jonbill

I guess you know the Dupuytren's is fixable, but not the arthritis. what you need is a younger keen relative who'd like to inherit it. you can be the brains and they can be the brawn.

I did read on the speeduino forum that 1 wire sensors don't work well. I think just getting a later thermostat body with more holes would be best option.

Sorry, I've never seem that system 🙂 what happens if you unplug that switch?

can you describe what you've got in a bit more detail @jas. you've mentioned EGR and water temp switch, neither of which I'd expect on a 72 carb car.

got a pic of your spark plugs?

Does your thermostat housing not have a blanked hole next to the standard sensor housing? mine does, its a standard size, m12 maybe.

The Zclub in the UK has a thread on seat upgrades at the mo with some interesting options. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/seats-again.27924/

standard gasket is 1.2mm installed.

they don't have struts, but they do have strut inserts : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04

must be an electrical problem. Maybe your alternator is over or under charging?

If it was smokey, make sure you change the valve stem seals. Maybe even check the guides aren't too worn. It won't be the compression rings.

not only will it take a lot of filing, I imagine it'll be under quite a bit of stress, being that compressed. And if the bore isn't round, it'll still not seal, as @zedhead pointed out.

I don't think there's a down side to a big cam in a Z. Mine is ~15mm lift and it goes like a normal engine below 4k rpm and a not so normal engine above. No 'driveability' problems anywhere. You wont get the full benefit without exhaust, carb, head etc improvements but it won't hurt.

is your current ring end gap 0.049"? thats 1.2mm, which is very big. my recollection of the spec is around 0.3 to 0.4mm for the top ring.

I don't think any original standard Nissan pistons have cut outs like that. on the compression rod, I have these, which are cheap and effective. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4190 I had poly bushes both sides before I fitted them, and I had a lot more roll after I fitted them which I think shows how much load they were taking.

I've got an e88 skimmed to 36cc chambers on a "big bore l26" and 10.5:1 CR I built recently. There's no problem with chain tension or cam timing. It hasn't run yet but it won't ping on decent fuel I'm sure.

Apologies, I misunderstood 😅

The standard gasket is 1.2mm, so you can't have a head gasket 1.25mm thinner. You can oval the mount holes in the tensioner and Slack side guide to take up the slack.

If you take it off at the pedestal (two bolts) then you don't even need to mark it - it can only go back on in one position, the position it came off.

42 DCOE, so medium ones. I'd think 45 as a minimum.

I'm sure DCOEs can reach the full potential of the DSI stage 3 engine. They'll just have to be big ones.

Up until I swapped to EFI last year, I was using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator. Now I'm on EFI, I'm using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator 🙂 The fuel pump has done about 200,000 miles, so I think it's good on the reliability front.

I can vouch for the importance of heater control. I swapped out my wideband controller yesterday from an old Prosport one to a 14point7 one. The prosport one would jitter around 13.8 to 14.5 at idle whereas the new one only varies by 0.1 or 0.2. I understand this is because the new one controls the temperature much more accurately.

It has a similar shape to the distribution of votes in your recent election.

similar to my experience Ali. That's not hot enough to need an oil cooler!