siteunseen

Clear hose is best. You can see it before a mouth full. We use them for transferring fuel into boats. In Alabama it's a "Georgia credit card".

I used Nissan Titan truck exhaust studs and one use lock nuts on the ends of my N42. Altima smaller stuff in the middle. All bought at local Nissan dealership. The ends were already wallered out so going with the bigger studs was a no brainer. The smaller Altima which is the same as OE Datsun was just a much better, newer way than lock washers and free spinning nuts from the factory. My opinion only but after years of checking, they are still nice and tight.

100% agree with you. I've never experienced vapor lock. Your float bowls are low. Don't go by the 23mm, max them out and be sure your overflow hoses are connected to the air box. I set mine higher and never have any problems.

I work for a guy that has 86 1,000 sq. ft. apartments. He raised the the price per month 25% "none are available so I can charge what I want, they can get one somewhere else if they can". The people that didn't renew their leases after the initial 12 month agreement were on a month to month lease. Between 10 and 15 are vacant now. The buck is about to stop at his doorstep. Fortunately I run a paint store he owns so I'm moving a lot of product and getting PAID!

A little past halfway down of the link I posted earlier. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I found some at Nappa too.

Is this common on the 240s? It's my first time seeing what appears to be a heat shield under the fuel pump? Curious mind asking. Thanks for any replies.

Good read if you have time.

They have marine stabilizers that get rid of ethanol or av-gas. If you do get e free fuel you can run the feed hose of the mechanical pump straight out of a gas can between the bumper and radiator. I did that to confirm a nasty tank on one I bought. Drove it around the neighborhood for a few days, very slowly.

I ask my nephew if he was a starter for his baseball team. He didn't know what that meant, said he was a player.

They rarely go bad just filing the contacts to shine again and making sure there's no spider webs in there. I had to bend the arm on mine when I first bought my '77 after reading this great write up with a lot of good photos. Thanks @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

10w30 down here. That high milage valvoline has the best additives from my reading without going with the diesel oil. It's got some extra zddp for worn engines and supposedly keeps the rubber conditioned? Walmart has a high milage brand also that I run in my d21 pickup with 350,000 plus miles. I have great oil pressure in my 240, always. When it drops down a little I check my records and it's always time for a change out. Can't explain that but it never fails to be true.

Do you think dead heading increased fuel therefore eliminating hot evaporation? I'm just curious as this is a common question asked often. I've never had an issue and it's 90F right now down here in the Deep South and getting warmer as I reply.

The newer needle valves from ztherapy are a little tricky to set the gap between the float and lid edge. I learned the hard way that turning the lids upside down to adjust does not work like their older video where they use Grose valves. I'm curious like Captain Obvious if the float chambers are running out of fuel then filling back up after waiting a short while. Have you tried adding choke when it starts to stumble? In my short learning curve the chokes work better than pedal. Clarity: the fuel evaporates faster when it's hot.

That 250 degree hard coolant line between the intakes seems awful hot to me. The valve should close when the temp gets up to operating range. That's for cold weather starting. I bypassed mine so no hot coolant flows through there. My domes are cool to the touch now although I do have a ceramic coated header that took a lot of heat away. You could check the float chambers when it won't run by trying to see if the floats are buoyant in the fuel by sticking a small red straw down the vent bung. If the chambers have fuel in them that straw should be "bouncy". Move up and down with the float.

Have a hose pipe on the ready at least, of course an extinguisher would be #1 but when they're empty you might as well throw it through a window. Gas isn't that bad. I've siphoned a 100 gallons over my life and drank at least one half of a gallon. It may cure covid like drinking Clorox? If you back it up on ramps a 5 gallon bucket or 11 (57 gallons ) would slide in and out easy.

I did my 280 first then a 240 after I got the steps all worked out. No problems and it's been 10 and 6 years respectively. Turn the tank upside down vertically with the fill hole at the lowest point and in a 5 gallon bucket. It all drains out. I ran some welding wire through the vent tubes to make sure they weren't stopped up. The first time was a nerve wracking experience but the next one was much easier. I'd quit my job and do it for a living if I didn't live in Bumble Snot Alabama.

Get a tub from walmart. Tighten the plug when it's close full and pour it up in jerry cans for your lawnmower. Read over this. It really was a big help for me. atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I'd get the restored tank. Cost was over $100 for mine then the headache of doing the job within the time windows. It was a hectic job for sure then it needs to cure for about a month. I used Red-Kote from damon products. The instructions are online if you want to read over them.

Put enough ketchup on it and we'll eat anything.

Restaurant Mazenburg is closed now. Do the Dutch not eat chess playing horses any longer?

Same with me. I bought all the fuel hose from O]Reilly's and did the 180 with two 90 degree brass PEX fittings. Cost about $50.

I wonder if it's possible to flip it over and use the other side? It may be fresh and useable?