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Packerz

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About Packerz

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Western North Carolina
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Live in Western North Carolina. Asheville/Hendersonville area. Frame-up restoration restoration; 85%-90% original with tasteful, non-280Z year specific, OEparts upgrades: appearance and performance. Competition full-rebuilt 3.1 L28 with 5 speed tranny. Extremely attractive “chameleon-ish” paint with normal, very dark racing green...occasional hint of Jaguar light metallic blue tint in certain sunlight conditions and near black in some no-light garage settings. Owner since 1994.

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  1. Hello Patcon.  You have given me valuable assistance before and I certainly appreciate that! I am trying to locate a business(es) to service two restoration projects I have left on my 77 280Z.  Since you live near the NC/SC state line may I ask your help in locating these two services in our (Greenville-Asheville) area. ‘1). Gas tank  service, clean out/restoration and 2) chroming, rechrome my 260Z bumpers.  Thought you might know (or know someone who knows🙂) how to locate these potential service locations,  nearby.  You may contact me directly at dbparker54@yahoo.com or text to 727) 804-8678.   I’m asking you directly because I don’t think there are to many sources via  Starting a new thread....

    thanks for your help in the past and hopefully your input on these two last items.    Doug

  2. For what it’s worth... to anyone replacing their S30 power antenna, and wishes to use the factory wiring all the way back to the rear fender, here is what I’ve found. If you are using the replacement Harada MX-1 or MX-2; they come with a toggle switch with bridged red and green wires at the diagonal top and bottom corner posts and single black and single red leads off the middle posts. Our factory wiring has three leads from the radio harness (to the original antenna toggle switch and running back to the antenna power). The solid blue is connected to the single red wire (fuse box/ignition switch 12v power) black to body ground. The blue/white stripe is connected to the bridged red lead and the blue/red stripe goes to bridged green lead. This makes the new antenna powered up, down and hold position via toggle. Check the orientation of the toggle unit before mounting (dash, console etc.) to verify “up” toggle is toward top of switch. Just flip 180 if it’s inverted. Thanks for all responses!
  3. Thank you for the reply Jarvo2! What I am trying to do is connect (I believe Harada) aftermarket antenna switch and supplied toggle switch. PO eliminated factory antenna switch and toggle and used this newer setup but making all connections through factory antenna control wires. May I post picture of newer toggle switch that best shows the three connection wires that will need to be (re) connected to the three existing factory antenna switch wires...solid blue, blue/white and blue/red. I need to identify functions of each factory wire to correctly ID connection to new switch. I hope this helps anyone reading this post. Again, thank you! Anyone?
  4. OK. Update on Harada antenna to factory antenna wiring. Definitely established power wire a solid blue and is connected to single (non-bridged) red wire! This leaves only the question of the other (2) wires connection. There are two wires(bridged) from the toggle switch red & green and (2) factory antenna wires blue/white and blue/red stripes. Does anyone know if each color has to march specific connecting wire or can red, green and striped leads be be connected in any order ie: can I connect blue/white to either green OR red? Will this effect antenna operation in any way as apparently the bridging of toggle switch leads tells antenna to extend or retract as lever is moved up or down...it doesn’t’t seem like the “up or down” function is controlled by a factory, two color-specific, wiring order. Last question in this post, I swear! Please just share this last answer, hasn’t anyone else used a Harada aftermarket antenna and wired it to factory antenna wires? I am ignoring lead from head unit as it just complicates the whole picture and seems to be redundant and of no real value. Thanks y’all!!! Doug
  5. OK ya got me on that👍 “Calling for angels”. I really hope somebody sees this, reads what I’m trying to do and can provide a direct answer....”the blue goes to ______ The blue/white goes to....The blue/red connects with the _____ toggle lead etc. I just can’t combine the schematic, you very kindly supplied, and the factory wiring diagram so I really would appreciate if anyone has already done this or can solve mystery connections from info/pics supplied. Help please😇. Thanks for the assistance provided to me so far!!! Doug
