Carl Beck

Hi Dan: The one in Front has longer tail pipe than the one in back. The 73 Z's had rear bumpers that were moved out from the body. Seems odd that they would use a shorter tail pipe for 73. Can you tell us more about this? thanks, Carl B.

I do not believe that it is, and you have to wonder why a Z with only 8K miles needed a new muffler. My White 72 has 80K miles and the original exhaust system - header pipe through muffler. But as stated - you would have to see it in person. Additionally - the condition of the engine does not say "8K" miles either. A friends 72 engine with 16K original miles still looks show ready. On another thread - I spent several days visiting muffler shops - trying to find the best match to OEM. There are few that are very close. FWIW, Carl

Hi LeonV: To be fair - I did not quote the data as scientific evidence. I clearly labeled it as "relative data" - not ordinal. Road Test data from the auto magazines is all we have that reflects more or less common performance measures - 0-60, 1/4 mile etc. From your comments, I believe you understood my point - that being that an additional 200 lbs - the difference between the UK and NA cars - couldn't account for a 2 second difference 0-60. The Pounds per HP numbers also seem to fall in line with the differences in performance. I have about 10 RLS30 engine plates - but they all range only up to the 40,000 VIN range - they all say 162HP. I did not find a HP Rating in my 74 FSM. So I don't think there is an explanation needed for that. Rather a source or explanation is needed for the 139 HP rating given in the Road Tests. You also have to add the additional weight of the 260Z doors with Side Impact beams, the reinforced sub-frames and the additional heat/sound insulation. I've never weighed a 260Z door, but if I pick up an S30 door I can tell pretty quickly if it is from an early or late 240Z or a 260/280Z. I did not say emissions equipment. I attributed it to "configuring and tuning" our L26's to meet our emissions standards. The combustion chamber design, fixing fuel/air ratio's to meet the emission standards, and ignition timing. No I don't see anything, other than setting the engine up to meet the emissions standards. With 11 more HP - that should offset the additional weight of our 260Z's - - but then other than a loss of HP what else accounts for the significant drop in performance - stock for stock. FWIW, Carl B.

I have a NOS Ansa twin stack - the real thing not a reproduction. $425.00 plus shipping. RealEnth - run on up here to Clearwater, bring cash and you can save the shipping - and inspect the item before you buy. Bring your Z and I might buy you lunch... Drop me an E-mail at beck@becksystems.com and put 240Z or something in the Subject.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: I've always delt directly with Hagerty - never used an Agent. The appraiser is most likely correct - I said no less than $40K as that would pretty much assure the car would be repaired even if it sustained a lot of damage in an accident. Of course that wouldn't come close to replacing it if it were stolen or lost in a storm etc. The higher the insured value - the higher the premium too. I'll touch bases with some of the guys at Hagerty next week and hopefully remind them why the extended coverage to any 240Zs to begin with. Many time the Underwriters fear over-insuring cars during harder economic times - but a $32K top limit is just silly for a Collector Car Insurance Company to begin with.. Carl B.

I think you have more or less answered your own question. It is pretty easy to pick up 23 HP {162-139} if you bump up the compression ratio, set the ignition timing and distributor timing curve to a more performance oriented setting, and use carb's that allow more adjustability for air/fuel ratio's. Especially when the HP was there to begin with - and was "tuned out" or "traded-off" to meet our emissions standards. Years ago - when the Nissan Competition Parts Dept. was in existance for example - you could order "Euro Spec." pistons. They had a 2cc platform on top of the flat top pistons - which in effect reduced combustion chamber volume by 2cc's. So ... Scrap your 74 E88 head {47.8 cc combustion chambers} - and replace it with a 71/72 E88 {44.7cc combustion chamber}or better a 75 N42 head {it comes with the larger valves}. Add the larger intake/exhaust valves from the 75/77 280Z's to the E88. Use the Euro Spec. pistons. That will raise your compression ratio from 8.8 to 9.5. Use a 71/72 distributor and you'll have a good advance curve to start with, or have your 260Z distributor re-worked to get a good advance curve. Add a mild cam and dump the Air Injection and other emissions gear.. and you'll easily pick up 25 to 30 HP. If you can't find a set of the Euro Spec. pistons you can just mill the 71/72 E88 head to reduce combustion chamber volume. Of course you have to have a good valve job, the valves need to be unshrouded and with hardened seats - etc. etc All of this has to be on top of a good long block {good rings, bearings etc}. Have all the parts on hand, the head back from the machine shop and a good set of S.U.s - and a day in the garage you can bolt everything on.. After that you can work on Weight Reduction.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi LeonV: If you look at the Road Tests from the time {relative data at best} - Pounds per HP and 0-60 times - it seems quite possible that the North America L26, tuned to meet our Emissions Standards for 74 - lost 26 HP. On top of that our Fat Bumpers and other "safety" equipment added about 200 lbs to our 260Z vs the UK model. Any way I look at it - 2 seconds 0-60 mph is a pretty great seat of the pants difference. A Snap Shot from some of the Magazine Road Tests of the time: 1970 240Z 150 HP - Curb Weight 2355 lbs - Pounds per HP 15.7 0-60 mph 8.2 sec. 1/4 mile 15.5 sec. at 87mph 1974 260Z {North America} 139 HP - Curb Weight 2665 lbs - Pounds per HP 19.2 0-60 mph 10.3 sec. 1/4 mile 17.9 sec. at 79 mph 1974 260Z {UK} 162 HP - Curb Weight 2425 lbs - Pounds per HP 15 0-60 mph 8.2 As one can see the UK model for example had the performance of our 240Z's.. Adding 200 lbs doesn't add 2 seconds 0-60 - so there had to be a significant HP loss as well. That HP loss was attributable to configuring and tuning our L26 engines to meet our Emissions Standards. Look at the difference between Euro Spec 74 Porsche 911's and US Spec. 911's and you will see pretty much the same story. In the early days of meeting our Emissions standards it cost significant HP here. I do agree that once the technology caught up with Emissions standards - they resulted in far better performing engines.. but that would be years after 1974. Also - I believe that there is a difference between a car being "undesirable", and a car being "less desirable" than an earlier model. I don't believe that the 260Z's are considered undesirable here. I think it is easy to understand why the US 260Z is less desirable than the lighter, faster 240Z's. Nonetheless, clean original early 260Z's are still very desirable. It does however COST MONEY to swap out the bumpers and Carbs, re-curve the distributors etc etc ... So that cost comes off the initial price of the car - so Yes the 260Z's here sell for less to start with.. Nonetheless as you point out they also offer several improvements over the 240Z's.. FWIW, Carl B.

