madkaw

Get a bucket of white vinegar and drop it in, you’ll be amazed! Don’t forget to do a baking soda and water mix after it’s clean to neutralize the acid. white vinegar can be had for 2.50 a gallon . 5 or 6 gallons in the tank rotating a few hours or more and you’ll have a clean tank. Might need to use a high pressure hose to knock loose some stuff, but the vinegar is great and a great weed killer

I found one local, but I discovered later it had a crack on the underside. Sad thing is I can’t either handle to work worth a damn. My car was an auto whe I first got over 25 years ago, but I dont remember it being this sloppy. Are they all that bad? Adjusting the thing doesn’t help much. Might need to start a thread . thank you for the reply

Wow- would have loved to have had that access cleaning my 77 tank. It really wouldn’t have helped much though with my issue of clogged return line . White vinegar and Por-15 kit she is good to go

Looking for just the handle ( T) part of the selector in good condition .

Mikunis are fine for everyday use. You need to describe what aspect of the power train makes it not a daily driver. Mikunis were sold as kits to bolt in to stock Z’s like putting a 4 barrel on a Chevy. It’s not the Mikunis but the whole package. They could be tuned wrong or you have other engine issues

Disregard - I had an extra manifold that still had it - lucky me

Looking for the wired selonoid that screws into the BCCD valve. The wire is broke off inside the plug. I’m going to try and fix it but I need a back up plan. Item is pictured on the left.

So the owner came by last night to check progress. The story goes that the owners grandmother was the original purchaser. The son received the car from her and when the son had to leave the country , the brother got it. Then the brother willed the car to his niece. Now the niece( 30 years old maybe) is chatting with the dad who would like the car back if she doesn’t want it- WOW! I was able to get a shine out of the paint somehow - on a small spot. They couldn’t believe it. I think there was so much oxidation it actually protected the paint , but I know it probably won’t last. I guess this car would fit the true survivor category . Spent most of the day trying to get the EFI plumbing back to snuff. The 76-77 had too many clamps with its piece mealed trumbone of a fuel rail- PITA. 40 new clamps and new hoses later I’m getting close. Old clamps weren’t trust worthy since the braided hose diameter and modern fuel line differed so much. Probably another day or so to hear this thing fire for the first time in 20 years!

I tried texting and the message failed

Got to admit- the car looks nice ! almost funny, but not, the parts car I was referring too in my case was the same color . Guy told me he bought it and drove it and we got it on a lift he couldn’t believe how bad it was . I wasn’t trying to discourage effort , but you have a lot of work ahead of you . Lots of good people and help here

RUN IT!

So was the damper a rebuilt one? It’s hard to tell from the pic. Could a out of balance damper help work a bolt loose? I know the Damper Doc bragged about how his rebuilds were good for 10k rpm and 400 ft lbs of torque. Never tested that , but a fresh bond on the damper makes me feel good about revving it out. This does make me research more about loose crank pulley bolts.

I just pitched a pair , I might be able to find them and look. They said -made in USA- on them, didn’t give them a second look. New ones leaking that quickly -ugh

Good point! My best parts I acquired for my 240 came off a car just like that. The guy said it almost broke in half. Had almost perfect door cards though.

I’d locktite the next stock bolt on the next rebuilt stock damper and call it good. Your not running forged pistons and running 9k rpms are you? If the problem was a bolt coming loose, lesson learned . I do plan on running some kind of fancy damper on my Rebello- if I ever see it- but I think I transplant my L24 damper( rebuilt) on to my L28 build. And make sure I locktite it!

I appreciate everyone’s optimism to save all the Z’s, but this one should probably be parted out. This is not novice territory. This will be a hard lesson on biting off more than you can chew. No garage, not even thinkable. Part it out and find another body- you’ll save time , money and stress in the end

Thanks for the thread referral , didn’t think that Rock auto would have it, but they did. So no longer need this guys!

MSA went back order, thanks . Thought someone might have stripped this off their car and wasn’t using it

I see lots of those boxes around my house-lol

See pic. Just need the valve on the end(plastic with two nipples)

Parts are still coming off, and still amazes me how these west cars clean up. Got the rear brakes done. The brakes had been done recently( mileage wise) , the only thing bad was the brake hoses and wheel cylinder . The car sat so long , moisture finally pitted the wheel cylinder bore , but just barely . No reason to try and save USA made wheel cylinders . The front brakes were the same way. Brake hoses cracked , brake lines had old fluid, the calipers had minor pitting and the dust seals were all crusty. The rotors might have cleaned up by just driving it around , but when it comes to brakes , I don’t skimp . So new calipers, rotors, hoses . The car sat square on all its corners , so I’ll be interested to see how the shocks feel. The springs and shocks look so clean and the rubber boots ( I guess that’s what you call them)are all in tact . I’m Doing the front steering as I’m doing the brakes . The boots were gone on the tie rod and ball joint, but fortunetly the PO greased the hell out of everything . There was a huge protective layer of grease that kept the elements out. Bearings cleaned up as new . All the zinc is still shining really well. The sway bar bushing were shot front and back, but I had extra urethane ones sitting around. I was actually able to salvage the original end links , the nuts just came loose! Got lucky on the steering rack boots and half shaft boots , no tears or cracking.

Cliff- be aware that the inline filter at your fuel rail could cause issues of internal failure. There are sections that can come loose and actually inhibit flow

Speaking from experience with Megasquirt, he could install it as easy as trying to get the stock induction/ emission/ EFI going- IF- he gets help from someone like Softopz to get him a head start . Yes , a factory FSM helps going back stock , but less components and newer technology offsets that. I think all these options/ opinions will help the OP make a better decision

Just bought some on flea bay last week. Come with connector and about 6” of wire. The newer connectors have a better retaining clip that just snaps in place

If it’s just connectors replace them . 25$ would get you a whole set. Learn to solder and call it a day . Or pay 1000$ for a new harness if you could find one . All these cars have bad FI connectors by now