Patcon

Looks good! When you dress the welds down it will look perfect...

Are you talking about rod interference at the block or something else?

Thanks Jim I may separate plating batches into groups that need baking and groups that don't. I knew split washers and Belleville washers would crack. I was more worried about suspension bolts...I hadn't thought about clamps

I wonder if our application is really that susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement? It looks like 4 hrs @ 375dF for post plating hydrogen removal

Come on! Bring Wendy and spend the night. We will have the guest house ready for you

That sounds like a good start.. Good to see you making progress again!

Doesn't have a VIN number listed. Could be a good start...

Ok I messed with this some more. I went through and redid the battery cables and the chassis ground at the voltage regulator. Some one had a red cable for the ground with some black electrical tape and a black cable for positive with some red electrical tape. So we remade all of those and cleaned all the connections at the starter. New connectors at the battery. Had the cover off the headlight relay and tried the headlights. No joy...They don't appear to burn at all. The high low switch seems to work because the relay moves and we can make it toggle with the high beam controls at steering wheel. We have other electrical issues too : Not charging No brake lights No wipers No reverse lights Half a dozen loose connections

The plating tank, where the zinc coating is applied, is the only tank that uses current. The chromate tanks are just a dipping solution but I believe they have an acid base to make the process work...

@motorman7 I went back 24 hrs. later and 7 days later and both times I can still scratch the yellow chromate off with my finger nail. Rich, How fragile is you completed finish? I am thinking I need to yellow chromate immediately after blue. Do you have any issues with contaminating your yellow chromate with the blue chromate?

I love JDM tail lights. They should have all been that way!

Love it! You can never have too many parts! Well maybe, but I'm not there yet...

If you put some cheap harbor freight casters on them, it makes it easy to move them around if you need to or to clean around them

Like the blue metallic and the flame orange...

Me too!

Pictures would help: Along the rockers, under the battery, the frame in the front wheel wells, down low behind the doors. Start with that...

I have sort of stayed out of this, but anyway. I don't think the question is "silly". If I owned #26 I would do all I could before I gave up and watched her burn on the side of the road (I am not trying to be insulting, I just don't like the idea of not trying), but that is sort of my personality. I have had fires in cars that were easily fought with a small fire extinguisher. I think a lot depends on what caused the fire,and what is feeding the fire. Is there an electric fuel pump, is it still running? Like SteveJ I have seen electrical fires that would be easy to deal with, versus a race car with a fuel or oil fire that pumps a lot of combustibles. Just my opinion but if the welding gloves help and they're not in the way take'em, if not, don't. We routinely use them in our fireplace and pick up glowing pieces of wood to adjust the fire. Easy on , easy off, still faster than waiting on first responders...

That looks good!

https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bpo/5690873085.html

Good catch...

you can buy them at lowes or home depot...or order online

If it was purpose built for a turbo the compression may be too low for a good NA setup. That would be there first thing to check. Also I would pull the head and check the crowns of the pistons and the condition of the head. If it was under fueled and had a lot of detonation, the engine may need a total rebuild...

A good pair of welders gloves would work for that. Opening the hood might make the fire worse but I don't know how you would extinguish it without being able to target the source...

Or we could see if @nix240z would fabricate some?

You have been moving the harness around. This is not a ground issue or lack of ground somewhere. If you have a small nick in a wire somewhere the movement of unplugging and replugging can give the short better contact causing the short to be faster and more pronounced. Actually the more significant short should be easier to find...