madkaw

Yes the heater needs to heat up the sensor so the initial readings might be off. Containment’s will ruin a sensor . Coolant from a HG failure will do it for sure, but oil will ruin the sensor too.

Some how I ended up with a set of the rear quarter ends that were cut off #777 I believe . The owner was selling all his extras and why someone would have cut off good corners I’ll never know, but I’ve kept them just because it would be hard to fix that area. Though my 3 Z’s are all good in that area

I think you need to just open your wallet and get another AAR valve. I didn’t know you could adjust them, but yours does not seem to be working correctly. It sounds like there isn’t proper movement of the valve - as in , not enough, which might not be adjustable . 1000 rpm cold is not too much- if not enough really.

Disconnect your brake booster and purge canister also looking for vacuum leaks

If the AAR valve is only open a sliver when cold then it is not working properly. The thermotine switch is a ground for the AAR so it has to work correctly . Do not put AAR in any water . The AAR should be fully open when cold and close slowly with voltage . Ohms tests with the EFI bible will show this. Sounds like you also have a vacuum leak

Like Zkars said- it’s all about the size of the brake MC booster unit getting bigger and causing the spacing of the holes in the firewall to change - this changing the spacing - this changing the alignment of the rod going thru the firewall - this screwing up everyone’s day

Make sure you are on compression stroke if you are checking chain stretch using the cam marks. I usually find something to stick in #1 spark plug hole that will pop out easy when you are turning over the engine and it builds compression. My favorite hole stopper is a large vacuum plug shoved into the spark plug hole. Believe me , you’ll know when TDC compression is coming. as far as the pulley marks, if you look closely , one V mark is bigger then the others , that’s TDC. Use the crank pulley to turn the motor

Get yourself some Cleco’s , it will help you very much in this endevour . I posted a thread many moons ago about installing the pans - it might help

Well NO LEAKS and a happy owner ! It wasn’t that simple of course. I talked the owner into a new timing chain because the sprocket showed abnormal wear - especially for only 30k miles. And the owner still says swears it actual miles. When installing the new chain guides I found the reason for the abnormal wear. It was odd that the chain was stretched but the tensioner was fully seated and the reason for that was someone put the wrong length bolt in the thermostat housing which actually pushed the straight guide out a couple of mm. Of course the new chain guide bolt holes didn’t line up because there was a bolt in the way. Anywho, the engine runs fantastic - for a stock L28 with an automatic. I put a stereo in his car because I had to flush his heater core and change hoses anyway. The car rides really quiet even with worn out seals. It really is a nice car. I went over the owners house to say hi and pull a spark plug and the burn was perfect. The owner is a little disappointed with the power output and the auto doesn’t help, but he admitted that it was a fine sports car and liked the way it drove. He’s already asking me about power upgrades .

Date?

I think Branson Missouri - no?

So did they announce location for 2019?

So close to factory !

Interesting ! Some things to consider with my race car ( well someday ). John as good people and shared with me some experience he had for working with Rebello and it was helpful. So bigger connected rails are okay , but only spot weld ?

Probably wasn’t an OEM sprocket . I believe it’s every fourth revolution the links end up correctly.

I believe one tooth is 9 degrees

Looks like the tool is in there

Why do more guessing than he needs to. If he turns the crankshaft slowly and carefully while holding the chain he can get it to O. It wouldn’t take hardly anything to get to TDC, then figuring the camshaft location is much easier since you have the alignment marks to judge where to put the sprocket. I just went thru this because I forgot to mark the link when I removed the sprocket. I knew it was on #3 when I removed the sprocket , but dummie me forgot to mark the link. I was able to locate sprocket properly by using the factory alignment marks ( the - and the v) Logically if you are TDC on the crankshaft that is just one less thing to guess.

Well looks like a while since I updated this. Well the owner took the car home without me getting any significant seat time. He hadn’t insured the car so I only went around the block with it. I told him he would taking it at his own risk . And guess what- it over heated on the way to his house. Idled perfectly as he left and later I get a call with him saying -“ I think it over heated “. In fact it had. He’s not too mechanical minded, so it didn’t register that the steam at the gas station might be an indicator somethings wrong. So I went to his house and sure enough - water in the oil. But why did it overheat when I idled it at my house forever and took it around the block with no problems. Took the radiator to the radiator shop and they said it was toast. So we proceeded with a HG replacement . And of course while we’re at it we had the head sent to the machine shop for a valve job. Running water in this engine had just caused too much damage and we we had to replace anything that the water touched. Also found that the somewhere in its life the valves made contact with the pistons . Since the cam sprocket was on #3 , I figured someone didn’t get the adjustment right the first time or something like that. We pulled the freeze plugs and were glad we did, they needed changed because of the water . The head just needed a slight skim to get it true and the valve guides and valves were in good shape. The machinist just had to touch the valve seats a bit. So I get the engine all back together and it runs perfect! I check the oil and I’m still getting water in the oil- WTF! Now I’m worried that the block is cracked . The owner is freaking out and thinking he is in too deep. In my mind, it runs too good to be a crack block. No bubbles or air in the radiator . How to figure this out? So I got a radiator pressure checker from Oriellys . I pressurized the system at normal pressure and with the valve cover I could here a faint his coming from the timing cover -down inside . But what am I hearing ? So I bumped the pressure up to 15lbs and bingo - the seal on the timing cover that was hissing is now spraying water into the timing cover . Good news is I found it, bad news is I have to pull the hole front end apart again. Alas , owning a vintage machine can go like this. I told the owner that in the end he will have one of the nicest 280z’s in the Midwest when it’s done . And almost a rebuilt motor -ha. We are going to do the timing chain also

DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE YET! You should have lined up the crank sprocket on 0 first before putting on cam sprocket . It will be tricky to keep tension on the chain , but you should be able hold the tension tool in place and move the crank that small bit. THEN install the sprocket

Im in ! ?

I’m jealous , but also happy for you guys. Looks like the weather is nice .

I hate missing it. So it’s Branson Missouri ?

I’m out guys. My back is not doing so well. Sitting in one position is the worst scenario for me. I guess my tune up was a failure .

I’ve learned to work the clutch around the clunk. I can make mine clunk at will , but I can also clutch finesse around it. I feel like I’ve done everything. I think my CV axle upgrade has too much slop in the joints .