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I restored a parts catalog just a little bit, I bought it last week, from Germany. I found the support brackets were bent, I fixed them , not perfect but they are OK now .It joined my collections. Kats

If there was only someone in the Atlanta area who understood the 76 280Z wiring diagram to help you locate the factory wiring and safely modify it to work...

The 2017 Midwest Z Heritage Festival will be held at the Automotive Hall of Fame in Dearborn, MI August 18-19. Activities are planned for Friday and Saturday, including a gathering with employees at the Nissan Tech Center (Farmington Hills, MI), a group dinner and the world famous Woodward Dream Cruise. The premier car show event will be Saturday morning at the AHoF with judging, awards and raffle prizes.Full details and registration at https://www.midwestzheritageshow.com/. All proceeds of this event will be donated to the AHoF Museum - specifically to expand the Z car and Mr. K (1998 inductee) exhibit and archives.

I used to hit up a gal named Patina late at night. She was rough looking but still good and ran solid.

Never seen anything like that. Looks like the bottom of a boat, barnacles. You will most likely have to drop the tank and clean and coat the inside. Cost me $50 or so on my '77. Google "Red-Kote application instructions" to familiarize your self with the procedure. It's not hard just time sensitive and will take a week to fully cure the liner. I can offer plenty of tips, I've done two so far just let me know.

Winner, winner, Chickenman dinner...

Wow. Our old Z's should be huge.

I had tried to use my front turn signals as white DRLs when placing the light switch in the first position AND amber turn signals when needed. JDMAstar sells LED bulbs with the stock 1157 base that fit right in the housings and are advertised to do exactly what I wanted (they're called "switchback" bulbs because of the 2 functions). They worked erratically, with the turn signal activating spontaneously now and then so I pulled those out and went back to simple amber LEDs with the OEM amber lens with the stock functions. Then I found Zleds. Samuel makes LED boards which go from very simple to very complex programmable units that do all kinds of funky stuff. I just wanted the simple switchback functions WITH sequential turn signals. He took a couple of weeks to manufacture and I finally got around to installing them yesterday. Easy mod with safety benefits and cool factor. Here's a video of them working as DRLs and as sequential turn signals. Note that I had already wired in the front fender position lights to act as turn signals as well (posted elsewhere in this forum).

I believe that they're molded in a solid blue. All of my spare interior panels are at the other garage. I have a stack of door panels at home but I think they're all black. Hmmm...I'll look around tonight when I get back from the track. Chuck

You could also add an H pipe between your Twice pipes. That will cut down on resonance as well. Done on V8 systems and really helps. H pipes do have an ideal location for placement. You want it at a high velocity area, before it starts losing all of it's energy. Use some cheap, non-heat resistant Black paint and paint a Stripe on the bottom of the exhaust pipes. Now go make some WOT runs on the Freeway. The paint will burn off in the high velocity areas . Put your H pipe or Helmoltz resonator in that area.

I saw that too, and I think that might be a California thing. You can also see the "Floor Temp" warning lamp that only came on the CA cars.

Some observations; 'S30-01036' would indeed be an early 1970 production (probably January or early February) S30-S Standard model 'Fairlady Z' or S30 Deluxe model 'Fairlady Z-L'. A closer look at your remaining trim and accessories should tell you whether it was a Standard or Deluxe model, but it's more likely to be a Deluxe just based on the law of averages and the stainless trim that I can see. The G-Nose assembly, whether it indeed is a genuine factory item or an early aftermarket copy, would have been attached to the car after (probably quite a way after) October 1971. The original colour of the car looks to be #905 red, which would be correct for a 1970 production Fairlady Z or Z-L. The 'Grand Prix Red' choice on the Fairlady 240ZGs was actually #110, so a different shade. It's kind of a moot point anyway as your car clearly isn't a Fairlady 240ZG. I don't see anything specific that would point to circuit race use in-period. The seats are aftermarket sports seats and are certainly not factory race seats, the centre drop bar brackets for the roll hoop look to be an aftermarket copy of the Nissan Sports Option items (yours appear simplified in comparison to originals) and there's an awful lot of interior re-trim with non-standard materials evident, along with a later centre console. It looks like a fairly typical 70s/80s 'street tune' car to me. The photo of the left door interior looks - to me - to show it is a later replacement. Does the engine bay tag match up with the body serial number engraved on the firewall?

Hi everybody Lance here. I've been in Japan recently and visited Kameari's shop. Got my wallet empty and time to go back. They have a couple of parts like the 2400 valve cover and JDM taillight for sale. I've never seen some of the parts in the US. Overall a nice trip spotting tons of awesome cars! I'm not sure if anyone want me to do a write up about where did I go... I kinda feeling like doing one. Tons of pictures and Japan definitely have a interesting culture. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks, my buddy is a tech at an independent Toyota shop so he helps me out on stuff thats over my head

Very nice. I will have to get my car up on a lift for some pics when I'm done too!

Man, that's a beautiful sight!!!!

I also got my brakes dialed in. They were professionally bled and the rear drums needed some adjustment. I was able to sneak some under skirt shots too.

Those are nice! That should take some load the harness also. Mark, I've already had dinner, thank you.

In 4th power is transmitted directly through the main/center shaft. In 1 through 3 and 5 it uses the countershaft. So noise in those gears could be a countershaft bearing going bad, or already damaged. If you haven't changed the transmission fluid yet, you might find metal parts on the drain plug magnet. If you decide to change the fluid, which you should, make sure that you remove the fill plug first, to be sure that you can refill, and to avoid sucking dirt back through the vent when the old oil comes out.

Lol! You're about to enter the hell of small parts restoration. It goes something like this.... "I think I'll put the <fill in the blank> back on the Z tonight... Gosh, those <fill in the blank> are awful rusty. I better clean them up first." Four hours later you have five cleaned up parts with paint drying and nothing has been bolted to the car... Couple of useful tools: blasting cabinet, parts tumbler and zinc plating supplies (you can do this easily). Once you plate the parts throw them back in the tumbler with corn cob media for a nice satin finish!

Nice work CO! A friend showed me that Volvo do something similar: : and Porsche:

A few more patches from that era.

Thanks Kats. I don't think I'm qualified to make real ones though. Material selection (for real), heat treating, plating... Those are the difficult parts for me. If I get a few more moments, I'll test the other (less likely) retention theories I mentioned before. I'm sure I can come up with an internal hidden retention pin, but the one I'm really curious about is the differential temperature assembly. That would be really neat if I could get that to work!

Hi Kats, Yes I did. Its always good to talk about cars and have a coffee/beer. I've got some spindle pins being made, when I go to collect I'll show the shop the video's and can ask if they'd be interested in making a small batch if you'd like? Lovely to hear the twin idler gear. its a great noise.