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The seal needs to be flush with the back of the block. It will go deeper, ask me how I know. Had to order another one from nissan🤦‍♂️

@zspert , do you know if the heads for the program cars had hardend valve seats installed as part of the rebuild? What I'm really wondering is, should I be running lead-free additive in my car?

Thank you, that is a good back up plan if I can't find any. Thank you for the suggestion.

I never knew these baljoints can be taken apart.. as they are not that expensive i always installed a new set.. less than 100 euro's a set, orig. nissan parts. (No idea what they cost these days..) With new ones your not indanger to drive other people off the road, you sleep better.. ;-) Thanks Zed for that vid and the warning..

A brief update: I picked up the transmission jack at HF . Other stuff filled most of the day but I managed to get the jack in place and raise the tank with it. Actually got the filler hose and clamp in place. Yeah. then I went to the other end to raise and hook it up. That's when the filler hose came apart and fell back down. Turns out that I failed to raise the jack enough so that it would hold the filler tub hose clamp assembly together. My bad. Anyway, I now know that I can get the filler tube aligned and joined which was my original issue. By now my neck was telling me to take a break so I'll get back to it tomorrow smarter than I was today. Thanks for the advice all. Rodger

If you could even find an NOS switch it would be serious money.

Racing and her. The rest was just what he did to afford racing and her…

They do still sell "builders" but only if they have all the proper paperwork. Once the cars are in the yard they only sell parts off them. They always post the picture of the complete car from the pre yard lot. That one looks pretty complete, with good parts on it. Too bad it is so far from me.

Is it possible that you've misinterpreted the reference point for the 465mm measurement that appears in FSM drawing? The way I read the drawing, that 465mm measurement defines the distance from the so-called 'C-point' to the centreline of the moustache bar's chassis mount bushings (if you look really closely, you'll see the moustache bar's circular end loops defined just to the rear and inboard of the rear shock tower chassis mounts). Let's call this location on the vehicle the 'E-point'. The 'D-point' refers to the centreline of the top of the rear struts . But, according to the FSM drawing the centreline of the top of the struts lies directly above the centreline of the 'gearcase mounting rear crossmember' (which is a more useful reference point when taking measurements off the vehicle). The D-point sits 450mm aft of the C-point The E-point sits 15mm aft of the D-point (so 465mm aft of the C-point). The photo below (source?) provides a good visual reference for what all this looks like on the underside of a bare Z structure. As far as I can see (I could be wrong), the FSM drawing makes no attempt to provide dimensions for the location of the rear lower control arm and its mounting points. You'd need to construct your own layout drawing for the diff, moustache bar, and rear suspension in order to specify (in mm) the locations of the rear lower control arm and its mounting points relative to the C-point.

I snagged one of the earlier Nismo Safari Z Seiko’s back in 2023. They were a bargain at $299. I’d completely forgotten about it until a friend mentioned this new series and asked if I seen the news about it. Maybe it will be worth $399 at some point….. duPont REGISTRY NewsNissan x Seiko Debut The NISMO Safari Z Watch At SEMA, Li...When it comes to honoring motorsport history, Nissan knows how to do it in style. At the 2023 SEMA show, the JDM legend took the wraps off the new Nissan

Good deal! Keep that hammer handy!!

Haha ya, I considered it, but at nearly 800 bucks, and for the first time in more than 15 years decided to pay a local shop to do the work to save the time of doing it myself. They dipped, prepped the inside, and painted the outside and for 500 bucks I'd expect some quality work. I wasn't happy with the job they did and basically ended up redoing most of it myself anyway. In the end, would have save more money going with the S30.world tank Thanks @siteunseen ! Will take a read through that once I wrap up the tank

Managed to find a couple of the BRE cast aluminum adapters recently. https://www.ebay.com/itm/317146279997?_skw=Datsun&itmmeta=01K22V8ZHVKDFD1YZ2R67FYVVG&hash=item49d764303d:g:5ZgAAeSwYvNokRsm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4MHg7L1Zz0LA5DYYmRTS30kCoKfIwvB5xxhwqLfQsN2nCxk2lPQjX3YKVMYwrxYpvqUj44P448Su9W0IOyv9xeIAWjVrCeP8Fr2QU1TY9e7pNLlaT0BG9tj5zLexgY7byGGuH2yDK0OiyU3vR5fkXWKKN3IQdcSYmXNnnPXjRhXS2So%2FSPgQZXBaYiIZLQCVX3X7Vna%2FqJOosiRjsA69htfeltceq2Cf7k2gmZCY6J8H8hKNyQdK0sBnsetXbfjln%2FMlmTzAAStHKN2erVuANzBT9%2FZ1nAhivjZ33R04f%2B9W%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4z5o9uQZg

Have you started to identify which contacts they used inside the shell? There are lots of different members within the family, and I'm not sure which ones they used. They are the split finger version and are not gold plated... Those two things you can tell from just looking into the connector. But beyond that, I haven't looked into it. And also within the family... There is JT (Junior Timer), and JPT (Junior POWER Timer), I believe the major difference is the inclusion of a spring (on the power version) to clamp the female contacts closed tighter. So if you're concerned with contact force, maybe you could "upgrade" a couple contacts to a JPT version instead of the original JT? Not sure it's even possible, but just a thought.

Ahould i retard the timimg from 20 to 17 degrees and then adjust the fuel mixture in both su carbs? This are my engine specs.

I’ve never had much respect for the Chilton or Climer (sp?) service manuals, once I realized they were nothing more than stolen excerpts from the real service manuals and how they claim to handle all Datsun Z models from 1899-2050 in one book. Talk about cherry picking and massive omissions I thought Now that the real manuals are available online, I rarely look at them. However, the other day, I got a Climer manual with a parts horde and happen to flip through it just to see if I was missing anything. I might have to eat my critical words, when I found a compilation listing of what seems to be ALL the possible timing options 70-78. “Maybe” they did a bit more than just decide which pages of the FSM’s to include. This was sparked (see what I did there?) by a Z friend with limited Datsun knowledge who was asking me about timing specs for his 71, telling me he looked on line and found really wildly varying numbers and couldn’t decide which one was right. Well, there you go. the list shows a large variation depending. PS. It also has a pretty high quality set of schematics for the various years and transmissions all in one place. I read most of the text! .

One thing I never skimp on is fire extinguishers. I'd go with this one for your Z. https://www.h3rperformance.com/products/halguard-pro-halon-clean-agent-car-fire-extinguisher-1-25lbs Not cheap but very effective. Love the registration tags, part of the cars history @Captain Obvious Mine still has the original license plates from when it was new in Roseburg Oregon in October 1970, found the original plate frame from the selling dealer Burness Datsun. Even got a copy of the original title from the DMV.

Sorry to hear about you and Janet's health problems but like everything else, if there's one person that always figures out a way it's you. So glad to hear from you! Cliff

You did a great job, with both the car and the build thread. Thanks for the update. We now have closure! 😄

All, I have several NOS of this BMC: As you can see, it is missing the casting mark noted below: Can anyone identify the production period that my spare are applicable to? Thanks, Keith

I'm loosening up in my old age

It does help! Thanks very much!

Dodged a major bullet my friend!