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Packerz

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About Packerz

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Western North Carolina
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About My Cars
    Live in Western North Carolina. Asheville/Hendersonville area. Frame-up restoration restoration; 85%-90% original with tasteful, non-280Z year specific, OEparts upgrades: appearance and performance. Competition full-rebuilt 3.1 L28 with 5 speed tranny. Extremely attractive “chameleon-ish” paint with normal, very dark racing green...occasional hint of Jaguar light metallic blue tint in certain sunlight conditions and near black in some no-light garage settings. Owner since 1994.

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  1. Perhaps last question- did 74 260 use same single threaded body mount as a 77 280? If so, In the same spot? Thanks!
  2. Conedodger, I don’t want to beat this thread into the ground, however, I still have questions about how you bolted (?) the rear floating sides to a 280 body. Did you keep filler rubber 3pcs. & use/keep the 2 outside rubber trim pcs? Did you use anything in between back of bumper and body? How did you bolt bumper into the body...did you drill a hole through the bumper face and run bolt on in to the body...my rubber trim pcs. won’t allow a bolt head/cap under them. On each bumper (about 4” from end) I can feel a small,short kind of plate inside the bumper with two (6mm? sized) holes in them but I have no clue how to use them in any kind of bolt mounting into body....not to mention the fact that these small plates w/ holes are already forward of threaded hole and will only move even further forward if entire bumper moves forward in potential shock compression. Trying to keep my questions and posts shorter but I don’t get the missing link of necessary bolt-ups ,into or away from, the back of bumper and then bolt thread into body (can’t visualize using the 280 “mount hole” for anything w/out some offset insulator-kind of item. This would still puzzle me in any custom fabricated conversion insulator/bracket. What am I not seeing how you have accomplished??🤔
  3. Wow! Great info. Did you do this strut compression and keep the 3 rubber fillers on each bumper? Most importantly, what did you do for side connection (s) to side body?? Were you able to use just the single threaded bolt-to-body mounting? What conversion did you use or make for that 3-4” gap connector??? If I get that item for rear bumper, I’m back in business! Th front bumper will need side connection also but it is much more stable than the rear’s wide gap and long “floating” sides. I am super anxious to hear the most important piece of your “how-to !!! Thank you👍👍. Doug
  4. Maybe these will help. Front bumper: Hard to visualize if Compressing front bumper strut allows lining everything up by pushing entire bumper/filler/side rubber “cap assembly back toward body...where to drill fluid release hole in shock? Even so, there will still need some type of transition pc to fill gap between mounting hole in bumper (hidden behind rubber trim with 6 small molded-in “rivet-Type” screws) and some potential bolt thread hole in front body metal.... hard to figure out how any kind of bolt could be covered by those trim rubber though? Rear: please note last four photos. Shows current “attachment” w/ driver-side shock pushed in....result of someone... never mind🤫. Compressed mounting on that side leads me to believe bumper and filler will line-up Ok in center when passenger side shock is (properly) compressed. Here comes the However, notice the large gap on sides...even with some forward movement of entire bumper while trying to avoid near contact with wheelwell raised lip...still results in a 3-4” gap between backside of bumper and (closeup photo of threaded mounting bolt “hole” in my 280) body. This is the most problematic issue in a finished conversion for me. Any conversion pc. must allow for the offset mounting points existing between 260 bumper and 280 body (in any bumper position, using existing filler or trying flush fit . Is this something any 240/280 conversion product could be easily modified to accomplish? My sincere thanks to this forum, I do appreciate your interest, input...and patience. Doug
  5. cgsheen1: thank you. I have most, if not all the body-to-bumper pieces already. Currently, bumpers are just bolted to the 280 “crash shock” plates with two accessible bolts...an OK arrangement just to hang them. However the sides are just kinda “free floating” because I could not use the 280 body mountings. I never got any 260 side mount brackets (purchase did include front override bar and fairly decent rubber trim appearance and filler pieces). Therefore, I don’t have “donor” 260 braces to try and fabricate some small conversion piece at the body mounting ends of a 260 bracket to my single bolt 280. These possibly could be the easiest thing to have fabricated ... could anyone on this forum do this for me at a fair price? I would have to attempt sourcing good used early 260 brackets F&R... but potentially bumper distances, fillers fit, AND all mountings line up and direct mount to my 280. With my luck, that might seem the easiest but...would not be the best/practical/ reasonable $$ path....🙄. Any input on this? I think you are absolutely correct in your last post re: pushing sides to far forward by simple shock compression. Kills that Thanks Zed, Yes, I could either source used 260 bumper support braces to convert, taking bumpers (brackets)and car to some type of metal fabrication shop & sharing some visualization of goal. Asking them a fixed price for creation of a conversion or just building whole new brackets w/necessary side mountings. Asking them (no idea of how to identify trusted source) if they would create a “one of a kind” 4-pc custom job...for some “reasonable” cost. Perhaps only way to determine cost/ability of ever using existing 260 stuff-or is there some Z club member doing metal fabrications (or local person/place close to WNC area) that someone could refer me to and discuss how-to? I appreciate all the input I have received and truly trying not to discard any offered options. Trying very hard to remain hopeful of some positive $$ resolution before accepting my 260 bumpers only useful for 260 replacements and no conversions value! Only source of buyers=260 owners? Very hard to swallow until all experiences and input asked... My Thanks to all! Doug
  6. Hi to all! I am trying to find a source that would enable me to make a direct bolt-up of my set of early 260Z bumpers to my 1977 280. I can find lots of conversion kits to mount 240Z bumpers, but didn’t the early 74 260 bumpers sit slightly further from the body than any of the 240’s? If so, wouldn’t the 260 mounting bracket be slightly different (longer?) than any 240? I can only find 70-72/73 240 style to 280 conversions with “some fabrication necessary” forcing the user (me 🙁) to bend/weld modify and I’d have to have this fabricated =$$ and trusted source...Doesn’t’ anyone make a conversion bracket expressly for an early 260 to a later 280 using stock 260 bumper mountings and attaching this bracket directly to my 280...using the stock 280 attachment (single threaded “hole”) on body. Does this exist? Source? I’m at a stop on this, Help please! Thanks!
  7. Packerz

