Patcon

Thanks Blue I read through that. I don't know if I can acquire Nitric locally. It has become fairly highly regulated in the last few years due to some of it's alternative uses...

I suspect both chromate dips are Nitric base, that's why I want to check the Ph of the tanks

As an aside I plated some hardware yesterday. The blue didn't brighten it the way it should but aside from that I baked this batch because it goes on the skid steer I'm rebuilding. The baking seems to darken them up even more and they seem to have a brown tone too...

That's an interesting solution

I have some clips, probably a few extras...need to re-plate them though

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a14/34-1221 Is this it?

I did use all the blue chromate when I mixed it up. I hate it that Caswell doesn't send as much blue as the yellow. When I used the blue before the pieces brightened up almost immediately, After adding water, even after 2 minutes they don't brighten up like that...that's why I wanted to check Ph levels... I ordered a Ph meter from amazon for $20...

that's funny!

where did you get fender seals?

@Namerow Have you done any more plating lately? Also I have a favor to ask if you can come up with a way to do it. Can you test the Ph in each one of your tanks? I added some water to my blue chromate tank because it looked low and now it seems to do very little to plated hardware. I am wondering if I drove the Ph too high. Since yours tanks are reasonably fresh I was hoping to use those as a target for the Ph of each of my tanks. They make digital Ph meters or if you have some test strips they would work too...

Which bolts? The air filter housing to the base or the ones that bolt into the base and accept the ones from the cover?

I know there is very limited space there. I dealt with that area a couple of years ago... Site, I use denatured alcohol on my fingers when working with silicone. It works great too...

Yup ^^^ what he said. Switched power so it doesn't run when the car is off

I wouldn't use plumbers putty! I would use a sealant of some kind. If it's in a caulk tube you can put a short piece of fuel line on the end of the caulk tube so you can get the material in place.

I didn't realize she didn't have the factory housing. I must have missed that somewhere. The auction claims it was running when pulled, but you're right who knows

One on Ebay with the expansion valve $100 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-75-76-77-78-Datsun-260z-280z-AC-EVAPORATOR-CORE-with-EXPANSION-VALVE-/322233826030?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Hoorah!!!

He was 83...

Diesels do not use manifold vacuum. My F250 uses the power steering fluid and a hydraulic booster for that reason...

Are you making these or do you just have this one set?

I am suspect the changes in vacuum caused by braking makes the tuning and emissions more difficult, but just guessing

I wouldn't think 2+2's will ever reach any where near the values of the coupes. The 2+2's are rarer because they didn't sell as well...

That's a good bit for basically 2 project cars but if I were closer I would give them a look. He does have 3 titles though...

Were you going to add the chrome strips later? I thought they were mounted before assembling the light. That's a good repair technique by the way

The hatch itself doesn't look good at second glance, bubbles all down the passenger side along the glass. Front clip...picture #8 is a look inside the front passenger wheel well. That is a hole on the entire outer side of the front frame rail, not so good... If I had to guess the car was stored outside and in the grass or field somewhere. When I see cars like this that is usually how it happened