madkaw

We are our worst critics . Looks like you are doing this at your own garage and not a paint booth . I can see how straight the doors are from the pics . I am retired now and still would have a hard time dedicating that much time( energy). I would like to work on Z ‘s in retirement for some fun and mad money for myself, but it’s still work at times.

Truly amazing . The paint looks gorgeous. How many hours a week do you devote to Z work?

Amazing find!

Would you elaborate?

What diff do you have ? And did safety wire the bolts?

Apples to oranges - I have the Subby STI diff, so that might things different for me as far as noises. The design might have also evolved to something different also.

I might be wrong - but get ready for some clunking in the rear. There seems to be excessive radial movement in the joint - slop. Supposedly these axles were engineered more specifically for 4wd vehicles. I’m not going to pretend I’m an engineer , but there are some unhappy folks with these. Now I’ve put them thru some serious stress testing , but my HP isn’t to your level. Just today I was under the car cleaning and inspecting and couldn’t find see anything wrong . Initially when I bought these the instructions were okay, but had the wrong torque value on the Allen bolts and I stripped one. After a phone call I got it straightened out. Safety wiring is a bitch .

Never mind

Some dizzies have 17 degrees of vacuum advance so I guess you could see that much with the advance plugged in. There’s a chart out there that tells how much advance based on dizzie number .

Yep- disconnect that vacuum advance . Does it miss at lower rpm pulling a slight hill? How did you know it was 50 degrees ? Was this just revving in the driveway? Ignition issues like to show up with heavy loading at lower rpms -especially if it’s lean. Have you checked your mechanical advance operates smoothly?

It sure if anyone has interest in my truck project , but it’s actually starting to look like something . Always kind of fun getting the body panels on after being off for a year- oh yeah- that’s what it looked like -lol. really anxious to get the motor in and be able to move this thing around. It’s slowing me down not being able to move it to the studio. This will be a fun install. A very tall motor in a tall truck - it will be close !

Very nice .

I run the BWT -5 with 3.90 gears. 1st gear is mostly useless . In 4th it’s not bad, but I have a cammed motor. My motor just starts to smooth out at 3500+ rpm. I’m just starting to get in my power band. Like to have taller 1st and 2nd gears , but makes for a very quick launch.

I’ve considered new strut rubber mounts solely for the reason of NVH. After years of abuse I would think the rubber gets work hardened and brittle and does not absorb the road noise as well. How much can we ask from 45 year old rubber parts ? One reason I have NOT gone the coil over design is because of the pillow mount which eliminates the rubber cushion . These cars ride harsh enough with stiffer springs and shocks , then connect everything without rubber - eek. I guess it depends on your usage . I’m looking for more refinement in my ride and still have it sporty . I’ve considered new strut mounts to help with this. As far as OEM vs aftermarket , a 100$ difference for 4 items I can do . Ideally I’d like adjustable Koni and all new rubber with my ST Springs . Camber can be achieved by slotting the mounting holes for the insulators , but some might not feel comfortable with that.

Have you run the engine enough to pull the plugs and look? Terrapin has a good point. Had the same issue of one carb being lean( equals 3 cylinders) . Not sure if you are running a vacuum advance or not, but if she’s real lean and not enough timing she’s going to balk.

This pic jars my memory

You should have my number if you want to talk about it.

Make sure you get your old (unusable) ones back.

#retiredlife. I am tired from working on being retired .

I didn’t think your door cards were that bad a shape ! Maybe I didn’t look close . Good luck

Maybe the cam had been dropped at one time and was cracked - and it finally gave out.

That part went well!

It’s funny how you need to get to work when you retire from work!-lol! I can’t keep up with retirement .

Lots of meat on that header flange . I might consider a little sanding on the thermostat housing . I believe I had to trim the gasket too

Can’t believe this thread is 4 years old. Man I’m slow. I did order a cam today for the build . Potter Racing cam! Once I have it in hand I can actually start the rest of the assembly. Need to work out lash pads once cam is here, then check PVC - hope that works out well -eek! Meanwhile the 3.2 block gets a bath so I can drop the crank in!