Yarb

There are 2 resistor modules located next to the clutch master cylinder that are in that circuit iirc. Lift up the inspection lid and check those connections

Have you checked the harness for 4,5,6 with a noid light?

There they are #14

I have not but interesting.

Would be nice to see a diagram of a factory ZX master cylinder to verify if the check valves are there. I have 3 aftermarket units and all 3 have them.

Didn’t the 79/80 ZX come with rear disc? I had the same conversation with Edan quite awhile back. He referred to them as check valves.

Very well could be but with the age of the injectors would it not be a good idea to go ahead and have them cleaned and remove that variable? Good chance the other 3 aren’t in the best shape. Just a thought?

I’m inclined to think that it was air in the system. Can’t see where over filling would be an issue as long as the Mc has sufficient fluid to work properly. My two cents. Either way I hope you have this wrapped up.

https://ebay.io/m/kdADUO This is the only one I could find on short notice where pigtail wires weren’t already attached. Splicing wires is something I wouldn’t recommend.

I rebuilt the entire harness replacing every connection. I was chasing a ghost until I finally bit the bullet. Started with the injectors, then thermostat housing, etc. That was a major hurdle that solved many issues. Amp is an electronic connector fabricator. Let me search for some p/n’s for you.

I basically replaced harness plug with a new one from AMP. Solved Many issues I had at the time.

I checked on google last night found over 10 businesses that clean injectors. A lot cheaper than buying new ones for sure.

Google injector rebuilders on line to be cleaned. Send all 6 to them to be refurbished. There’s a guy here in Florida that cleaned mine. Don’t recall the name. There are companies out there. Some will send you a video of before and after video of all 6 performing under different conditions.

Send @Mike a pm

Because they know you can order it from your local dealer and save you time researching the OE p/n. May or may not still be available from Nissan.

Hopefully you removed the mechanism and did a thorough cleaning and proper lubrication before reinstalling the drum. The right hand side should be serviced as well while you have the car off the ground.

There’s also corrosion build up between the drum and the outer axle. Grab a dead blow hammer and give it a go.

That’s corrosion you’re probably dealing with. Best bet would be to remove the drum.

I remember removing the valve and installing the plate from ZCD. No instructions of course and the idle was hanging around 1800 rpm. I think it was @siteunseen that posted there was a port inside the afm that needed to be plugged. I plugged it and it solved my issue with the plate. Of course that may not be the case here but my bcdd valve was apparently stuck open in some form or fashion.

Cap the bccd port. That’s a direct path that bypasses the afm. IIRC

@HS30-H I appreciate your prompt reply. Thanks again for the input. John

@HS30-H I had a question earlier in the thread. Would you give me your opinion please. Thanks, John

So the question I have is it not a good Idea to run lines from the crankcase and valve cover to a catch can? I’m going to run triples with no capacity to run a PCV valve.

A little more information about the issue would be appreciated. Common problem with the handles breaking.

Site Librarian to the rescue!!