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Just get to work and things happen. Fit in there real good. Im very happy. The door is just sitting in there so alignment is half arse but I had to check for lines and continuity. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

@zKars is playing with a set of these for his 510....

Almost forgot.. On the hydraulics: do not expect a perfect fit on the brake master, clutch master and clutch slave., all the rods will have different length, you will need to use all the original rods and clevis. otherwise all will bolt in place just fine.

Couple of pointers 1. You can use the newer dash however... A. you will also need the later center consul as the early consul will not mate with the newer dash B. you will need to modify the climate controls. might also get the later hood cable assy, the early one will or might not fit the early mounting point 2 gauges. they are NOT the same, for example if you are to use the early gauges in the later dash you will need to swap the early clock work into a later case, it will not mount otherwise. also, all the connectors are different and the later tach runs off the negative side of the coil vs the positive on the early tach All in all it will be easier to use the early dash, get a dash cover (get the 1/2 cover) and find the missing bits. PS, if you or anyone else get a dash cover and live in a hot climate DO NOT leave it uncovered in the sun!, it will warp badly.

grannyknot! i have one ha ha i just forget to attach it. ill do that tonight, good eye. Considering they are my first patch panels i cant truly comment but in terms of this job the seem decent. needed some flexing so it laid nice against the original. also the creases arent as sharp as factory and the body line under the gas tank filler is hardly there. I creased it a bit but couldnt go much past the back third. ill try and recreate it a bit on the door side with filler i guess

Id be interested in having a look, in NZ also

rockauto has a better deal than amazon I just saw. In the box "how did you hear about us" put 9238848886853244 for a 5% discount. I think it changes daily? but you can google discount code for rockauto and get the newest one. $93 shipping and all to my house. I learned a trick on the pilot bearing/bushing. Put it between your pointing finger and your thumb, fill it with motor oil and squeeze until you see the outside "sweat" drops form. That oils it throughout. Thanks Tom Monroe! Similar to this...

Haha! I was figuring the carb was open and dry enough that I wasn't worried about fuel still inside. Sure, if it's still got fuel in it, then a torch would be tricky. But I was figuring it was dry. And yes, you would have to keep the heat away from the plastic floats themselves. I was figuring you could maybe get a little heat on the short stub of the end part of the pin that protrudes out into the hole. That and maybe some on the carb body itself from the outside at the blind end of the pin. And that rusty nut remover is an induction heater and I really doubt you could get the coil down into the hole far enough to have any impact on the pin. If I were to go through this again, I would probably drill a small access hole through the carb body to the blind end of the pin and use a small rod to push the pin out from that end. Essentially complete the pin hole all the way through both sides of the carb body. Then tap the new hole for threads and run a loctited plug screw into the hole to seal it. And, I've already fixed this problem on the last set of flat tops I worked on so it would never happen again. I made new float pins that are maybe a quarter inch longer than the original ones so there is a lot more material to grip to pull them out. Then I bored out the sealing caps to include a recessed area in the middle to account for the longer pins. Here's a couple pics. Longer pin with much more to grab: And the recess in the cap to account for the additional length: For a fee, I may be persuaded to repeat that procedure.

There are full dash covers available for the 240Z like this one https://zcardepot.com/catalog/product/view/id/825/s/dash-cover-cap-full-overlay-interior-black-70-72-early-73.html/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguDeBRDCARIsAGxuU8YfUynjMimWLobvU8IIPj9Ag2iznsa4ZZPGatC3DKft3aEHo0_xpHEaAqigEALw_wcB , but you would need to source a Glove Box and Glove Box door. I believe the box is still availabel but the door probably from eBay.

That 260 dash may not have the same wiring connectors etc. Your console won’t match up either. I would source another 240 dash if possible.

OK. I'm the original poster on this thread and may have been the first, or one of the firsts, to use the 123 ignition on an L6 Z engine. I also use an MSD 6AL on mine and have had no issues with it since it was originally installed. I will say that when I was first contemplating using the 123 system, there was a note I believe on the 123 Ignition site in Europe, that indicated using a multi spark ignition system with the 123 was not recommended. I ended up contacting their US rep who put me in touch with their chief engineer in Europe so I could understand more about the MSD issue. Turns out that no one had ever really done this before with the 123 system and the engineer really didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work. So I went ahead and completed the install with the 123 dizzy and the MSD 6AL. So far I have not had any real issues with this system and I would characterize this as one of the best upgrades that I have done. Makes changing the timing curves a snap. I've attached the wiring diagram I drew up when I first did the install (including wire colors). I will provide one word of caution / advice on the original install. According to the 123 install directions, once you get the dizzy physically installed, you need to turn the unit until the green light just comes on. This assumes that your engine is at TDC and this "green light calibration" is intended to get the dizzy in timing sync with the engine. In other words this calibration should result in the dizzy being at TDC with 0 degrees of advance. However, after some trial and error, I found that this initial position actually introduced an advance of about 10 degrees so when I thought I was at 0 degrees, I was really at 10 degrees BTDC. So my advice is that once you have the dizzy initially installed and "calibrated" using the green light method, load a 0 degree advance program into the 123 unit and check your timing at idle with a timing light. Ideally, it should show that you are at 0 degrees advance, but if in fact it is off (like mine was) you will need to loosen the dizzy mounting clamp and turn the dizzy until you read TDC. Once you have this set as a 0 degree baseline, you can then load in programs with the desired advance curve. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Mike. 123 Wiring 2_19_14.pptx

Thanks for the tip. I'll look out for the book. Presumably it's about the Cobra coupes? My original copy of The Cobra Ferrari Wars is a much missed 'lent-out-and-never-returned' casualty...

