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I saw me! Great video. So this is what a bird sees right before he poops on my hood.

This is a special time for me. This month is the 40th birthday for my 280z. What a perfect time to celebrate that event, spend time with the greatest of friends, and take home a 2nd place award. Here are some of the pictures from a great week .... The Tuesday wash 100 degrees The Oasis show & judging Mr M liked my interior Thursday's road trip to Murphys Steak House (Wow) & relaxing back at the Hilton bar Flat Tops at Circuit of the America's Track (A record Zup will hold forever) Track staging ... (103 degrees) Group Photo Shoot Peoples Choice show Awards Dinner & big surprise for me Jim loading Mike W's spare & heading home from Mike's driveway Back home for 2nd Awards dinner

May I explain--- 75 to 80 mph heavy traffic in a 4 lane construction zone with no shoulders!! Dude in a SUV waving frantically at me from the right to get my attention--- Fought my way through the ignoramuses around me to escape at the last exit for the next 15 miles. Stopped the car and got out to inspect---flat tire passenger rear. WTF!!!! Disaster if it hadn't happened the way it did. Tire was running almost on the rim. Crippled up to a Wendy's with a convenience store next by. Asked if they had air--- although I wasn't sure that I could even move the car any further. Asked if they knew of a roadside service that I could call-- Sure--gave me the card--I called ---explained my predicament--He says "What size tires??" I say 14"?????!!!!! He says "Hell I don't know where to get them in Temple, TX.--- maybe a Walmart." Asks me where I am. "At the Wendy's/ convenience store in Temple." He says--"I'm around back working on a 18 wheeler!" Fantastic! He pulls around and breaks the tire down and removes the tip of a broken utility knife blade that has sliced my tire in the thickest part of the tread. Does the entire job "old school style" with a bead breaker spud bar, tire spoons, and an inner patch applied after flaming the inner tire area of the slice to insure a good bond. Great hard working guy that asked for $40--I gave him $50 and thanked my lucky stars the cut wasn't in the sidewall. The shot above was the next day when Scarab owner Mike Reynolds lent me his floor jack so that @Captain Obvious and his pal Gary could take me and the tire to a shop to re-balance the tire before the COTA Parade laps. Deepest appreciation and thanks to all you guys for the help!!! Zup p.s. @Mike W would not let me leave to go back home without a spare and gave me the original 14" steel rim with a brand new tire mounted on it from his 260Z before I left. Thanks again to you Mike! You all are the best there is!!

Have you put an actual thermometer in the radiator and let it idle until the thermostat opens? My 240 needle sets on the right leg of the M in TEMP on the gauge. I thought it was running hot too so i put a digital meat thermometer in and it runs at 173F sitting in my garage with no air flowing. So long story short, my gauge is flaky and my temp is fine. EDIT 176F with no airflow

The popping is from unburned fuel igniting inside the exhaust pipe. If oxygen gets into the exhaust pipe through: 1. too much cam overlap during over run 2. poor valve adjustment 3. burned exhaust valve 4. holes in the exhaust system 5. too big an exhaust pipe and reversion then the oxygen will ignite the fuel and cause the popping. The other possible causes are: 1. retarded timing igniting the fuel when the exhaust valve is partially opened 2. too rich a carb setting sending unburned excess fuel out with the exhaust gas.

Here is a Drone flyover of the Oasis judged show area .....

I thought of instead of just searching for individual threads, I would put a catch all thread up in general. Here is a link to my flickr album with all my ZCON stuff loaded. https://www.flickr.com/photos/sdamico/albums/72157682607635543

Looks like there's a hole in the weld where the rusty old stock tailpipe meets the new muffler. That's the worst welding I ever saw. Sorry if you welded it yourself. Whoever did it should practice a lot on some old parts before welding for a customer. I noticed my truck backfiring through the tail pipe after a small hole rusted out in the header about 10 inches from the exhaust port. Cause and effect maybe, but I don't understand t how a hole in a header would cause backfire.

