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They rarely go bad just filing the contacts to shine again and making sure there's no spider webs in there. I had to bend the arm on mine when I first bought my '77 after reading this great write up with a lot of good photos. Thanks @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

10w30 down here. That high milage valvoline has the best additives from my reading without going with the diesel oil. It's got some extra zddp for worn engines and supposedly keeps the rubber conditioned? Walmart has a high milage brand also that I run in my d21 pickup with 350,000 plus miles. I have great oil pressure in my 240, always. When it drops down a little I check my records and it's always time for a change out. Can't explain that but it never fails to be true.

Do you think dead heading increased fuel therefore eliminating hot evaporation? I'm just curious as this is a common question asked often. I've never had an issue and it's 90F right now down here in the Deep South and getting warmer as I reply.

The newer needle valves from ztherapy are a little tricky to set the gap between the float and lid edge. I learned the hard way that turning the lids upside down to adjust does not work like their older video where they use Grose valves. I'm curious like Captain Obvious if the float chambers are running out of fuel then filling back up after waiting a short while. Have you tried adding choke when it starts to stumble? In my short learning curve the chokes work better than pedal. Clarity: the fuel evaporates faster when it's hot.

That 250 degree hard coolant line between the intakes seems awful hot to me. The valve should close when the temp gets up to operating range. That's for cold weather starting. I bypassed mine so no hot coolant flows through there. My domes are cool to the touch now although I do have a ceramic coated header that took a lot of heat away. You could check the float chambers when it won't run by trying to see if the floats are buoyant in the fuel by sticking a small red straw down the vent bung. If the chambers have fuel in them that straw should be "bouncy". Move up and down with the float.

Have a hose pipe on the ready at least, of course an extinguisher would be #1 but when they're empty you might as well throw it through a window. Gas isn't that bad. I've siphoned a 100 gallons over my life and drank at least one half of a gallon. It may cure covid like drinking Clorox? If you back it up on ramps a 5 gallon bucket or 11 (57 gallons ) would slide in and out easy.

I did my 280 first then a 240 after I got the steps all worked out. No problems and it's been 10 and 6 years respectively. Turn the tank upside down vertically with the fill hole at the lowest point and in a 5 gallon bucket. It all drains out. I ran some welding wire through the vent tubes to make sure they weren't stopped up. The first time was a nerve wracking experience but the next one was much easier. I'd quit my job and do it for a living if I didn't live in Bumble Snot Alabama.

Get a tub from walmart. Tighten the plug when it's close full and pour it up in jerry cans for your lawnmower. Read over this. It really was a big help for me. atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I'd get the restored tank. Cost was over $100 for mine then the headache of doing the job within the time windows. It was a hectic job for sure then it needs to cure for about a month. I used Red-Kote from damon products. The instructions are online if you want to read over them.

Put enough ketchup on it and we'll eat anything.

Restaurant Mazenburg is closed now. Do the Dutch not eat chess playing horses any longer?

Same with me. I bought all the fuel hose from O]Reilly's and did the 180 with two 90 degree brass PEX fittings. Cost about $50.

I wonder if it's possible to flip it over and use the other side? It may be fresh and useable?

That looks like you could have it resurfaced? My machinest measured the depth around the friction disc's screw holes and said there was enough for a light cut. Hopefully your's is too. Well maybe you could just get some shorter screws. Looks pretty shallow on some???

Check to make sure the motor mounts seat down correctly. There's some that don't let the peg line up and drop down into the hole. I used a rope and a wooden handle to fit up the gear shift hole to help pull the transmission up from inside the car. When I got it up where I wanted it I tied the handle down onto the tunnel inside the cabin to hold it in place. This picture may help...

She paints iconic cars with their people. James Dean, Janis Joplin, Paul Leonard Newman etc.

That's Edgar Winter.

Yes sir it is. The ZXs weighed a good bit more with all the added creature comforts for the female market they hadn't broken into yet, or so I've read.

Mine stays at 173F idiling in it's garage. Good flow at the radiator hole on top when I rev it up. No wind flow other than the stock fan with a full shroud off a ZX pulling air through the radiator. Water boils at 225F way up here in North Alabama where I live and I run 75>25 coolant and distilled water I collect from a dehumidifier running downstairs where the Zs are. 195F doesn't seem that high to me but I've always heard 200 to 225F is not good. Maybe do an IR temp check at the bottom radiator hose where it connects to the radiator and then get a reading at the thermostat housing to what kind of job the radiator's doing. Do the same where the in and out are on the block. That way you'd know if it's the radiator or the block I would think.

I took my 280 to the local grocery store where I found a Porterhouse for $10.99lb and that's cheap around here. 240 gets it's turn Sunday morning to de glaze the brake pads.

My Dad used this stuff a couple of times so I guess it worked for him anyway in old El Caminos? Says not to use in aluminum radiators though. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80030-Heavy-Radiator-Cleaner/dp/B000HBGHPY?th=1

Is it grounded good, nice and shiny on the bolt that holds the bellhousing to the block?

New info. You may have some kind of air in the system if it started with the new rad? I'd let it run, idling, until you see flow under the cap. Rev it up pretty high and let it burp. Then top it off. Goodluck!