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Ooooooooh BABY! I am pumped. I'll take some better pics tomorrow.

That is where I bought mine a few years ago. They had the best price. I went with 205-60/15 to decrease wheel gap. I have since purchased a set of Eibach springs and will put those on this spring when weather warms up again. The other reason I went with the 205-60 tire is I wanted a bigger diameter to decrease highway RPM's as I run a 4:11 differential.

Hey thanks for reminding about Charlie. I contacted him, currently waiting for a response. Will keep you guys updated with this information. I will contact Baddog as they produce seat brackets, which im planning to make.

So I'm assuming you haven't run them yet? If your having issues then maybe, otherwise I would leave it alone. I can't imagine shipping would be all that different then shakes and vibrations from a normal running car. Unless of course your box when shipped was and dropped from a very high distance in my opinion, but even then... The floats are not that delicate in their installed state. You should be able to handle them without any repercussions. Now hitting them with a hammer is a different story!

No Zedy.....I'm pretty much a purist.....I like em clean with no pin stripes, side molding or decals.....just me. I really like your readiness to try new stuff though....to each his own. My silver Z has the side molding....I'd rather it not, but since it's all original paint, I'm not about to change that. Like I said many times..... I love your cars......and the stripes were on a lot of Z's in the early 70's.....part of the history, just like spoilers, wheels and lowering springs....they're all cool. Site....so is yours!

Carburetor is a French word meaning, 'Leave it alone'.

Kats, I agree. If the date is March 1970 then it may not be all photos of early cars. It is interesting about the lack of hose clamps in the manual. HLS30-00013 and HLS30-00072 do not have hose clamps either.

Good question. I don't see any holes in the steering wheels. It has chrome bullet mirrors, aluminum slots and an Amco front bumper over rider. Chuck

Many many pictures ! Thank you. I tend to think very early cars like "primary production prototype" would have an early bracket , would not they? Let's say the cars like S30/HLS30/HS30/PS30-00001 to 00010 or so need to be checked. About the red car with the couple, it has a later bracket and a fuel rail is an ordinary type, And also a plastic cover on a voltage regulator, a tub on an inspection lid , they are not seen in a very early cars which can be seen in a service manuals or parts catalogs. These things make me think this car may not be 00007. The sales brochure has code 0370 on the back, could it mean "issued May 1970" ? If so, it was possible to use later car like made in Dec 69 or Jan 70 or even Feb 70. What do you think ? PS this picture shows the car does not even has an early bracket for the hose,though. Looked not well organized, still working. Kats

Considering they were at the safari, max speed is likely less than 5mph. I've done that at the Safari in Oregon with my son before, it was a lot of fun!!

Love the look on that monkey's face! He's a Z driver for sure!

Wishing my friends some love in your lives. Hope this day is SWEET... Jai

Hope you didn't give their deposit back! You lucked out if you only have to fill nail holes.

About 12 years ago I found a camera bag in a dumpster, it contained several lenses, filters, and a Nikon F, made in the sixties. Looked it up online, it's famous, got the user manual. Took it to a camera shop and had it cleaned inside and out, there was some mold. They had a nice telephoto lens for it that wasn't expensive, so I bought it. It's a hell of a nice cam and takes great photos. I've never owned a high-end digital cam (I've got a cheap waterproof one I use for work, crawlspace photos etc.) so the "F" is my best cam. Only thing, the battery it used is NLA, and the current replacement makes the meter less accurate. You can still find Nikon F's around, online and in camera stores, for less than the cheapest digital cam. To me audio equipment with tubes sounds better than digital, so .....

Zup's is a lot more silver since last Saturday

Oh sure, Jim, skip over what I've documented. The roller ball will stay in place nicely with a tiny dab of dielectric grease. I have rebuilt a few switches. There are descriptions of early and lat turn signal switch rebuilds on Fiddling with Z Cars.

HLS30-00058 has the later type HLS30-00059 has the early type HSL30-00452 has the early type

http://obituaries.commercial-news.com/story/Julian-Yudin-2011-718065911 https://casetext.com/case/smith-v-trimmell Source:https://archive.org/stream/chronicle731119unse#page/184/mode/2up

I cleaned up a spare set of rear signal bezels and ordered up some chrome body wrap. Time will tell but I'm hoping I can do a reasonable job with that instead of paint or paying some astronomical price to get them chromed... I know that CO's 280 has them painted silver, which as he will fully admit looks pretty horrible. I'm hoping to have an update this weekend...

Interesting to note the child in the car on the mom's lap.... not even a seat let alone a seat belt for the little guy!

That really depends on your car and your suspension set up. I have had issues with rubbing using 205/60/15's. But 205/55/15 seem to be okay. That was before I installed new springs and struts so now all of my knowledge is out the window. I raised the car about an inch so can I fit more tire now.. not sure. Probably. But how much. Unfortunately no way to know as even the same size tire can have quite different widths and diameters. Some people say they have a 205, but it is as wide as a 215. Unfortunately, their is no standard as the tires differ so much in design. This is where you really need a good relationship with a local tire shop which will allow you to try different sizes.

.59" OD smooth rod into .63" ID coupler would be just fine as long as you are going to weld it, that set screw on the Borgensen unit is just to hold it in place before welding. Not sure if you need another U joint added though, you would have to make that call. I'll have to have a look in my pile of steering shaft stuff to see what I can adapt to work or head off to the wreckers. I'll post some pics of the finished item.

I was able to find this http://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/013462/10002/-1 which is for a 5/8 diameter rod. However the stock Datsun steering shaft should be around .59 inches while 5/8 inches is .63. Would that be close enough to work? Or should I look into making my own coupler? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here is an easy, and relatively safe, way to check 12VDC circuits. Take two lantern batteries. Hook up the positive on one to the negative on the other. You now have a 12VDC source. You can connect the horn to the free positive and negative terminals. To test the horn button, find the connector in the steering column with the Green/Black wire. Use the resistance/continuity setting of the multimeter. Touch one probe to the G/B wire going to the horn and touch the other probe to the chassis. Press the horn button. If you don't have continuity, you have a problem with the horn button. If you do have continuity, put a wire into the dash side of the connector with the G/B wire and touch the other end of the wire to ground. If the horn doesn't sound, you likely have a problem with the fuse or horn relay.

Hi Kats, I'm not sure if I posted about this before, but last year when I bought HLS30-00210 I found that it had a solid cast hood emblem (along with solid cast 240Z quarter emblems and a solid cast rear deck Datsun emblem). The rear deck 240Z and fender Datsun emblems were hollow cast though. This is the only solid hood emblem I have seen before. HLS30-00032 came with all of its original metal emblems too, but its hood emblem was hollow cast. -Mike