Patcon

It's surprising the tires are that porous! Also that is a lot of wheels on those pallets!

I have no idea. Maybe Alan Does...

If anyone has it, it will be 240zrubber.com

I have found that subframe metal is pretty stout. I believe I have pictures of that area in my build thread. I had to take the rear panel out and pull that exact area. A good frame machine is really the tight tool for that!

Have you ever towed or transported the car with a car cover on it?

So you figured out how to adjust it?

The struts on a 280z have a larger OD tube iirc

1991 is a long time ago... Family matters...

Good update Jim. Yes the new pumps can be that bad. I really think it's the valves in the new pumps. Sometimes they just don't seal or they stick open. It shuts off soon after that...

I believe your cam lobes are correct for TDC

Understood, I will trim it down

930's especially

@EuroDat Do I need to make the shim stock ring narrower? My concern would be inhibiting oil flow to the needle bearing.

Perfect Chas! Yes the scribbles are very helpful 🙂

So I ordered some brass shim stock from amazon (0.001,2,3,5 & 0.010") We used the 0.010" sheet. The really thin stuff is like tin foil thin. Traced the outside of the needle bearing for OD and used a socket that was about the right ID Various methods to cut the ID. Little die grinder, a dremel tool, etc. I eventually got a hole that worked Then I cut the OD with scissors. All torqued back down and just inside the low spec number. Waiting on a new oil gutter and a new front case seal to check that and then hopefully we will be all good

I don't believe you will be able to touch it up if it's single stage paint. I agree you should go to a reputable body shop for advise. If it's BC / CC then a good painter can match it and melt in the clear coat but it's difficult to do it well. I am afraid the detailer may have really done you a major disservice!!

@EuroDat Thanks for that reply. The manual shows a spec on page MT-11 in the 280zx manual for 3rd gear. (0.13 - 0.37 mm) Edit: Although we only have about 0.002" of clearance and it doesn't seem like it would matter because all of those pieces appear to rotate as a unit...

The large bearing at the front input shaft that has the snap ring on it. In post #102 it has space on both sides of it. It has some on the rear side but not enough. There is more on the front side between the bearing and the snap ring. Do we need to pull that bearing forward to move the gap to between the gear and the bearing or will the helical cut gears do it on their own?

You will see some leakage from the oil galley but it should be limited

Unless I am missing something, I would expect the vacuum to go down when touching the brakes. That's where the boost effect comes from... What am I missing?

18 years is a long time to sit in the grass...

Thanks Chas! That's perfect. Do we need to shift this bearing forward?

Ernest, Steve makes the parts that are out of stock when you order them. He is a one man show

I don't totally understand the technique for checking the front bearing shim. Can you clarify that for me? Also how do you adjust the rear clearance. You torque the nut to spec but then I don't have enough clearance. Do you then back it off? Are the other locations the proper places to check? Do we need to move the large bearing forward to get the clearance on the backside?

So can somebody confirm that I am checking these in the correct spots? 1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear We don't have enough clearance on this side of the gear but there is extra on the front side between the bearing and clip Reverse 5th gear We do not have enough clearance at this location. We only have 0.0025" versus min .0122"