seems to be softer from the applied stripper. Mark, I love the look of factory metal after the paint is removed. Just think, that is how the panels looked in the factory 42 years ago! (Give or take)

Here's a good shot Mr Beck. Thanks @240260280

My hoover bag is not yet filled... here is other dust and dirt that was collected:

I'm done here. I posted a reasonable suggestion of why the OP may not have had the info on the prior seller, but since then the OP has indicated that he knows the name and the former, key word being FORMER address of the prior owner and that information has been withheld due to the OP's concern of privacy issues (I agree) , but that lack of information continues to be an excuse of why the accusations have continued. @M3333hp I understand the desire to track the HISTORY of the vehicle currently in your ownership. Other than following what Carl Beck stated with a PI, you could spend countless hours searching here for your car from the former owner(s). I myself, like to help people. One thing I have learned though, is that if I don't have first hand knowledge, I stay out of the conversation unless specifically tagged. I won't post unverified information. Sure, it's posted on CZCC, but did you verify it? Do you own that model car? Sometimes posting unverified information leads one in a misdirection. (Post #3) I'm guilty of it. I don't do that anymore. Guess that's part of the reason I don't have a high post count. Lastly, I apologize for misdirection on the use of the "@' symbol. When using the '@' symbol, the poster needs to type a few letters of the user name and click on that user's name in order to 'tag' them by the 'blue box' and send an email. @wal280z

You did make TWO sets of these, yes? You KNOW I need this, yes? ???

This is where I get accosted by 60+ year old folks at a gas station or in traffic who say "I used to have one of those" or "My friends Dad drove one". Great to see a gathering of S30s like that.

Clark thought his was bad...

You assume I haven't been reading the thread this entire time, and that somehow, if I were to go back and read the beginning, I might somehow change my mind. I've read all the same posts that you did and nothing in a single one of them made me think he might be tampering with something.

... there's always more rust....

You can't just imply that someone is tampering with a VIN tag, or withholding pertinent info like they're intentionally hiding something and not expect them to be annoyed. You've done this before, in the thread by 87mj, and now you're doing it again, assuming that the person posting is up to no good when in reality, they're just looking for info or advice. You're out of line. And quite frankly, I really don't know where you come up with this stuff to begin with. I don't think anyone else reading his posts saw any ill intent on his part.

Today I did some work on the S20, Japan is now nice but little bit chilly in the morning and evening. I adjusted carbs at an airport parking lot before my flig?ht The carbs were summer set up , I was hoping I set for autumn, but I tried not to touch a lot . I felt I must stay with Mr . Watanabe ‘s tuning . My work is not perfect , I am just an amateur . Kats

Had a super busy week at work last week so this weekend was not as productive as I was hoping. I did manage to the get the intake painted which came out really good. While it dried I used my tap to clean out the holes for the mounting studs. M8x1.25 for anyone that needs to know. This really makes all the difference in the world! There no shortage of debris in the holes along with some slightly damaged threads, all of which were corrected with the tap. I used WD-40 to keep it lubricated as I am not looking to cut new threads, just clean up what is there. Installing the ARP studs was easy peasy. Hung the intake on for a photo.

Hey Keith-- The greenish color you need for the seat sliders is the same as for the horns. (I might add that it is correct as well for the heater blower and heater blower housing) @CanTechZ started an interesting thread some time back and I added my experience with trying to duplicate this color in it. The aerosols I used were Rust-oleum products readily available at Lowe's or Home Depot: You'll have to experiment a little to get the right combination of camouflage and oil rubbed bronze as I described in the thread. I think it will be what you are after. Colors don't show up well in the photo above or from the 2015 photo in the thread, but the greenish bronze combination is very close to the original color used on the components of the rails, horns, and heater box blower motor housings. Hope it helps. Zup

Since you asked for old photos, here are some pix I just posted in the 1974 Fun Run thread. The last photo shows about 20 S30s. I wonder if we will ever see that many unmodified Zs together again...

Have you thought about doing some that would fit Konig Rewinds? That might be popular.

All I did was pass the diagram on to you. Thank Wayne (wal280z), he's the one that originally posted it here some years ago. I have some tested, working, clean fusible links (3 red, 1 black). I used to carry them in the glove box as spares when I had my Z. PM me if you want them, they're yours for postage. (Like the 'pay it forward' thread).

Try this one. It's large, in color and for a 77: http://www.classiczcars.com/downloads/F77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

Well,I like the Catera fuse box: if I can find one local to me so I can check it out in more detail i might go that direction. Otherwise, I might take up Fastwomen on her suggestion to use the Maxi-fuse and just 'de-bling' it a bit. I like the technical davantages of gold, so this route appeals to me. Otherwise, I might just buy the plain jane $49 6 fuse block from Lordco and 'bling' it up so it is not so, well, ugly. Look forward to seeing what you do Fastwomen: electrical is not just a weak spot for our Z's, it is also a weak spot for me so always like to see what others have done...

That's a cool setup, Wayne.

I asked Carl Beck about a splash pan some time ago and he told me they were not on my early car. That's good because I don't intend to drive the car in the rain anymore. The only thing my car is soaking up is money? ROFL ROFL