Patcon

I have seen cars with shims and without and I have seen cars with a shim on only one side. If you have shims take note on where they are... Extra hands would definitely make it easier. I would not take the hinges off the car if I didn't have to. That is the adjustment point. Take the hatch off the hinges...

They really don't have any real value, not worth shipping. Whoever wanted it would have to be local...

Can you jumper the pump to use it to prime the lines?

Has the tank passed fuel since it was refurbished? Was the tank sealed inside?

What he said ^^^^

16 months!!! That is flying. I am 5 years in and still don't have it on it's wheels...

You've come a long way. How long have you been working on that one?

Have you cleaned the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel injection system? Does it have fresh fuel in it?

Look forward to it

Excellent, keep the info coming

Thanks One of the problems with the 510 for me is knowing where the ground all are. I know where they are on a Z but the 510 is a little different

$380,000 for the 500W and $280,000 for the 300W Not cheap though!!!

I probably have but with three spares laying around already. I hate to bring home more, even on a good deal... I understand. Maybe someone in your local club would be interested?

Anyone in the Georgia area interested? @SteveJ http://macon.craigslist.org/cto/5770870606.html

The amount you thread them down is directly relative to the fuel level in the float bowls. Like Mark said if the float levels are low then the mixture nuts will need to be threaded down more or the float levels reset. I would screw them down 1/2 turn at a time and see if you can get it to act right. If you can, run it for a while and pull the plugs to check the mixture

If you're running SU's try shooting something (starting fluid??? guys??) around the throttle shafts to see if they're leaking badly. If they leak badly, tuning can be difficult. If pulling the choke helps your set up is too lean...

If the booster is bad, make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking. That is the usual cause of booster failure

The stock alternator will work fine unless there is some good reason to need more current. The internally regulated alternator is a little easier to source, especially if traveling

It is my understanding, none of the cars left the factory with the rubber bumper strips on the sides. That was generally added later or by the dealer before the sale

MIG'ing that? You did a great job! A good machine really helps. I don't have the correct technic to make welds like that yet. I'm getting there, but slowly

The picture of the mount with your hand in it, did you weld that up? The welding on that looks really sharp!

Can you set the humidity level on your dehumidifier? I have mine set at 50% and once it dries it out it doesn't run too much. If you can't set it; then it running all the time might be too much for it or the power bill

60% humidity seems a little high. I have problems (metal rusting and mold growth) in the shop when I set it above 50%

You could always replace the tank. They are cheap and it does serve a purpose

Doesn't look bad considering experience and lack of gas half way around. A little grinding and it will be fine. It doesn't look warped which is the bigger challenge