Patcon

I know the BMW's I have worked on have valve tap when they have sat for months. It goes away with a little light driving

Is it possible the water jackets are contaminated now and that is throwing the test?

That was my thought too. A crack somewhere else, other than the head gasket surface. Could be head or block...

Also the car you like in the video at the 2 minute mark has custom fit coil overs. Which is why they can run this really wide rim with 0 offset. It will rub the stock strut at that width. Most people run 7 in wheels on a factory suspension. I have run 245s on wheels smaller than 7 inches so there are lots of variables.

I'm hoping one day you'll paint that air dam...

And those are really wide wheels to get under stock fenders if you don't have coilovers. If you are gonna run a stretched tire look they might work but I doubt it otherwise

Steve, I have a pin puller I could ship you if you thought it would help. Acme thread, bearing, etc. Also which Induction heater are you looking at exactly? I was shopping for this just last week...

Don't know that I will be able to go to that one. Not sure Canada will let me in... or is that California?

Where is 2023 going to be??

I also believe it was to prevent iceing in the carbs

If it is in neutral and the clutch isn't depressed then I believe the front portion of the input shaft is spinning

The floors and that rail are structural to the car. They are not merely cosmetic...

You could do it up on ramps or blocks. Just be sure the car can't roll off on you!

It's a shame, that was technically hard to do unless the hood is fiberglass...

I have actually had pretty good results buffing glass. Deep scratches don't come out but it does tend to remove light scratching and makes scratches less evident. Buffing compound and polishing compound are just high grit liquid sandpaper. I'm sure the grits are every bit as hard as glass.

I would dig the remainder of that bolt out of the bumper and either epoxy a new bolt in or use a urethane adhesive caulk

I think you're doing fine. I agree most of that bracing is unnecessary but if it helps you sleep at night...

The rubber on the one on the left also appears to really brittle. The right one might be that way too but the left has lost a lot of the rubber rim

Any rubbing or scrubbing in that size tire? Are your wheels 16x7; 0 offset?

Yes, it is good progress. The earlier mess added about 40 hrs of work but the car was still pretty straight. A little more work on the chassis and some reassembly can start. 🙂

I was thinking not both set high but one set high to the other. Making the front one run rich

If the front carb float bowl level was higher than the rear, wouldn't it run faster due to extra fuel?

Yes, mask was good but prefilters are shot now. I really should have had the Tyvek suit on to protect from skin absorption but I wasn't expecting the intake fan to dead head like that

Today A bright gallon Here is the yellow basecoat I think that was 3 coats of base. There were some areas that had a little gray show through and they were super hard to get covered with the yellow. It's just so transparent! 3 coats of clear. Overall, not too bad but one of my cans of clear had a little rust on it and it ended up in the mixing cup. the paint screens didn't get it all. So there are a few brown specs in the clear. I will have to cut them out. Hopefully I won't have to reclear. It's progress though. My booth didn't totally work the way I wanted. My intake fan filter ended up clogging with exhaust paint overspray coming back in another door of the shop. At the end the booth was pretty foggy! Don't light a match!! I probably should have worn my Tyveck suit but it was already hot in the booth... Colour!!!!

So yesterday Shot some white basecoat There was still a little trash in the paint. No idea where it's coming from. So I worked those areas with a little 600 grit and then degreased again and tacked the car