Patcon

So NLA???? Trying to get more RPM is an interesting idea, but with a somewhat poorly flowing head might not be worth it. But as they eliminate zinc in the oil, rollers might be nice...

Any other info? Source?

There is no liquid in the overflow tube except when the radiator is very full and the liquid expands. It merely directs the liquid to the ground. I won't effect the driveability of the car. On later cars it goes into a bottle and then pulled back by vacuum when the liquid cools.

Yes this too! Don't sand with out cleaning the car very well. Use a wax and grease remover after washing the car twice. Then you can sand, otherwise you grind wax and other contaminates down into the paint

Does it route across the front of the engine from the alternator?

No, that's a good start! So it goes down under the battery, then where? Under the radiator? Then across to the coil?

2 very good Z brothers are close to you!

Just general layout. Right now his harness comes up the passenger side and across the front but it doesn't seem long enough. So somehow we have it routed wrong. A diagram or some pictures would help a lot... I have looked on Google images some but most of those 510's seem to be modified or you can't see the layout.

One is on each side of the windshield near the bottom. The other two are near the upper corners of the hatch, above the quarter glass where the factory roof seams are

Bump

Venturi effect...

I believe you could check the seats with a magnet...

Be sure and check the lead joints at the roof really well. There can be little cracks there that show up in the paint later. Be careful that is real lead there and at the bottom of the windshield. Sanding it can be hazardous! You don't want lead poisoning!

What paint are you using. SStage or 2Stage, solid color or metal flake? The more coats you stack then the more likely you will have problems at this joint. If you are doing a solid paint then there is no real harm in painting the pieces separately, as long as they get the same amount of coats and reasonably the same coating thickness. If you are doing a metallic then I recommend painting the whole car assembled. It makes it less likely to "tiger stripe" and it means the flake will lay similarly from panel to panel. If you were to paint the sugar scoops off the car with metallic and the flake doesn't lay the same, then they could appear to be different colors. Also when you paint the parts separately you are using a different portion of the paint in the cup on adjacent parts. If you don't keep the gun agitated enough the mix will be a little different from the top of the cup to the bottom, which will throw the color off. You could also loosen the sugar scoop bolts as much as possible and space them off the fenders so the paint can shoot down between the parts for a little better coverage...

Greencastle, PA if his info is correct

Good results. I think the beads I am currently using dry are about half that size If you're gonna insist on using that thing in the snow you are gonna need to add a heater... .

I agree, I wouldn't delete anything. The old pickup is probably redundant but you may end up wanting all the vapor points. You also need to be careful you have a known, functioning way to allow air to enter the tank not leave. If you run the tank with too much vacuum it will collapse. Not an issue with carbs at 3 psi but with EFI with high pressure it can happen. I suspect that is one reason the later tanks are much thicker. It looks like he cut the tank just about the tank flange

Pretty car. Snow on the ground in Spokane????

Ouch!

Look forward to the review

Very nice! What are the dimensions of the main grid? How large is the entry door? I was looking a building a new blasting cabinet that would take larger items. Lots of good ideas here...

That's too bad. From the first video it looked like there was no room for error...

Those look good. Very unusual to see parts that nice from retailers

That's too bad, but good to know...

@Captain Obvious Why????