Leaderboard

RIV Ride height more than anything wil determine wheel and tire combinations. I installed 16X7 MOMO 5 stars initially with a 50 series tire. Had some clearance issues at first because the tire was actually underneath the lip of the fender arc. If you get the tires completely under the car a 17 should be good with a really high performance low life tire. To me personally the tires under the car makes it look cleaner. I had to use a spacer behind the wheel that still could be milled down more for an even better fit. Do lots of research maybe even get an installer to mount a set or two for trial fitment. If you are out underneath the fender arc you are limited in lowering the ride height. You can find many combinations that allow more options if the wheel and tires are under the car.. GOOD LUCK!

Ummm.... That's six words. You sure you wanted me involved?

I got the springs and struts on EBay, it was a kit that was purchased some time ago and never used. Not sure whats going on with my pics, I have posted pics without issue many times. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

True but 15” tire selection has really gone down. 225/50/15 is scarce.

Did the timing ever get set after the cam change?

15x8 Zero Offset, Koenigs with Watanabe caps Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

With stock struts and springs the 16" look good on my 280 but not the 240 which has 15" wheels. The 15s keep the low roof height and the speedo a lot closer to accurate without buying new lower suspension. I have 50s on the 15" & 55s on the 16" without rubbing and stock ride height.

My 240 ran fairly good with low float bowls, you could have basic problems and think it's all fuel related. California Datsun is known for selling bad motors and that's what you have. He won't satisfy his American customers I can only imagine what he thinks when someone from another country buys from him?

Has this car ever ran right? I can't remember hearing that from the owner and I've been on here since 2011.

You're looking at the wrong end. picture, Dr. of Ears, Nose and Throat NOT Dr. of Proctology. Get back under the hood where the problem is. If you have doubts about the fuel pump?s, do a pressure and volume test and then get back to the floats. Don't keep buying new pumps.

I texted with the seller last night a while after I started this thread. He told me that the the transaction was finalized yesterday. I noticed the car's '2400' valve cover and asked him if he knew the VIN number. He said that he didn't pay much attention to the VIN on the title, but he would contact the buyer and get back to me today. Since I had not heard back from him today, I sent him a text message about an hour and a half ago, asking if he had a chance to call the buyer, but I haven't received a response yet. Once I hear back from him, I will post the VIN on this thread.

Installed the front zinc centrics calipers. I ditched the stainless lines from the caliper to the coilover tube. Went with traditional lines. No leaks!

Maybe, maybe not. For me, not so much. Worked fine and was spot on for the front carburetor (long valve), but was way off for rear carb (short valve). The fuel level in the rear carb had to be set significantly higher on my engine for proper tuning. Hard to say what has changed with the carbs over the years that make one method work or not work. For instance the fuel bowl indexing bushing could be wrong for the position (front or rear carb) which could affect how fuel level in the bowl correlates to the level at the nozzle. In the end, the fuel level at the nozzle is the only thing that matters so why not check the level where it matters and forget the other dubious methods.

The height adjustment in these struts are in the threaded adapter tubes - NOT by moving the spring perches! (as I've stated elsewhere:) Generally, the spring perches should never be adjusted. On this strut cartridge you would only change the position of the lower spring perch (at the bottom of the spring) to add pre-load to the spring. Most installs do not want or need any pre-load on the springs. IF the spring is loose between the upper and lower perch, the lower perch should be adjusted so that the spring is just snug. The upper perch is not adjustable. A quote from the Stance USA FAQ site: "When adjusting the height, do not adjust the height by the spring perch. All height adjustments should be done through the lower mounting bracket.Adjusting the spring perch will change the spring preload and should only be done when corner weighting and balancing the car." You do not, will not gain any "height" (additional length of the strut cartridge) by adjusting the spring perches. If you installed a longer spring, you would have to move the lower spring perch down on the strut cartridge to complete the installation. You would not gain additional length in the strut cartridge. That "rod" you see coming out the top of the cartridge is at the maximum range of it's travel - it simply cannot extend any further upward. The "no loss of travel" comment on the website refers to being able to move the strut cartridge up and down in the threaded adapter without affecting the damper travel in any way. The damper is fully contained in the cartridge and can't be affected by moving the cartridge up or down in the threaded adapter. (Certain other coilover setups use a stock-ish damper cartridge whose range of motion is affected when the ride height is changed.) Albatross knows what he needs to do to get his install where he wants it. My response is mainly to clear up any misconceptions or misinformation.

Great work, thank you moelk!!

Interesting that someone would go the effort and expense of stamping out the "close to original" hubcaps and then screw up the paint. It would be like forging a blonde haired version of daVinci's Mona Lisa painting and hoping no one would notice. Dennis

And I keep throwing you softballs in the hopes you will hit at least one out of the park.....

Thanks Steve, I have got the grommets in hand, quality is just fantastic. I will make two early shift boots for these grommets! Kats

Test fuel mixture settings with both carbs connected to fuel supply. If the engine stumbles and slows when the rear carb piston is lifted, then it is lean. A lean condition can be caused by low fuel level (bowl) or a vacuum leak. Have you checked for large vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts? Spray carb cleaner at the shaft bushings when the engine is running. If the rpm goes up significantly, here could be the problem. If the carb is sucking air in at the throttle shafts, it won't suck in much fuel from the nozzle.

Finished the prop shaft with a new u joint and some loctite for good measure.

I see the difference now, with Stance's inverted shock technology. Still, the "sleeve" would be used to adjust shock travel range, and the spring perch to adjust ride height. If you're adjusting the sleeve to get the shock stroke where you want it and running out of threads at the desired ride height, I think that would mean that you need a longer shock. Stance's design is an adjustable spring perch AND an adjustable shock perch. Basically, it's an external shock. You adjust the sleeve to determine where you want the shock piston to start its travel from. You have to consider wheel travel. https://stance-usa.com/about/faq/#toggle-id-1

We like to say that the distributor can only be installed one way, but I have seen on more than one occasion where someone managed to install the distributor 180 degrees out. Don't ask me how it was done. I only know that some people can do it.

One thing for sure, even if it doesn’t drive as well as your 911, it will be a heck of a lot easier to work on!

If it's as clean and rust free as it appears, it will be a bargain at almost any price when compared to any Z that has rust and the costs involved in body repairs. Get the best one (body wise) you can afford. Prices are going up rapidly and the trend is now including 280's. I'd be shocked if one that clean didn't go well over 24K.

I've been buying S30's and scrapping rotten S30's for the last 35 years. I still find uses for some of the first parts I ever removed back in the mid-80's. When I was young and started hording Z parts, I stored them in my dad's basement and garage. When I entered the workforce, I moved out of state and started a new collection of parts. A few years ago, my dad sold his house and moved to Phoenix, so it was time to gather my parts and bring them back to Michigan. It took a full 24 foot enclosed car trailer to get everything home. Needless to say, my garage is rather full now. My current plan is to sell cheap or give away parts I don't think I will ever need to local Z owners in need. If I can keep another Z on the road and reduce my clutter at the same time, I'm happy.

Hoarding parts........not a problem......hoarding Z's.....you need expensive therapy.

You call that hoarding?

Thanks Namerow.....The white Z is running Eibach springs with Tokico blue shocks. I'm running 16x7 inch Panasport wheels (not sure of the offset) with 205 55 16 Goodrich KDW's. The chin spoiler is the fiberglass BRE Spook from Motorsport. I've since this post, added a rear spoiler.