What does "KURO" mean, stand for, represent... :-) I hate to miss something... So is it snowing there yet? Carl B.

The pictured Z would not meet the criteria to be classified as a #2 Condition example. The engine is rough - and it would have to pulled and fully restored - all bright and shiny etc. One would have to see the actual condition of the paint and the undercarriage as well. In todays market - nice as it seems to be - it would take a lot of time and effort in addition to several thousand dollars to bring it up to a condition that would command anything over $20K. Serious Collectors will spend the money for Perfection - but they won't buy a Project and screw around with it. That leaves the subject car to the Enthusiast Market - and right now most Enthusiasts are very conservative with their spending. {I know one offer of $45K has been made for a near perfect 72 Surivor in true #2 Condition - and that hasn't been accepted yet that I know of} A super low mileage survivor will command a premium even today - but it has to be "Show Ready" with documented mileage etc. to bring over $25K today. I know it is sad... the 73 I finished last year - the original owner had a little over $65K in. But he, like you and other original owners restore their Z's because they have had and loved them for over 40 years.. and they figure they are spending the money on themselves. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: WHAT? When did that happen? Do you recall who at the Hagerty told you that? Before the Financial Melt down - I know at least 5 serious Collectors that were buying #1 and #2 Condition 240Z - and with a few pictures E-Mailed to hagerty they were insured above $50K with no problem.{no outside appraisal etc} I worked with Hagerty originally - to get our Original Owner 240Z's insured with Classic Car Policies, with high enough Agreed Values to assure the cars would be repaired rather than totalled in case of a serious accident - most of the 175 Original Owners on our Register carried at least $20K. Your Z right now should be insured for at least, at the very least for $50K. That certainly would not replace it - but at least that would assure it would be repaired if anything did happen to it. $32,500 would not begin to buy a true #1 or #2 Condition 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark - So your Z has about 8,000 original miles - Wow. Can you Post some Pictures of your Engine Compartment for us. Nothing really to consider - The 73 Model Year Datsun 240Z's sold here in North America started production in 8/72 and ended 8/73. The VINS started with HLS30-120001 FWIW, Carl B.

We had the "Oil Embargo" aka Fuel Shortages at the end of 73 and that put a real damper on the US economy - which was already slow. AIR - when I moved here to Florida in 73 the unemployment rate was over 14% and Mortage Rates were around 12%. Add the effects of the ever stricter Emissions Standards that robbed performance and Sports Car sales were at a snails pace. FWIW, Carl B.

I doubt he'll find any - Unless his definition of a "good deal" - is paying a lot up front for a very good car. Which as most of us know is usually the best deal one can get. If his definition of a "good deal" is a Datsun that is low priced [cheap}, looks good, runs good and could be driven daily for a few weeks here - -- he won't find one. When cars like that come up - they are bought within hours if not days of listing. But it never hurts to try.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: The only thing I can think of - is that it must not be a 4spd. from a 72 240Z. Thus the longer extension from the pivot point is moving the shift forks too far and they are hanging up on the gear clustor. j Good to hear that you have solved the issue. Carl B.