  6. Head unit is Kenwood KDC-BT330U. “All else fails”??? <- Is this for me? Can you determine if I am at least correct on (3– wire leads) connections from your Harada schematic to ‘77 factory wiring diagram? I believe the antenna lead from the Kenwood must be either pigtailed onto one of the three wires or just disregarded when using Harada unit. Guessing that this wire only have 12v power when head unit is “on”?
  7. Thanks Zup! I apologize that install schematic has also got me confused (Not Difficult w/ Electric! 🤔) May I make a stab at this by me supposing: green bridged wire connects to blue/red-stripe 12v from ign. Switch; The bridged red connecting to blue/white-stripe from fuse box/battery 12v; but I can’t trace solid blue out from factory wiring diagram to determine function if it would connect to single red from toggle switch. IF I have these three color wires from factory wiring connecting to three color leads from toggle switch correct...Great! However, what happens to the “antenna”-labeled wire exiting head unit? Is it just ignored “as the odd guy out” 4th wire to nowhere and left unconnected or is it spliced-in with another of the factory wires? Sorry to be so dense. I hope I have color wires matching correctly....please advise if correct or which combo’s get it correct! Thank you!!!!! Doug
  8. Thanks Mike! The ‘77 wiring diagram shows these 3 (blue & blue-striped) colored factory wires. they are visible from factory wiring harness as (3) leads to be connected with the (3) wire leads from back of toggle switch. Therein is my mystery...which one of the toggle switch leads ( red-pigtailed, green -pigtailed and the single- red wires) matchup/get connected to which of those factory wires. Can anyone identify the correct color wire combination connection? Does anyone recognize mfr. of this antenna by way of six blade wire set up from the back of the toggle switch? Thank you!
  9. I am reconnecting my existing aftermarket (brand?) to an upgraded audio system. All hookups were disconnected over a yr. ago and I have no installation guide to refer back to. I am trying to remember which antenna toggle switch wires connect to factory blue, blue/red stripe and blue/white stripe wires. The toggle switch has six connection spades and three different color wires: red, green & black(antenna already grounded to body, near antenna so just leave black wire disconnected or make another body ground under console?) . **I will attempt attachment photos of toggle switch which is worth many,many words description.**. As simply described as 2-reds and 2-greens each color “jumped” to diagonal&opposite/upper/lower spades and then each color pair pigtailed our to singe red or green connection lead with another single red connection lead (directly opposite black spade/wire) three connecting wires to connect to the three factory connection lead wires ( those 3 colors of blue). Which three color switch wires connect to each color factory wire? Please help me solve mystery (re)connections. Thank you! * forgot to ID single antenna wire from head unit that was never connected because of toggle switch “up, down and hold” desired feature.
  10. I’m nearing completion of my audio system consisting of Head unit, Amp, speakers w/ crossovers I my 77 280Z. I have done a “sound test” just to hear system before putting everything back into console (what fun😏). Cd source sounds great but now I must hook up the radio antenna. I am using (used with former setup) a power telescoping antenna working off manual toggle switch that allowed antenna to stop in position as well as up/down. However, since the whole system was apart/disassembled for over a year, I can’t remember how the old system connected to factory wiring (same antenna) to repeat with new system... 77. factory wiring diagram shows solid blue, blue/white stripe and black ground to power antenna. (No blue/red stripe anywhere in loop...240 Z different?). What is most confusing to me is antenna has power wires 2-reds, 2-Greens and the black ground (that was grounded to metal under hatch deck). What are/why the double sets of red&green wires and which combination would go to solid blue (power from the the ignition switch?) and which to the blue/white stripe (unknown function and/or power source)? The back of the toggle switch has the same 2-red, 2-green, black ground wires. How to connect each end of this antenna-toggle switch circuit to blue & blue/white factory wires🤔. Anyone used this antenna type wiring? Please help me solve mystery...install sheet long gone and can’t remember mfr. thank y’all!
  11. Perhaps last question- did 74 260 use same single threaded body mount as a 77 280? If so, In the same spot? Thanks!
