madkaw

View Advert MN -47 cylinder head This is a very clean Maxima - N-47 Head. For those not familiar , it was the cylinder head used on the 2.4 engines for the Maxima series -1981-1984. This head will bolt on to any L series 6 cylinder block. These heads have an advertised 39 cc combustion chamber ( I’ve measured as much as 41), which makes for a perfect size for a higher compression build. The chambers are a bit smaller then the E-31 head, but a better chamber design. The valve sizes are 42/35 , so it already has the bigger exhaust valve. For some more performance the intake valves can be upgraded to 44mm valves . The exhaust side has liners , but flow very well and will not hinder performance for most performance builds. The high quench design of the chamber is very desirable in fending off detonation with a higher compression build. The ports are slightly smaller and have the D shaped intake port for a biased flow. The ports can be opened some, but for most builds it will flow well and help with low end torque. This head has been checked at the machine shop for flatness and cracks. The valves and guides were also inspected and I was told it was in bolt on condition. I have decided to throw in some 44 intake valves and rockers and will also supply a stock drilled cam . So you can throw this in as it is or upgrade to the bigger valves and upgrade the cam and have a very good performing head. There is no springs or lash pads , but I will supply a clean set of rockers that should be ready to run . I am asking 400$ for the package , shipping will be additional. Price can be less if buyer doesn’t want valves or cam, or rockers. These heads are very difficult to come by and you won’t be disappointed. I’ve never came across any L head this clean. Some CR numbers with this head combo .All approximations and based on 1.25 HG thickness.Also based on 39cc chambers advertised with these heads , so more likely the chambers are slightly bigger so less CR . I base the CR numbers higher because most heads require a small cut for flatness and or HG thickness might vary. L28 block with dished pistons =9:1 L28 block with flat tops= 10.75:1 L24 block= 9.5:1 I also will offer my services to help build this head to your specs and get it ready as a bolt on cylinder head. Please contact me for that service . contact me via email or PM sfinnerty1018@gmail.com Advertiser madkaw Date 03/06/2019 Price $400.00 Category Parts for Sale

Cars fitted with AC usually had 3 row radiators . The stock radiators flow really well.

Head still available . Offering 44mm valves for the intakes plus a clean set of rockers . 400$ for all items . Also offering help or assembly of head with your additional valve train parts( cam and springs ) at additional costs for labor . This would be an excellent high performance head with the right components ! sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

There is no bolt in crossmember . You will have to alter something to make it work . Some get away with just elongation of the mounting holes

According to the great Racer Brown , it can be as much as one degree of rotation( out of the 360) that the pistons hovers at TDC. The only way to be exact is with dial indicator with the head off. Using a dead stop to get exact TDC can be a challenge in that you might not add and subtract correctly with your degree wheel . And timing can make a huge difference in performance - whether valve or ignition timing .

Found mine - not a similiar year to my Z , but still that era

Yes - I need to repost this ad because it won’t allow me to edit it. sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Still have most of these items!

Still available !

Still available -100$ shipped

Probably 100 threads will come up if just google exhaust fumes. I use Por-15- good stuff

Well - I don’t know why that is . Try s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

Apply for a new title ! Got a bill of sale and get the car - especially if it’s decent. I got a 1970 that way. I don’t care if I don’t have the original title - ITS MINE ! Your going to have to make concessions to get an early one. I guess I won’t offer my 71 with no title and needing bodywork .

It would be a great head for a L24 . Not sure how big the ports can go - I know they are smaller . Great chamber design and square port exhaust .

The E-30 heads are 37cc Chambers compared to 39-41cc on the E-31 or E-88. I run 37cc chambers on my L24 , but it’s a e88 that has been shaved a bit ? I also have significant bore notching which lowers compression . That coupled with a 490/290 cam I have no issues with detonation with 93 octane. The L20 ran dished pistons with those tiny chambers

You should be fine with stock timing

Not really true on header options. A square port header will work fine on this head. It’s going the other direction -square port head to round port header- that doesn’t work. Yes the sweet e-88(E) heads we don’t get here, this is a nice compromise .

This is why butt welding gets tricky. Unless things are lined up perfect you can find yourself patching in gaps . I would recommend Cleco’s - you’ll wonder how you did without them. I learned my lesson with these panels - only cut off what’s bad on the original panels. Removing all of the old panel all the way to the inner rocker panel is usually not necessary , usually not much rust all the way up there anyway. I didn’t hardly catch this issue when I did mine. It made the floor slightly off level

IMHO - 44 for your engine size . If it was a bigger liter motor , or you were planning on spinning it way up high rpm , then maybe bigger valves . Can you go too big - I doubt it , so no time then the present to cover all the bases . Quite sure you can buy valves from Rebello - and he would give some free advice since your buying ?

I feel worried for my kids ( 22 and 28), for what they have to deal with . And that’s from every side. Liberal, conservative , it doesn’t matter. There is other issues like global warming , a smaller more connected world, and many other things that our unconnected , ignorant bliss life didn’t have to deal with at their age. The times - they are a changing ( confusing) - sing along.

I have a very clean cylinder head from a Maxima for sale as is , or build to suit. If you don’t know much about these they are a very nice option for a Z motor. Small well designed combustion chambers ( approx 40cc) with a nice quench pad to help resist detonation . It has exhaust liners , but they flow great unless your building a race motor. If you do some research you’ll find it makes a sweet little hot rod head for your block. The MN 47 head came with the bigger 35mm exhaust valves and has 42mm intakes . This head will work on any Z block , the only exception is that a stock L24 block might need to be clearanced on the exhaust side. I can walk anyone thru that detail. These heads are drilled to except both carbs and EFI. This particular head has been pressure checked, checked for flatness and has VG guides and valves in it now. You can literally pop in a cam and springs and go! Or I would be willing to do that also. Or put the bigger 44mm valves in this head and drop it in your L28 block and make a killer motor. This is one of the cleanest heads I’ve ever owned . Almost zero corrosion and clean as a whistle inside. Some good reading over at HybridZ’s about cylinder heads I am currently building this head for my L28 build. Ported and bigger intake valves! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39134-big-and-nasty-headwork/ So buy it as is or let me build you something . Contact me for details or more pics sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

20 gauge is probably closer to the gauge of the exterior sheet panel panels , but you can get 18 to work also. 16 gauge is flooring thickness . There will be quite a big difference in heat and difficulty in welding. Welding a bead will be tough with 20 . It will be slow hand and lower heat . Above recommendations of many spots and connecting the dots after words . Bounce around when doing a panel to disapate heat. Short beads after welding slots is good, but let things cool a bit before laying a bunch of beads . Practice !

You mean it IS being used?

Get a box end wrench and a dead blow to simulate an impact wrench. Put wrench ( box end) on the bolt , hit wrench with 3lb dead blow to break bolts loose. It might take a couple of tries . I leave the spark plugs in to make the engine more difficult to turn over .

It always bothered me that there isn’t an indicator on the dash to verify I am in 3rd gear and not 5th. Just because I push the shifter further over - how do I really know that I am in 5th and not 3rd? Just because I follow the pattern on that stupid little knob doesn’t mean I have actually changed anything