    Mystery Part? part two

    Sorry! Original post was 10/17 in “help me” forum. Thanks!!!
  8. Packerz

    Mystery Part? part two

    Earlier post re: open space in dash molding on 1977280. Replies did confirm this open area as the place for a dash mounting screw. That being confirmed as the reason for the cutout, I still have doubts about that cutout area not being covered in some way. It looks too obvious/unfinished...even for a series l 😉. Wasn’t there some type of plastic cover (molded plastic insert?) to fill space after dash screw installed... press on/pop open cover for access ?? I could paint that area black to reduce contrast of the original body paint color behind dash and visible in this cut out area....I just can’t believe it wasn’t a covered access. Trying not to obsess but it is so obvious with original light blue metal!!! Earlier thread seems to have ended in an accident experiences🙄🍻. Thank y’all for any pertinent input to this seeming mystery! Please respond to e-mail dbparker54@yahoo.com
  9. Packerz

    Need help identify missing part

    Thank you for your reply to my posting. I truthfully do not remember this open space originally but I cannot figure out what could have gone there it was over a year before I started this project. I should have taken pictures to refer back to...I never dreamed I wouldn't put this all back together SO much sooner and just put all the nuts, screws and panels/parts in a box marked "interior"🙄 It just seems so odd that this space would have been left open from the factory...but then again, I don't have anything in my "interior box" left over. Still a mystery if it was (what) or never was to begin with and try to ignore... so many mysteries were found , and had to be solved, during this "project". Thank you again for responding!!! Doug
  10. Packerz

    Need help identify missing part

    Hello! I am Nearing completion of a restoration (final phase is interior renewal/replacement of original finishing panels) for my 1977 280. I need help identifying missing part for space "cut out" . This empty space is above drivers side lower finishing panel (above hood release and vent Knob) and below dash. There is a threaded attaching spot in the middle of this open area on the metal behind dash/panel . My car has factory A/C if that matters? I will try to send picture attachment to clarify mystery space🙄 If it would be better to post this question in another forum, please let me know...I'm trying to access a 280Z (1977?) "resident guru" 🙏 Any help...please e-mail me directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. This is the final step in a long (Very Long) restoration so I'd like o solve this mystery and call it done🍻 Thank you for any mystery solution! Doug Parker. PackerZ I will send photo from my I phone in separate post...damn technology 😏
  11. Packerz