  12. Conedodger, I don’t want to beat this thread into the ground, however, I still have questions about how you bolted (?) the rear floating sides to a 280 body. Did you keep filler rubber 3pcs. & use/keep the 2 outside rubber trim pcs? Did you use anything in between back of bumper and body? How did you bolt bumper into the body...did you drill a hole through the bumper face and run bolt on in to the body...my rubber trim pcs. won’t allow a bolt head/cap under them. On each bumper (about 4” from end) I can feel a small,short kind of plate inside the bumper with two (6mm? sized) holes in them but I have no clue how to use them in any kind of bolt mounting into body....not to mention the fact that these small plates w/ holes are already forward of threaded hole and will only move even further forward if entire bumper moves forward in potential shock compression. Trying to keep my questions and posts shorter but I don’t get the missing link of necessary bolt-ups ,into or away from, the back of bumper and then bolt thread into body (can’t visualize using the 280 “mount hole” for anything w/out some offset insulator-kind of item. This would still puzzle me in any custom fabricated conversion insulator/bracket. What am I not seeing how you have accomplished??🤔
  13. Wow! Great info. Did you do this strut compression and keep the 3 rubber fillers on each bumper? Most importantly, what did you do for side connection (s) to side body?? Were you able to use just the single threaded bolt-to-body mounting? What conversion did you use or make for that 3-4” gap connector??? If I get that item for rear bumper, I’m back in business! Th front bumper will need side connection also but it is much more stable than the rear’s wide gap and long “floating” sides. I am super anxious to hear the most important piece of your “how-to !!! Thank you👍👍. Doug
  14. Maybe these will help. Front bumper: Hard to visualize if Compressing front bumper strut allows lining everything up by pushing entire bumper/filler/side rubber “cap assembly back toward body...where to drill fluid release hole in shock? Even so, there will still need some type of transition pc to fill gap between mounting hole in bumper (hidden behind rubber trim with 6 small molded-in “rivet-Type” screws) and some potential bolt thread hole in front body metal.... hard to figure out how any kind of bolt could be covered by those trim rubber though? Rear: please note last four photos. Shows current “attachment” w/ driver-side shock pushed in....result of someone... never mind🤫. Compressed mounting on that side leads me to believe bumper and filler will line-up Ok in center when passenger side shock is (properly) compressed. Here comes the However, notice the large gap on sides...even with some forward movement of entire bumper while trying to avoid near contact with wheelwell raised lip...still results in a 3-4” gap between backside of bumper and (closeup photo of threaded mounting bolt “hole” in my 280) body. This is the most problematic issue in a finished conversion for me. Any conversion pc. must allow for the offset mounting points existing between 260 bumper and 280 body (in any bumper position, using existing filler or trying flush fit . Is this something any 240/280 conversion product could be easily modified to accomplish? My sincere thanks to this forum, I do appreciate your interest, input...and patience. Doug
  15. cgsheen1: thank you. I have most, if not all the body-to-bumper pieces already. Currently, bumpers are just bolted to the 280 “crash shock” plates with two accessible bolts...an OK arrangement just to hang them. However the sides are just kinda “free floating” because I could not use the 280 body mountings. I never got any 260 side mount brackets (purchase did include front override bar and fairly decent rubber trim appearance and filler pieces). Therefore, I don’t have “donor” 260 braces to try and fabricate some small conversion piece at the body mounting ends of a 260 bracket to my single bolt 280. These possibly could be the easiest thing to have fabricated ... could anyone on this forum do this for me at a fair price? I would have to attempt sourcing good used early 260 brackets F&R... but potentially bumper distances, fillers fit, AND all mountings line up and direct mount to my 280. With my luck, that might seem the easiest but...would not be the best/practical/ reasonable $$ path....🙄. Any input on this? I think you are absolutely correct in your last post re: pushing sides to far forward by simple shock compression. Kills that Thanks Zed, Yes, I could either source used 260 bumper support braces to convert, taking bumpers (brackets)and car to some type of metal fabrication shop & sharing some visualization of goal. Asking them a fixed price for creation of a conversion or just building whole new brackets w/necessary side mountings. Asking them (no idea of how to identify trusted source) if they would create a “one of a kind” 4-pc custom job...for some “reasonable” cost. Perhaps only way to determine cost/ability of ever using existing 260 stuff-or is there some Z club member doing metal fabrications (or local person/place close to WNC area) that someone could refer me to and discuss how-to? I appreciate all the input I have received and truly trying not to discard any offered options. Trying very hard to remain hopeful of some positive $$ resolution before accepting my 260 bumpers only useful for 260 replacements and no conversions value! Only source of buyers=260 owners? Very hard to swallow until all experiences and input asked... My Thanks to all! Doug
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