Patcon

You know you are running right at the edge when you have 2 and 3 tires off the ground...

@sdyck If you remove the ac system, I may be interested in it although shipping might be kind of steep...

I agree the low vin is really appealing but the 50k is really too high. The car is obviously not "all original" and I would be concerned it has had a color change. If it is not the original color then a need to completely re-spray drops the value a lot. I would think $15,000 to $20,000 wouldn't be out of reason for an extremely low number car $30k at the outside. 50k....No

I looked a little bit. Everything I saw was NLA. I believe Fastwoman requested one of these kits years ago at the Nissan parts counter and they couldn't get them and they had never seen one

Sweaty If you're referring to the little pod on the left side of the console that is usually the AC controls. Dealer add on...

Look for a thread by careless. He has done a very thorough restoration and covered most of this in his thread. There is not a comprehensive list anywhere that I know of...

Are you sure your timing is not 180d out?

Les Collins motor...sounds fabulous

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-/162068983109?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276 Number 64 on Ebay. $50k starting bid plus a reserve. It's not even perfect. After market fuel pump. Interior miss matched, shock tower vinyl looks to have flaws. will be interesting to watch. If it brings that the world of Z's has truly changed...

I understand, it's all perspective. I looked up Orlando avg temps their lowest is 49 in January. Their lowest tend to be in the 60's I would think carb heaters would be unneeded in those temps...balmy compared to PA

You can always remove the horn pad and activate the horn mechanism by hand. Use a glove if you are worried about current but it shouldn't hurt since it's 12 volt. It may be the broken horn pad is causing the issue...

@ksechler Check the p-sheets for the products you're using. They will give you finish grits for each individual product. I very rarely finish above 400. I tend to agree with Sweaty, 600 starts to get really slick...

I like the pinstriping. It looks really sharp

That's a good looking car. I love the color. That's a reasonable price for a car in that condition.

tunesnxs I assume you're in Orlando Florida, if that is the case I see no need for any carburetor heating at all, unless someone can point out something I'm missing...

To get your side lines straight. Draw a straight line down the car with a level or some other straight edge using a pencil. Then run a piece of masking tape along the line either above of below. Block sand the panels up to the tape with out destroying the tape. When it's good, move the tape to the other side of the line and block sand again. when you're done the line will be nice and straight...

Chas is right Small pieces of plywood are relatively weak. Use some solid blocks. You can even use some blocks behind the bearing and screw them together so they won't move around...

I understand. It is always more fun to do a car if you don't feel like you're wasting money, just don't get your hopes up, but with these cars appreciating the way they are you should be able to more than break even if you do a good job...if you don't, just enjoy the ride...

If you decide to go 5 speed, it is easy enough to reverse if someone wants true originality...I wouldn't run anything but a 5 spd in todays traffic if it's up to me...

$300 is doable considering the last time I saw an early MC it was mid $200's or higher...

RIP...

Hagerty says this #2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent." $33,400 #3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle. $16,000 #4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle. $7,200 I think these numbers are optimistic. Grannyknot just sold an early car that was very nicely done and it was in the $20's It is hard to make money restoring cars. They make it look easy on TV but it's really not. We mess with these cars because we love them, not because there's money in it... Realistically you will have $20k in a good restoration where you do it all yourself; $30k if you have to pay for paint and interior work....

They may have assembled it a 180 degrees out...

I agree you shouldn't have to get to know everyone to ask a question. Many of us have been here for years and we know the "regulars". We all try to help the new people but you shouldn't assume he was being insulting with his recommendations. If you respond in a way that comes across as insulting to a long time member the help tends to dry up. Just trying to point you in the right direction; not be an @$$ . As for your car... Rust is the enemy! I would buy about any reasonably complete car for $1500 if it's not eaten up with rust. Reasonably complete to me is some seats, a dash, drivetrain. I can source the rest. You need to look at the common rust areas: dog legs, quarters, wheel arches, floor boards, under the battery and front frame rails. Be careful of the car in primer. I would check those problem areas with a fridge magnet, not too strong. Looking for body filler, the magnet won't stick. Body filler is not rust repair! It is only rust postpone... Pictures would probably help with getting opinions

I agree... Another method is to wet the panel down with wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner. The sheen it gives the panel helps find the flaws the way the shiny paint does...