Patcon

You lose leverage with the larger master cylinder. Maybe try a more aggressive pad to make the pedal effort lower?

Where is the link for the fuel injection bible?

Thats a good idea!

The $15, is to pay the guy to wander out into the warehouse, find it and then drop it in an envelope. I do agree it seems excessive but it might not be...

I looked through my O-ring assortments. I didn't find one that looked like a good candidate yet. I'm gonna keep looking locally

I thought that's what you probably meant but wanted to be sure. Sometimes things get lost in translation

I try to tape off all those decals before I bead blast them and paint them. That would be great if you can use these pictures later!

That is for a 280ZX. The heater parts look a little different. I wonder if it's possible to rebuild the older style valve with the newer parts?

What is exactly is "washing powder "?

They're using that number but I don't think it's the same part https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601000

Cool! Have to try that!

I'm not really sure what to use. It would be nice to come up with a recipe for a longer term solution

We have one shop locally that would probably do it. I thought I might take a shot at it myself. If not I'll have them do it. So I have a spare for me or someone else

I was working on the heater box some today. Tested the heater core that came in Lily, it's cracked! 😞 They are evidently, not readily available. "Brassworks" will custom make you one for $425! So I dug around in the shop and found another one. It tested good. They both appear to be factory units.

Also all the rubber parts I softened with wintergreen oil have since re-solidified, which is disappointing!!

Worked on the dizzy some more I used some Ospho on the spring steel plates in the advance mechanism. It took the "blueing" off them. I might get the rest done tomorrow. We'll see. Hopefully it still works!

So I am messing around with heater boxes right now and I was pressure testing two heater valves I had. I cobbled together some hoses to attach my coolant tester to. One valve did ok, although it leaks slightly around the push rod when it's being actuated. The other leaks badly as the junction of the brass body to the steel bracketry. So in the best Captain Obvious manner, I decided to take it apart! Folded the ears back and removed the bracketry The internals just pull out after that There is a square O ring seal between the hard plastic end and an inner washer. I think if it were replaced the valve would seal up. I've started looking for suitable O rings without having to buy a 100qty. Bead blasted the valve body just for fun

I think its heat welded. It may make it difficult to maintain a crisp edge when removing the chrome trim. It is also easy to make the chrome peel

Only because you haven't assembled your at home hardening line...yet 😉

Maybe try without the tape first. Otherwise you wont know if the seal and peel actually worked

I believe the chrome strip molded to the vinyl on the panel. I don't believe it will come loose with the rivets Maybe Cantech can verify.

I have bought Milton HiFlo hose air chucks for years. I've been really disappointed in them in recent years. Them seem to start leaking pretty quickly as of late. What is everybody else using? Anyone else's experience?

@Namerow What is the best way to use those templates? I would print them but that seems like it would use a lot of ink. Is there a better way to do it?