siteunseen

Your top picture. Cup against the motor. It deflects the oil backwards. Thank's @motorman7 for the picture.

They should've used your's for that toolbox magnet Mr Arnett!

The speedometer hole is the same as the fill plug so it shouldn't leak out. Maybe a drop or two. When you get the seal and o-ring done leave some clean paper under there overnight to make sure it's stopped leaking. Seems like I had to use a deep well 10mm socket to get the seal all the way down.

I'm sorry! The "ignore thread" is what you're talking about. Duh on my dumb arse. If I hover on your profile pic I get the IGNORE option. Can't remember how it was, I have a short list of ignored users and they've all disappeared from the site thank god.

You Sir are a genius! AND a funny one too! I see signatures (dead people).

I'm a little slow with this, I thought it was a smartphone thing but I'm using my laptop this morning and my signature photos are gone from it too. It looks like everyone else's are gone too. Did I miss the discussion?

Get you some bifocals.

@Mike Pretty neat trick you did for us there Mike. I can tap the thumbnail in the response and see it right off. Thank you! I like it.

@corbenB I used the tom monroe's book when I rebuilt mine. He uses a 2x4 and a pry bar under the bolt off the front cover threaded into the center hole on the center and rear caps. It worked pretty easy for, dont recall any difficulties. I've taken some pics of the text. Hopefully I will get them in order. Good luck. Actual picture in the next post...

Two women, one on each side. Those cars are light as feather with all that's missing.

When I replaced the alternator on my 240 it popped all my fuses as soon as I tried starting the car. Got on this wonderfully packed with knowledgeable members and found out it was back charging, whatever that is. Took it back to Advance and they gave me another reman, on a whim I asked them to test it before I left their store. It was bad too, also the last one they had. They sent a guy across the street to Autozone and got one from them, tested it and it was fine. Still fine. My lesson learned was to have them test anything re-manufactured before I leave.

google.com but end your search phrase with classiczcars.com. Click on images for pictures. Good luck.

From that thread you posted in in 2018. Seems like you should use the FSM?

How are you guys running your wires through your amp from your PC/laptop? I finally bought a 12' HDMI cord from my flat screen to my laptop and it really blasts out now. I was running a RCA spliced into a headphone plug. That works okay but the HDMI is a big help. Goodnight to you all but not my neighbors.

I listened to "My name is mud" a few hours ago! That's about killing somebody, "Where you goin' City Boy?" Never really paid attention to the lyrics.

Slow down. You need to read up a lot more. You can remove a rocker with a big screwdriver leaving the valve and spring in place. Pry the spring retainer down with the screwdriver against the cam. Move the rocker off the lash pad, remove the mouse trap spring and the rocker is free. But like Zed Head says you can see the rocker pad by getting the lobe base just off the pad.

I got 1 and 2 lobes like bunny ears then measured the valve lash on 1 and 2. When they were equal measurements that was TDC for me.

Shade "woody shrub" way is push the handle of a big screwdriver down between the chain. It should be hard to push down all the way if the tensioner is right. Another way is buy a cheap bore scope that works with your smartphone and have a look.

Build a tree house up in there and you'll have a vacation rental, Airbnb maybe? "SLEEP IN THE TREES WITH Zs"

Measurements, a picture of the wheels would help in finding what you're after.

I like the door trim turn up at the rear tire. That's what got that alligator.