Mark Maras

I'd do another compression test (wide open throttle, all plugs out) before I opened it up. My thought is if it's got good (enough) compression, it's got to be fuel or spark.

I'd start by cleaning it up, remove anything that's loose, and then go at it with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Once that's done poke around any suspicious areas with an ice pick. That will tell you which areas are thin.

I've always coated both sides with a thin layer of grease. I've cussed every paper gasket I ever treated with grease, but it was always when trying to remove it later. Never any leaks.

It eliminates air restriction to the cylinders. That results in a faster cranking speed. I've never done a C test without removing the plugs but I'm guessing it wouldn't affect the numbers more than a few psi.

Did you pull all the spark plugs first, Turn it over until you had oil pressure, and hold the throttle wide open during the test? The 140 on the fourth time around was probably because the engine was getting oil pressure.

They make new crush washers?

Any good contact adhesive will work.

As long as the front and rear angles are the same or darned close.

A bit off-topic but in the past I've usually attributed an engine that "hunts" to be caused by a lean mixture.

We DEQd an 81 RX7 many times in Portland. They could care less about looking at the engine. The first time took a few carb adjustments and trips through DEQ but the entire crew gave us a cheer when we succeeded. Maybe they were just glad to see us go?

Clockwise and counterclockwise adjustments are made imagining you're viewing the bottom of the carb. Try reversing the adjustment directions.

@jalexquijano Have you checked this?

The only time (in twenty plus years of spirited driving) I ever experienced an erratic misfire at high RPMs was cured with a new set of BP6ESs. My experience with a partially plugged fuel filter resulted in the car refusing to go above 45 mph in any gear but would freely rev to 6000 rpms under no load.

I had a friend sit on each front corner as I tightened the bolts.

It will pull high RPMs under no load. What happens when it's under load? Does it start to miss intermittently or just run out of power and refuse to rev higher? While not ruling out electrical, I'm leaning (snort) towards it being a lack of fuel.

I agree. Use one set of points. The plus side is you won't have to carry a spare set in the glove box.

I vote for polish and clear acrylic paint.

I believe the fender bolts that are now interfering with the hood are supposed to have a shorter head than ordinary bolts.

I'd try a bit of heat on the aluminum first.

If it turned even a little bit, I'd soak it in penetrating oil and then try tightening and loosening it. The back and forth motion will allow more penetrant to seep in.

Are the holes in the spray bar partially blocked with crud? I started poking at mine with a torch tip cleaner and was amazed at how encrusted they had become. There was minimal oil to the cam before, steady streams of oil to the cam after the cleaning. I also soaked the bar in lacquer thinner for 24 hrs to loosen everything up after I saw the build-up in the holes.

@Zup & @S30Driver. GeeZers, please check in. The troops are getting restless.

My 10/70 build had carpets..

I can confirm they're great (and fun) in the snow as long as it doesn't get too deep.

Great pic of the GeeZers.