Leaderboard

1st thing to check is to see if the compressor clutch it engaging when AC is on. You should be able to see/hear it with the hood up. the pulley will always be turning if the engine is running, but the compressor has a magnetic clutch that only allows the compressor to run when its engaged. so with the AC off, open the hood and start the car. locate the compressor, and note the sound (or lack of sound) from it. Now turn the ac on and look listen again, there should be notable sound from it as its working. You can also try feeling the hoses that come out of the firewall that hook up to the compressor and drier. One should be hot the other cold. Knowing the compressor is engaging is the 1st thing to determine. From there the diagnosis can continue. If the clutch is not engaging then it could be an electrical problem in the switching OR if so equipped a low pressure sensor telling the compressor clutch not to engage due to a loss of Freon. Remote diagnostic of mal functioning AC is not easy. the best way would be to hook up gauges to the high and low side and see what's happening assuming the clutch is working.

abomination |əˌbäməˈnāSHən|noun a thing that causes disgust or hatred: this bill is an abomination to all mankind |informal : concrete abominations masquerading as hotels.• a feeling of hatred: their abomination of indulgence.ORIGIN Middle English: from Latin abominatio(n-), from the verbabominari (see abominate) . I think I like the flame job on the truck better, but not by much. Just my opinion, I'll move on now…..

Wrapped up a small resto effort today on a rescue part with a successful electrical test. New lens on order from S. Nix.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-04-29/jason-white-claims-sixth-targa-tasmania-title/8482298

utah, if you start a New Topic, we can help you troubleshoot. It's what we live for, sitting out here staring at out monitors, hoping for problems. Seriously though, if you buy that relay and get it to plug in, that would be good to know. Even if the engine still doesn't run.

One more thing Jai, with your long hair PLEASE be extra careful anytime checking under the hood with the engine running. long hair and belts and pulleys are is not a good combination. You should always have your hair pulled back into a tight pony/bun before even opening the hood.

How did the control switch get checked to find that out? That's a mystery to me. Thank you for mentioning it, I would never thought to check that part. We are getting some terrific wind bursts today. One literally blew open my front door (it has a faulty lock in it). Still that was some wind to do that. Hope you are not getting this bad weather that is charging across our 2 states. Yeek! Jai

My Dad spent $250 to find out the A/C switch on the control panel was bad, not allowing the compressor to engage. I actually just got back from pulling one at a junkyard for him. I got the whole panel for free, they are going to crush the car when the metal prices go up some anyway. Fortunately the guy that took the dash apart to troubleshoot can now put it back together, not me.

Inside the banjo bolts right at the float bowl

Needs the Bambi treatment, Godzilla's foot.

Curious if there was ANY improvement after bypassing the steel fuel rail? I'm of the opinion that wrapping fuel lines retains heat that comes from the fuel rail mounts, but that's just a theory and probably only part of the problem.

Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please. Cheers, Mike

In 2007 I had my first baby on the way. Wife and I just bought our first home togehter and it was ripe with a 3 car garage just waiting for me to fill it. My lovely pregnant wife said, if you are going to get project car, NOW is the time. That is all it took. I had been looking for a while and found one on an internet Z car club classifieds in North Carolina. I flew up their and met a nice man named Mark. He was into Datsuns and he had the silver 71 looking ready to sell when I got their. To this day I recall seeing that garage door open up with the Z looking out (Mark had a flare for the dramatic). I got to drive that that afternoon and was shocked at how well mannered the car was. After exactly 2.1 miles in a vintage Z I handed over my check for 10,000 dollars. Been spending money on it ever since.

