Yarb

That included his machine work?

I have the LD crank and N42 block. What’s a ball park figure for Rebello’s parts and labor?

Try reaching out to @zclocks on the forum. He would be the expert in that.

Cliff can you confirm the washer orientation on the TC rods?

Maybe some of the other members can chime in to clarify.

Awesome, Keep up the good work...

Is it me or are You’re strut rod washers inside out?

Looks Great....

Sent some pics to The supplier. I wonder if the frame rails differed between model years. Also if you look at the other side of the frame rail next to the strut rod you'll see it's flat all the way up to the firewall area where you could weld it if you moved the rail forward.

I think If you look at your forward frame rail you will see that the steel shrinks in size a bit and turns towards the strut rod bushing. If my piece is cut correctly that’s as far as it goes where it can be welded to a flat surface. I agree I should not have to notch anything. Where it’s marked is the base of the origin rail causing it to teeter totter for and aft. Also, I know you probably can’t see it from the pic but if I move it either direction the current notch will ride up on another spot weld.

I started today by cutting off the horizontal brackets on the middle of the rail in order to slide the big dog rail over the existing factory rail. This will give me an idea of what else needs modification. The rails themselves are in good shape. These rails were designed to attach to the sides of the factory rail. I took a couple of pics this afternoon while I was test fitting the rail. The rails are notched in various areas to match the floor pan. Right off I found An area that requires another notch cut out to clear a factory weld on the current rail. Once that’s done I’ll test fit the rail again.

Yes

Not sure what direction to go. I originally thought to just patch that one area. The rails I bought don’t have the right angle bend that attaches to the floor. These weld directly to the side of the original rail. The issue I have now is if you look at that first pic you’ll see that horizontal tab welded right in the middle of the two bad areas. I can trim the ears off but the cap/rail which ever I decide to use still won’t lay flat. What a mess...I have the necessary equipment available to use. Just need a little guidance so I don’t destroy what’s there now.

Yes, only that one area is bad. Checked both sides with endiscope. Everything else on the car seems to be fine.

Purchased a set of rails from Bad Dog Parts.Has anyone installed a set of these on a 280Z? Looking for some tips for the installation. They are designed to fit over the existing rail. In my pics you can see a tab that’s welded horizontally across the rail. Even if I cut off the ears the rail won’t fit flat onto the rail. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Talented Young man!

Looks Awesome!

Sounds about right.

Just got mine back from them. Had no idea they offered powder coating. Man.......

Just bought this endoscope off Amazon to inspect my frame rails. If it’s there you’ll see it. Works great the lead can be formed to any angle you need. It also has a magnet and hook attachment .

My apologies, I overreacted without giving it more thought. Welcome to the forum.

I think what’s happening is your self promoting your business. I think their are better avenues to take such as a corporate sponsorship supporting this forum.

???

Poked around with the ice pick today. Visually I can see some rust crawling up the side in the affected area as grannynot mentioned. Did not find any other soft spots beyond that area. Should have my borescope on Sunday. Did not get a response back about purchasing sections of the rail. Only other option would be to buy a complete rail and section out what I need.

I understand completely. This is the first 280 I’ve owned. We had 3 240’s at one time back when I was a lot younger. They had the rail damage back then but most of it was from PO jacking it up in the wrong place. We’ll see what we’ve got when I post the pictures.