Topics Last Week

Hello, everyone. I am also a member of S30 World. I’m very happy to be a member of the team. Thank you Carl. Carl recommended me to Chris’s big project. In addition, I definitely thank Alan for promising to join the team because I am a member. Chris visited my house in 2018. I was very impressed that he was very sincere about all the variations of our car. And his dream was to establish and enrich the museum with cars that have received great restoration work. It’s all because of the classic Zcar club. We have been learning a lot from the people here. I’m making a lot of friends here. We are all connected in a simple way. Z. We know that there are no cars that have been restored 100% correctly. The S30 World is trying to restore the car close to 100% correct. Chris’s great passion is outstanding. Many enthusiasts have been involved in his project. It’s like magnets on the fridge. I think all the posts here are worth reading to make our beloved cars more beautiful. I think people who post here are like magnets too. As Florian said, we are simple. We want to enjoy the S30 more and spread the joy of our cars to the world. If you see the car at the S30 World Museum, you will surely like it. We need to correct the “100% correct” word into the appropriate word. But all the black painted floors and other little things are repaired in good faith, so even if we don’t fix it, you’ll like it. Oh, stay tune, I will report an interesting things regarding S30 World soon. Kats

Any of you guys have had a driveshaft made up. I need the name of a shop that does datsun driveshafts.

No worries. You know me - I always like a good background story :-) I researched a bit. Ernst Seiler seemed to be a very illustrious person with a long Porsche racing history. I wasn't able to connect the dots between the two names, but it's very well possible. First I thought it was Heiko (Seiler) from Datsun.ch 's parents former Garage. But he confirmed that they only started in the late 70ies and the name was Garage Seiler in BE. The one mentioned in the booklet is from the AG Canton and the booklet is from the late 60ies or early 70ies, so it's possible that you are right. Interesting nevertheless. In Switzerland, during that period, there were many small, independent garages, but also some big names who quickly started to build large holdings based on small garages, gas stations, etc, and then became big names.

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

Excellent explanation of roof detailing and support. Proper flashing and sealing are key to preventing leaks and structural stress, especially around transitions and rafters.

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

I'm no expert but in the inertia switches I've installed I've mounted them to a hard point so any energy exerted on the unibody could be picked up by the switch.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.

Is it Charles ? My memory is short . I’d refer you to my thread on Hybridz . I managed to document a lot on there . I also have a thread on the Megasquirt install there . Ask away about anything you read HybridZ3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47

to last, they need to be welded really good and probably not just around the outer edge but somewhere internally to prevent flexing. Flexing there will eventually cause cracks just like the cars get sometimes at the upper rear qtr to roof joint

I was able to get M4-.7 x 20 oval head screws locally but had to paint the heads with gloss black rattle can. Needed fasteners to hold the A/C control panel on the ICF but no one has oval head thread cutting screws the right size. Ended up getting #6 x 3/4" wood screws which were also painted gloss black. Used a #6 countersink drill bit to prepare the plastic panels I fabricated (pix will follow soon). Looks great when assembled on my workbench and now looking forward to getting everything attached to the car.

I’ll have to recheck my setting for my stroker but I think my fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 180 ? I have an ECU so it turns on my fans at a lower setting at 185 and full speed at 195 .

Yeah, Im not convinced myself. This is their latest youtube video featuring the shell. As Alan mentioned above at the end of the day a Datsun with a body made in China isnt a Datsun anymore!

Thanks for the heads up. I will double check the seat mount location next time I am out there. I was thinking it might be the picture angle but won't hurt to check. Thanks!

@Mike As the title of this thread suggests... It's hammer time. It's time for you to wield the ban hammer. Wield it like Thor. ☠️ *If you wield a tool or a weapon, you handle it effectively. Picture a gallant knight wielding a sword or a skillful chef wielding a whisk. Or picture Thor. Or Mike.

Be patient, They are customer friendly and will get back to you. If your that concerned call them.

Won’t find this info on FB- lol. I worked on a 72 thru Covid . The guy texts me yesterday that he has no rear brakes . I put all new SS lines in his car and had to clean/ rebuild his brake switch valve . I’ve had the weirdest stuff with his brakes . The O rings failed on the brake switch and fluid was forced from one side to the other back up into the MC . Now his rear brakes don’t work - so after reading this I assume it’s that proportioning valve . I haven’t laid hands on it yet . Looks like I have good reference material here . Wish me luck

It's a remarkable bit of production. Kudo's to Nissan Canada for financing the project, and to the Canadian ad agency for designing and realizing a killer advert that properly and expertly recognizes the significance of the Z's role in creating Nissan's worldwide market presence (notwithstanding Nissan's Japan's efforts throughout the 1970's and 1980's to throw it all away). Additional kudos to Nissan Canada for providing its corporate facilities in Mississauga, Ontario as the venue for the annual show-and-shine meeting hosted b y the Ontario Z-Car Association (look it up). I'm really proud of Canada's (continuing) role in supporting the Z legacy. Here on CZCC, I would draw your attention to the importance of our Canadian members in making this site such a valuable Z resource. Those who come immediately to mind are 240/260/280Z (who's written a complete library of Z rebuild articles), along with Grannyknot, CanTechZ, Wheee and zKars (some of the best restoration build contributors that this site has enjoyed). I should also mention that, for years (dating back to 1994), Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings in Kingston, Ontario, was (I believe) the only source worldwide for decent replacement Z floor panels and front frame rails.

Car is running a little bit better now with the MSD Blaster 2 coil maybe its masking the problem only. Still testing the car. I did noticed the mechanic adjusted the carbs as follows: 4 turns down each carb, 7 at idle screw for front carburetor and 10 at idle screw for rear carburetor. The fast idle screw when raised to 2500 rpm gave different measures on front and rear carburetors.

@One4One I may have something, but I agree with Jim, make a wanted post. There are a few different harnesses for the 73.