"G8B" was the factory designation for what then became the 'S20'. It wasn't the same engine as the GR8, despite the bloodline. The 'G8B' was somewhat simplified and mass-productionised in comparison to the pure race 'GR8', and the cylinder head casting in particular (along with the cam cover, inlet manifold, distributor/ignition system, cooling system/water pump and cam drive system) was completely different. I have factory race department dyno testing sheets from 1970 where they are still identifying the 'S20' as the 'G8B', probably through force of habit.

You're right about the blue interior. The inside is so dusty and the pictures so bad that the interior appeared black to me when I first looked at it. I used to have a '71 white with blue interior that I sold about three and a half years ago and I loved that combo and miss the car!

Thanks! She is looking forward to seeing it on the road too!

Any hints? Yeah... Buy a hydraulic press. Even if you don't need it for the spindle pins, it makes easy work of removing the old bushings and installing the new ones. You know you've wanted one for a long time anyway.

Well, the decision is in! 9'er Domestic has chosen the 2335 green in front! Deciding factors were how it looked both in sun and shade. The stock 240 looks flat and black in the shade, while the front 2335 pops regardless of the amount of light. It seems to have a very good level of metallic in it too. It is lighter than I had thought I would go, but overall it will be a nice show car colour. Shade pics.

So.... after seeing and hearing and smelling the 1965 R380-I with triple DCOE 42 & 200HP (actually 45 in Austin). I am guessing the last test case #11 above had the R380A-II engine with triple DCOE-45 engine to give the listed 230HP? The 160HP base S20 was not produced until 1968 so it would have made sense to try the end-of-line R380A-II engines for F U N ! Kats what is your guess? The "G8B" label looks a lot like "GR8" typo. Do you think they tested the Prince engines in the Z in 1967? Or A/B680X Engine and Transmission?

I'm counting on it! If I can make it, so can you. Looking forward to having a brew with you! Jai

I would spin that batt connection (A) around 180degrees, it looks dangerously close to grounding out to the center of the alt.

If you're willing to start with a 280Z, you could maybe find one more locally. I found a dude on YouTube who bought a '77 in England. The guy had two for sale. 280Zs are unquestionably better built, but whether or not they are "better" depends on what you want from the car, and what you like about them. 240Zs are definitely more raw/vintage. Basically, from the factory, a 240Z is more sporty and nimble, a 280Z is more of a GT car. You can make a 280Z feel more raw/vintage, and you can make it look like a 240Z, but that will require effort and money. Some would consider that the fun part, some don't want to bother. Also somewhat depends on what mods you want to do. For me, 240Zs are at the point where I'm getting kind of uneasy seeing people drastically modify them (ie, engine swaps, cutting/welding the body), at least the nicer ones. I'm becoming a purist, lol.

Cleaned up and lubed the half shafts today. I went with the bare metal clear coat on the half shafts. I did this on my '71 and I think it looks great. I could go with black, but then everything underneath is black so it looks kind of plain when in reality, these are pretty cool looking parts.

I was under the assumption that Nissan was chrome plating these peices, which allow them to still last the years. I'll compare it to my buddies Mini Cooper Mk1, and AH Sprite. They should have British Manufactored SU-Carbs, and inspect.

Kats, The original throttle shaft bearing design was doomed to wear from day one. And for that matter, all carburetors have a similar problem; the metal of the shaft and the carburetor body is 'soft' metal which will wear excessively with the constant use. I believe that they were designed that way to prevent binding. Throttle shafts machined from a harder alloy with a similar alloy bushing will work just as well as the bearing arrangement that ZTherapy provides. I have even seen throttle shafts plated to compensate for wear. In both cases, either design, I would recommend occasionally oiling the bushing / bearing with some penetrating oil. Your re-builds look fantastic. It is great to see such a delicious set of early carburetors. Engine jewelry!

The aquablast process should sort of shot peen the surface in a way that makes it hard for oil and grease to repenetrate the surface of the alloy and therefore it should wipe clean again with some degreaser. I had it done on my valve cover (wish it was a 2400 OHC cover) and E31 cylinder head. https://goo.gl/photos/AqiuVue5sXrHGLyq5 Definitely recommended.