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grannyknot

Cleaning the filter on the carbon canister

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Do you suspect it needs it or is this excessive spring cleaning?

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This tucks in under that bar running across from left to right. MSA sells it. It's the only "canister" filter I've ever replaced on my 77. I'm not sure that the charcoal one can be cleaned. Good question though.

Carbon Canister Filter, 70-89 Z/ZX 
Code: 18-9061
Price:$13.98

Edited by rcb280z

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

Do you suspect it needs it or is this excessive spring cleaning?

41 yrs, it deserves to be cleaned. But yes, once I get started...

41 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

This tucks in under that bar running across from left to right. MSA sells it. It's the only "canister" filter I've ever replaced on my 77. I'm not sure that the charcoal one can be cleaned. Good question though.

Carbon Canister Filter, 70-89 Z/ZX 
Code: 18-9061
Price:$13.98

So that yellow pre-filter is missing from my canister, I wonder how long it has been gone.  I might try to drip some ABS solvent in that seam around the outside to see if that cap loosens a bit.

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Mice used your old filter to build a nest a very long time ago.

AC Delco claims to have a replacement available on Rockauto for $1.48. Look for ACDELCO part number A478C.

I've heard that Rockauto is no fun in Canada though. Shipping costs are high?

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And forgot... I think dripping ABS solvent down into that crevice is a really risky move. I think that if it wasn't securely glued before you do that, it most certainly will be afterwards!   LOL

  • Haha 1

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You need to test it first.  Make sure you get your eyes to bug out like the picture.  There's an illustration of the filter change also.  This is from 1976.

image.png

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10 hours ago, grannyknot said:

But yes, once I get started...

I understand...LOL

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I read this on an aquarium maintenance site for cleaning carbon filter:

 

1. Run warm water through the charcoal to rinse out impurities if using loose charcoal. If using charcoal cartridges, allow warm tap water to run through the cartridge for several minutes.

2. Hold the rinsed charcoal up near your ear. If you hear a sort of subtle crackling or popping noise emanating from the charcoal, place it back into the filter. If you hear nothing, the charcoal is no longer activated and should be replaced with fresh carbon.

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So maybe try back flowing warm water by pumping it into the outlet on the top with valve held open by vacuum.

If it has inhaled oil over the years, some soapy water may help remove the coating on the charcoal.

Edited by 240260280

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6 hours ago, 240260280 said:

So maybe try back flowing warm water by pumping it into the outlet on the top with valve held open by vacuum.

If it has inhaled oil over the years, some soapy water may help remove the coating on the charcoal.

I know, how about you do that first and let me know how it goes🤣  I guess there really is no danger in it, nothing in there that will get harmed by water, I might try that. I got the Shopvac on it today and it certainly looks cleaner.

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Queen wrote a song about this.

Screenshot 2018-06-11 22.30.46.png

 

I'm in love with my car?

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I'm in love with my car?

Nailed it.

"Told my girl I have to forget her
Rather buy me a new carburettor.
"

:love:

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Oh yeah... And the serious part. Activated charcoal is funky stuff and I'm not sure how it would take to being completely doused with water. What makes it so cool is the amazingly gigantic amount of surface area it has for it's size, and I'm not sure how well it would dry out.

I would shop-vac as much of the crud as you can off the bottom, put a new filter on it, and use it.

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Reading this thread and last few posts I just realized where the faint smell of gasoline is coming from in my engine bay.  If I'm leaning over the fuel filter I can smell it.  I've spent a lot of time checking all of the clamps and hose to rail, and hose to filter, fittings.  But now I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister.

The thought popped in to my head as I was about to say what the signs of clogged activated charcoal would be.  It does get full eventually.

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10 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister.

It does get full eventually.

If connected and working properly, the system is supposed to store the vapors in the can with the engine off, and then pull them out of the can and burn them when the engine is running. In theory, the carbon canister is supposed to be a temporary holding vessel and you are supposed to empty it ("purge") when you run the engine.

However, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the emptying process is never 100% complete and it could eventually saturate over the years. I haven't looked into it, but that wouldn't surprise me. Is that what happens?

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When the control valve opens under engine vacuum, the purge line then opens and again engine vacuum is used: it draws engine compartment air through the carbon. This air then draws the trapped gas on the carbon surface into the intake to be burned. The problem is that the engine compartment air is filled with oil vapour, dust, and occasionally insects. All of this will be pulled through the charcoal and eventually coat it.

 

The carbon is a much better container than the 240z way: store it in the block.  FYI New Honda Direct Injection Turbo CRVs now store gas in the block: :bunny:http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/crv-oil-contamination/

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On 6/12/2018 at 10:56 PM, 240260280 said:

Note: At least one of the three rubber hoses to the CC has a small plastic orifice in it.

 

 

That restrictor is on the fuel tank line about 2" in from the canister.

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I know this is an old thread, but I just came across it last night and had some thoughts on it....

Has anyone opened the carbon canister and refurbished it?

Meaning; clean the diaphragm/spring assembly, open the carbon cannister, dump the old carbon, replace with new, fresh, rinsed, activated granulated carbon, replace the filter pad on the bottom and re-seal the whole thing.

Does the canister unscrew?

Or is it sealed shut?

Any advice or comments are appreciated (mostly).

 

 

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I thought I would do just that to mine but could not find an easy way of getting into it without causing some damage,  I didn't have a second one if I screwed up the first so I left it.  If I was going to do it I think I would run a hacksaw blade around the center of the cylinder that is normally covered by the holder, after the replacement of the filter and carbon glue/plastic weld it back together.

Edited by grannyknot

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I'm going to use one in my 510 build this time around, I'll take it apart to clean it and let you know what I find.

No doubt someone on amazon and or ebay has activated charcoal for sale.

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I found this video on the intrawebs that shows a screwbottom canister for MGBs.....

A threaded screw on / off cap on the bottom would sure make it much easier to refresh the carbon.

I'll be swapping out the fuel & air filter and spark plugs this weekend, will take a look at the canister too while I'm at it and see what I can figure out.

grannyknot: yes I agree, not comfortable taking it apart unless I have an extra replacement on hand in case I mess it up. Found another video where a guy completely trashed his canister. And yes, granulated carbon for aquariums is pretty cheap on ebay.

zKars: yes, please let me know what you find and if you need a referral for carbon I can look something up.

 

 

Edited by mbz

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