I have a 1972 z that sat in my garage for 25 years. ( I know! Why?) Last year I got it running and driving. The problem I developed with my gauges was that when power was first applied at startup, the fuel gauge would respond then slowly drop back to E. I could not find anything wrong with the sending units. After taking apart the gauges I found that there was a poor connection between the tiny wires that heat up and make the gauges register and the studs that connect to those wires. The easy fix was to clean the contact points between the stud and the tiny wires, then soldered them together. Hope this is helpful anyone with similar problems. I soldered the fuel, oil and temperature connections and they all work perfectly. See picture. Phil Smith

I don't think the rust is awful but there is a lot of work to do. I see this car as comparable to my projects, 26th and 27th. I'm marveling at the bent floors. Wow! I wonder if I could ask the guy on BAT to contact me here? I'm 26th-Z on BAT. This car is being discussed on Bookfaced from Datsun Parts and Needs. Big comments on the value of low VIN cars. I think I'm going to be surprised with the bid on 187th. There's only so much room on the purchase price vs. the restoration costs and value afterwards. I still think I'm on track with escalating values to have two cars worth what I have in them, but we'll see. Either way, a restoration on a car like 187th is going to be big bucks.

Hey, don't give me any crazy ideas. I'd be really happy if I could get Nissan to take my ex-wife AND send me some interior panels!

Beautiful Z you got there !

Pictures @kats may like: Rubber Carpet Seat Protector Plastic Knob Original Spare Oct 1969 Date Stamp Seat belt Hook Location Rubber Flooring Material No Bulb Access Clear Hatch Glass

Love the colour Casey

I think that you meant condenser or capacitor. It's there to suppress radio (electromagnetic) noise but if the positive wire touched ground it could have damaged internal components, I'd guess. I think that they might be available at the parts store from one of the displays, not the behind the counter stock. I reread your work in Post 172 and don't really see signs that anything is bad, the voltage readings are good. The external regulators allow up to 15 volts. But it's hard to tell sometimes with charging system problems. I had one internally regulated alternator go bad in my car and the vvoltmeter showed everything was right, the voltage showed battery level when the engine was off, and proper charging and voltage limiting when it was on. But the red light would glow brighter with RPM, like a little visual tachometer. I decided that wasn't right and replaced it. On my car that had the dim-then-bright headlights, there was no sign either. No engine light or dying battery. Just weird behavior.

When my battery is low my blinkers won't blink, they light up but stay solid. After an overnight 2 amp charge they're fine.

Jai might just have to get the alternator/VR fixed then come over to my house to get the other things worked on. I can cover a lot more ground at my place with all my tools available.

Did a little more clean-up on the engine parts. Cleaned and painted the oil pan and front pulley. Cleaned and put a light coat of high temp aluminum paint on the front timing chain cover. Parts are just loosely attached to the block since I don't have the nuts and bolts ready for plating. Hope to have those to the plater this Monday so I can start actual assembly soon. Will also get the valve cover glass bead blasted so that looks nice and pretty. Got a nice E30 Exhaust manifold with air galley off of e-bay (replaces the N36 that was installed on the car in 2013 and not original). Will douse the air galley fittings with Kroil and let them soak a bit before I try to remove. The air galley is in nice shape so I would like to try and preserve that. Pics are below.

Intermittent wiper control using the diagram on 91 civic wiper mod. Park relay is tucked under the dash. The Old intermittent relay works just fine but more adjustability is welcomed. Put it under the steering column for now. And PWM led dash light dimmer using woodworkerb's diagram. I changed all the bulbs in the dash and it's too damn bright! And lastly the center panel with some switch on it. I won't use the fuse box location as it's too small. So a few switches for launch rpm control, dash light, etc. Oh, The Grand Tour had it's final episode of the first season. Gotta wait for the next episode now... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Haven't you already been on this forum or another with the same problem? Can't tell what you did. Seriously, the collection of words below just doesn't convey much information. Kind of like the Talking Heads song "Burning Down the House". Which they acknowledge is nonsense lyrics. You can even sing "connection/disconnection repeated sequence of fusible link power wire" along to the song. It fits! Provide the detailed write-up instead. "went through all electrical circuits to get car to start and run...until ignition turned off and restart attempted...connection/disconnection repeated sequence of fusible link power wire with key in "start" would get power back to pump"