The last door seals I purchased last year - were the two last one's in the Country for a 73 240Z. Courtesy had one and a Dealer in California had the other. As I recall they were around $500.00 total, plus shipping. That was for Seals with the new Pinch Welting attached. You are lucky if any for the 260Z's are actually still available. At this point $500.00 for both of them seems reasonable to me.. The last OEM NOS rear window Seal I had installed - split from age within a year. Now it has to be replaced again.. FWIW, Carl B.

There is a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive". China today is quite capable of building the finest products in the world. The only question is - what does the Customer want to buy. You really won't know if the pliers Toolway Industries purchased in China, are actually cheap or just inexpensive - until you have put them to the use you intended. If they hold up well and do the job you need done - they are just inexpensive. If they fail your use - they were cheap. Likewise "cheap" steel from Canada is still "cheap" steel. All depends on what the Customer wishes to buy - and in turn what their Customers are willing to pay. Let us know next year which they turned out to be.. FWIW, Carl B Yes, My Apple Mac Pro, iMac untra-light, iMac Portable, iPad and iPod were all made in China... wonderful products!

Wow... a lot of hard work there - looks Great!! Carl B.

PLASTIC! - - - I've been robbed!!! That is a crushing revelation - but given all the other chrome plated plastic in the car - I should have guessed ! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Ok talking to John Williams in Atlanta - The nut on the main shaft can come lose, if it isn't torqued properly and peened strongly enough. In that case the entire gear cluster can move rearward and it kicks the shifter out of gear. Both said that it was far more common in the 5spd. than the 72/78 4spd. with original transmissions from the factory. Early 72 production Z's had the problem show up - but by later production it seemed that Nissan was peening the nuts with more force - and they rarely come lose. If the tranny has been rebuilt -it is a different matter - - it is as common in both 4&5 speeds if the nut is not penned in place strongly enough. You have to pull the tail housing off - see if the nut is lose. If so, you have to torque it back down, and properly peen it in place. Both said that when that happens they replace the nut with a new one. The clunkiing you hear is most likely the whole gear cluster hitting the shift fork. FWIW Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Bummer... so far I haven't found a good "pointed tip" mast.. seems the parts I have are mostly from Series I cars. I have an "Antenna Repair Kit" from Nissan - the kit consists of the antenna body and nylon drive belt. I was thinking that might work - but it has a round tip on the antenna, unlike anything I've seen on a 240Z. So form, fit and function may be the same - but the Nissan replacement part is consmetically different. I have a couple other places to look, but I don't hold out much hope.. FWIW, Carl B.

Dear Andy Palmer: I am sure that Nissan and you know what you are doing, but personally I would have NO interest in buying a Z Car with a four banger. Too many other cars in the present market with that engine configuration. Personally - I don't know anyone that buys a "Sports/GT" based on fuel consumption, nor emissions here in the US. Nissan seems to have completely forgotten that when the Datsun 240Z was introduced - its competitors in the mid priced Sports Car Market were all powered by 4 cylinder engines. The Z Car's silky smooth standard 6 cylinder engine, with higher levels of torque and horsepower sat the Z apart from its competition. It was also the reason that the Z put most of its competition out of the market here in the US. If it has a 4 cylinder engine it should be called a 240SX here in the US. "Badge Engineering" never works for long here. Many auto companies have proven that in the past. Just as I see it Carl B.

I can't remember the exact details - so I'll call a couple guys that rebuid trannies monthly... However, as I recall - one of the transmissions had a large nut that secured the shaft that 1st & Reverse are on - and that nut can come lose. This was corrected by reverse threading that nut on later transmissions so it tightened with rotation of the shaft. {or viseversa}. I just don't remember if that was a 4 or 5 spd. that had the problem I have had some "clunking" in reverse - usually it was caused by rear brake shoes hanging up - and putting additional strain on old weak U-joints in the half shafts. But in that case someone standing outside the car as I backed up - could hear the clunk at the rear of the car. Let you know if I find any useful info. Carl B.

The metal retainer on the bottom of the OEM knob - is there to help prevent the knob from splitting/cracking, as well as to keep the set nut from hitting the wood. So long term it is very important. Tongue Oil - or some other oil finish will also help keep the wood from splitting/cracking.

Do you know what "parts" you need? The first thing to do - is take your present antenna apart to see if the drive strap is broken [the long nylon rope that attaches to the top end of the antenna}, then check the electric motor to see if it runs, then look at the gears inside. In the mean time - I'll look to see what I have... but wouldn't want to send you stuff that won't fix your problem. As I recall - you have to Ground the body of the antenna if you run it out of the car.. for that matter it needs a good body Ground to run in the car. Carl B.

Interesting - - The Shinny Black one looks just like all of them I've taken off manual transmission equipped 1970 Z's. FWIW, Carl B.