Patcon

When I googled Malvern racing I ended up with a bunch of hits on a motocross venue...

There's no gasket there. The filler neck has a flange on it that seats against the body and is held down by the lock ring. The rubber flap goes on top of the filler neck flange and under the lock ring I believe. Are the lock ring screws tight? If they are you might need to add a sealant under the rubber flap to the filler neck flange. Or the flange could be cracked...

Good to know. I paid about that for commercial oil plus shipping.

@NVZEE Success!!! Thanks for your help!!!

That patina brings big money at the auction, especially dust!

Ok, I am working on getting the headliner installed while I can still rotate the car upside down. I bought a new headliner from MSA and it looks much better than any of the others I had. Since I'm an idiot, I threw away the other ones before I compared them for size! So, do I need to trim the MSA headliner some. Do I tuck all the extra in to the ceiling, which seems really difficult from my experiments? How much should extend under the flange? Need some input here...

Who was the buyer? I assume he is going to part out a lot of it. Might be nice to find out who to inquire of for parts...

Best way to go at that is just buy a whole front clip from the South West and replace from the firewall up. How is the rest of the car?

Excellent, Cody is gonna go work on it now..

So NLA???? Trying to get more RPM is an interesting idea, but with a somewhat poorly flowing head might not be worth it. But as they eliminate zinc in the oil, rollers might be nice...

Any other info? Source?

There is no liquid in the overflow tube except when the radiator is very full and the liquid expands. It merely directs the liquid to the ground. I won't effect the driveability of the car. On later cars it goes into a bottle and then pulled back by vacuum when the liquid cools.

Yes this too! Don't sand with out cleaning the car very well. Use a wax and grease remover after washing the car twice. Then you can sand, otherwise you grind wax and other contaminates down into the paint

Does it route across the front of the engine from the alternator?

No, that's a good start! So it goes down under the battery, then where? Under the radiator? Then across to the coil?

2 very good Z brothers are close to you!

Just general layout. Right now his harness comes up the passenger side and across the front but it doesn't seem long enough. So somehow we have it routed wrong. A diagram or some pictures would help a lot... I have looked on Google images some but most of those 510's seem to be modified or you can't see the layout.

One is on each side of the windshield near the bottom. The other two are near the upper corners of the hatch, above the quarter glass where the factory roof seams are

Bump

Venturi effect...

I believe you could check the seats with a magnet...

Be sure and check the lead joints at the roof really well. There can be little cracks there that show up in the paint later. Be careful that is real lead there and at the bottom of the windshield. Sanding it can be hazardous! You don't want lead poisoning!

What paint are you using. SStage or 2Stage, solid color or metal flake? The more coats you stack then the more likely you will have problems at this joint. If you are doing a solid paint then there is no real harm in painting the pieces separately, as long as they get the same amount of coats and reasonably the same coating thickness. If you are doing a metallic then I recommend painting the whole car assembled. It makes it less likely to "tiger stripe" and it means the flake will lay similarly from panel to panel. If you were to paint the sugar scoops off the car with metallic and the flake doesn't lay the same, then they could appear to be different colors. Also when you paint the parts separately you are using a different portion of the paint in the cup on adjacent parts. If you don't keep the gun agitated enough the mix will be a little different from the top of the cup to the bottom, which will throw the color off. You could also loosen the sugar scoop bolts as much as possible and space them off the fenders so the paint can shoot down between the parts for a little better coverage...

Greencastle, PA if his info is correct

Good results. I think the beads I am currently using dry are about half that size If you're gonna insist on using that thing in the snow you are gonna need to add a heater... .