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Well, for a watch in that price range it better be good.. ;)

There's no security problem and a chat bot has not taken over the site. lol Our SSL certificate expired the other day and was renewed within an hour. Basically, cert services can no longer offer automatic certificate renewals and must be manually renewed by yours truly. Our website runs all pages through secure (HTTPS) so none of your data can be viewed by a man in the middle. It takes manual intervention to keep a site like this online. :)

Says it sold for $38K.

Both XenonZcar and Nicoclub have downloadable factory service manuals.

I guess you could rotate the switch and see if the blue wire powers up. I cant think of any other reason for it to power up.

I was thinking more about the Spiderman meme of multiple Spiderman’s pointing at each other. But you’re right. Maybe I am a bot….. Maybe you are a bot…… Maybe we all are bots living in the matrix!

I am in the process of restoring a 280z where i will be adding the Rocket Bunny kit. This kit adds 4 inches to the width of the car so i will be adding larger tires. I've been doing research and found a few articles about current builds with this kit and they are running 17x9.5, -15 off set (FRONT), 17/10, -25 offset (BACK). or similar with 16 inch wheels all with the stanard bolt pattern 4:114.3/4:4.5 I am trying to find options and basically cant unelss they are completly custom which i probably dont want to afford. I technically found a way to do it with 5:120 bolt pattern and a more typical offset around +25 but i would be running 50mm spacers which isnt the best idea. I do like the deep lip offset look of the tires which i would lose by doing this. any suggestions?

I don't think that it takes much to lock up a 12 volt DC motor. There were probably a few rust spots sticking that got polished away once you got it spinning. If it was mine I would just use it until there are problems. If it's not making noise and it's pumping how would a new one be better? They're not really precision instruments, they just push as much fuel as they can according to how much voltage they see. The regulator controls the pressure. Should be fine, I'd guess.

We've been joking about Mike and chatbots but there really are some odd things going on. A few days ago the "not secure" page was coming up before signing in. Now the tag at the top just says not secure. Has a chatbot really taken over the site? This post must be approved by a moderator. Let's see. I'll post it on open chit chat too just for fun.

Looks like a nice clean car. GLWS

in 75 they are not greaseable and there are no clips. The joint caps are swedged in the yoke.

That's great! Yes they are difficult to get to. Especially with the driveshaft in place. Be sure and tighten the locknuts to keep things in place

I have a number of cars that sit for long periods of time. I use non ethanol fuel and Stabil. Typically keep the tanks full, to help with condensation. Rare for me to have a fuel issue and some may sit for 2 or more years, but I try to get fresh fuel in them yearly.

Probably bad bushings. Think I already said this before.

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

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I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.