Yea, my wife's got a truck too. It was her Dads, she drove it in high school. Didn't look quite like this then.

Facebook throws data into a long scroll..... like toilet paper......try to find that interesting link you saw a month ago. When will the masses realize it is toilet paper programming?

Someone that evaded being photographed but I see her! Ms Maras...

It was nice meeting you and Cody too Mr Patcon. I'm glad everyone had fun and safe travel here and back. Atlanta's Hartsfield is mine now. Thanks Maras, I needed that.

I got the poster series framed as well as the signed event post.

With you gutting and restoring your car the right way, it's going to be even greater! Following this thread?

Steve, On behalf of Patty and myself, thanks for all the hard work you put in over the last 18 months. Great job on putting together the closing show slide presentation. The Georgia Z Club and Fairlady Alliance team did a great job. I was pleased to help out where needed. It was a great pleasure to meet some of you guys - Bruce and Gary from Philadelphia, the Jims from Arkansas, Patcon and Cody, etc. Sorry about getting some of you lost temporarily in the north Georgia mountains. ? Congrats to Zup on his multiple wins! I'll post some photos later.

Well, it has been put to bed. The closing banquet room was packed. We had raffles, recognitions, auctions for charities, tons of car show awards, and a nice presentation from the next group of insane or naive bastards who want to take the baton to Branson for 2019. Then the room emptied out. I did ask Tamura-san what was the chance of Nissan using a straight 6 in their sports car. I know that current packaging makes it almost impossible, but he took the time to talk about other factors like the limitations of the straight 6 with regard to higher RPM applications. Where else but at ZCON can you get that kind of access? I haven't had a conference call in over a week now, but I'm not suffering from withdrawals. The week of somewhat controlled chaos is over. It was great to see how the team worked out pretty much any issue that came up. I have heard that some ZCON teams aren't on speaking terms after all is said and done. I don't think that applies to our group. Thank you for all of you who made the trip to my neck of the woods. I'm sorry I couldn't be more social, but I needed to help my team take care of a few hundred of our closest Z friends. ? If you ever want to drop back by, I'll be more than happy to show you my favorite roads and BBQ joints. I hope you enjoyed your visit. I have most of my things packed. I'll get a few hours of sleep and go over to the Sonesta to say farewell to anybody starting off their trips back home. Then it's my turn to take the short trip back to my house.

Well, I had to leave ZCon a wee bit early for technical reasons and didn't get many pics, but I know all the cool kids were heading to the closing banquet that SteveJ was putting together. When I left, Zup already had one trophy from the Peoples Choice show on Saturday. It was great meet and hang out with this group of folks. Well done SteveJ! Thanks for the hard work!

Me thinks there are too many pix of cars and not enough pix of peeps.....Cliff is real , and just what you would expect. We locked up the alcohol and warned the women at ZCON to lay low. AlabamaZama.... nice to meet you in person....we appreciate your enthusiasm ......you are what makes this forum great. Also, so nice to meet Capt. Obvious, Charles, Cody, Jim and Jim, Brian, John Jeffries, Eiji and the rest of the rat pack. Thanks SteveJ for a tremendous effort.....It was fantastic. Guy

Cliff is picking us up at the airport at 10:00 AM tomorrow morning and the plan is to head directly to the track and meet up with Jai (RedWing). Cliff will be there until late Saturday. Looking forward to meeting y'all. I've been practicing my language skills.

Here's proof that preparing for the Judged Car Show can make you dog tired.

Kathy and I are taking a United red-eye flight from Portland. Cliff is picking us up at the airport at 9:55 AM. This is going to be fun!

End of travel = your pedal stop. Must be set after any throttle adjustment. Must not bend thy throttle blades nor leave HP on the table. Cable travel is determined by how far the tip of the pedal moves away from the firewall as you press the pedal. This is then converted to rotation at the carb trottle blades by some form of an arm that protrudes from the throttle rod. It is the distance from the center of that rod out along that attached arm that determines how the fixed cable travel is converted to the correct rotation angle. The shorter that arm, the more rotation you get for a given cable length pull. Takes a little trial and error. That is why most of these arms have multiple holes along its length. And FINALLY someone asks for my secret source of those sweet metal metric ball ends. i hate to reveal my sources but.... https://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=3261 And while I'm spilling the beans, here... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Throttle-Linkage-Arms,1911.html?OriginalQuery=91018400