    Steering column shell

    I am looking for a steering column cover "clamshell" 1977280Z. Specifically, the lower half panel with all molded mounts intact. Mine has broken mounting "towers" that hold the attaching screws to the upper shell mounts. I have an upper shell with intact mountings. Will consider buying the set if no one has just the lower panel and set is reasonably priced. Please contact me directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. Thank you! Doug
  12. Packerz

    Dome light wiring

    Thank you, again Zed Head. You confirmed my thought that BR really functions as ground wire to/from switch (es)...Black grounds the switch itself and BR sends ground signal to light terminal? Yes I still have to "chisel" door switches out to verify solid ground and probably solve bulb operation during door open-button release. I still have to ask why BR and door switch affects even the manual lens button operation of bulb. Sincerely not to belabor the point, but doesn't the B (constant body ground) terminal make a direct connection with BR terminal and ground side of bulb holder? Even if the BR wire wasn't connected to its terminal... wouldn't the bulb holder's connection with black terminal work for "push button" operation of an installed bulb with constant 12volts at opposite bulb holder/terminal I gotta tell you how gratifying it is for a Club member to respond in a thoughtful and kind manner. It isn't all the time that a fellow Z actually reads the posted question being asked before flaming post response...that is if any (helpful) response to actual question is even given. The difference is noted and appreciated!
  13. Packerz

    Dome light wiring

    I am trying to understand the wiring functions in the overhead/dome light. I have studied the FSM (Figure BE-23) and the wiring to my light to find out why my light does not work by door contact or manual (lens button). I am trying to use my very basic electrical knowledge and use my voltage tester to determine energized and grounded wires. I clearly test the Blue/white stripe wire as constant 12 volt, battery powered. I also get a functioning ground signal from the black wire. The bulb (even tried several) tests as good. However, I can't get any power across the bulb connections...BW (BE-23 code LW) and Black/red stripe. I know that BR is controlled by door switches, however, my connected, or disconnected, bulb terminal or open/closed doors the BR won't allow power to body ground B allowing bulb to light. Isn't the actual function of the BR wire to create/allow a full grounding at the bulb based on door switch button in/out? To test the door switches, does the BR get any energy to voltage test against B? I see a closed circuit/loop for the BR from the light terminal (with RH and LH split) to each door switch and back with no power to BR...so how would I test each switch? Yes, the LH switch also has a Black and white stripe power and Black ground wires but the switch seems to have two separate circuits for dome light and theft protection and no power shared to BR. Please no flames my confusion but kindly help me to understand switch testing and why BR bulb terminal connection won't close loop allowing LW power to B and allowing light to work manually with door closed. Thank you, for your patience; I'm trying🤔
  14. Packerz

    Ebrake switch

    Yippee and way cool😎 Ya know I would have sworn a black wire was ground... not on a Z anyhow😏. Do you possibly have an aftermarket LED bulb part# suggestion/source to match the dimensions of the current (5amp?) dome light bulb. Can an installed bulb be tested by using just the lens push switch if only the Blue w/white stripe (12volt power) and the Black (yeah black=ground this time) are connected to their terminals inside the light housing? or does the Black w/red stripe (from door switches) also have to be connected to its terminal for any bulb to work at all? Last two electrical questions and end of this thread; I swear! You are great, my friend. Thank you.
  15. Packerz

    Ebrake switch

    Again, thank you! Zed Head, could it be that this black wire, soldered to bottom of the switch, is not a ground wire at all... It might actually be the switch connection to the 12 volt power GY wire. This could explain my male spade black wire and my female plug GY making them the same wire when connected and bringing power to the white plunger button sleeve Then the sleeve is in fact grounded by the switch housing which itself is grounded as part of ebrake assembly bolted to body ground. Do you think maybe I've (finally) got this right? I sure hope so! I really appreciate your excellent feedback and patience with my questions!!! Doug
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